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I liked the scout saginaw conversion. Lots of work but more torque for bigger tires. The regular Saginaw conversion can easily be done right. There are several good "kits" with the right scab plates and the 3" tube to sleeve the hole you cut into the crossmember.

I just made my own plate for the frame using 1/4" plate and a cutoff wheel, cut some 1" holes in the frame where the bolts for the scout box go and sleeved em with 1" OD/5/8" ID DOM, with an extra 3/4" protruding past the frame for proper clearance. Buy a 3/4" ID carrier bearing to slide over your stock steering shaft at the firewall. Find an appropriate-length intermediate shaft with 3/4" OD on each end (mine came out of a 90 4Runner). You'll need one 3/4" steering joint with smooth bore on both ends and one 3/4" smooth bore/13/16"-36 spline combo steering joint to fit the scout box. Knock the "nipple" off the end of the splined output on the scout box with an angle grinder. Get a straight steering arm off of an older jeep wagoneer. Cut and sleeve your stock drag link with the scout drag link you should also find, or buy one that's the correct length with the right ends on it. Use the $12 Ford shock towers so you can run longer shocks, notch your inner fenderwell as necessary.

Did I miss anything?
 
Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a good kit to do the Saginaw steering the proper way... made my life easier doing it myself.
 

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