ps door stuck on fj62

[Cantinero]

When I bought my 62 a few months ago I knew the passenger side door wouldn't open. The PO said his "girlfriend slammed it in the heat of an argument and from that point on it never opened again". Angry women and doors don't mix...

Anyway he had removed the key lock by prying it out it looks like, and from the looks of it he has used a pry bar on the inside of the vehicle as well. I removed the front seat and was able to get the inner door panel off so I could see what is going on. It has PDL and they work as I can see the lock linkage move, also it is missing the linkage for the interior manual door lock. The door handle linkage works as well and it all moves, but the door won't open. I am ready to get a door shell and take a cutting wheel to the exisiting door to get at the hinges and the lock mechanisim. Does anyone have a suggestion or is someone familiar with body work and what to do in this situation?

 

[chitown40]

Might want to try removing the interior panel to gain access to the latch mechanism. You can use an air chisel to chip away at the nader bolt (u-shaoed thing holding the door closed). Hopefully then you can figure out what's hanging up and the pin is a relatively cheap replacement.

 

[Cantinero]

I had removed the panel and I could see the lock mechanisim, but I could not see the latch part of it that you are talking about. There is also not a whole lot of room in there with the PW and such. I will look again in a couple of days when I replace my inner door panels, but I didn't see it before.

 

[jalmag]

I had a similar problem on mine, the door was locked and would not open from either side. Once I removed the inner pannel I and the lock I was able to actuate by hand the door latch mech. and open the door. If you have seen one before you can see how it operates it's quite simple, I know not everyone has a spare. If you stick your had in there you will feel some levers one of them will unlatch the mech. and open the door.
Hope this helps.

Jesse A.

 

[Cantinero]

I had a similar problem on mine, the door was locked and would not open from either side. Once I removed the inner pannel I and the lock I was able to actuate by hand the door latch mech. and open the door. If you have seen one before you can see how it operates it's quite simple, I know not everyone has a spare. If you stick your had in there you will feel some levers one of them will unlatch the mech. and open the door.
Hope this helps.

Jesse A.

Yeah, that was the first thing I checked was the child lock safety feature on the door lock and I manually moved the levers and tried the handles. The levers move to the lock and unlock position with the PDL button as well. All of the linkage also works when you pull the door release handles. I can physically see it move on the lock mechanisim as well (both the outside & inside handles). There is no reason that I can see as to why this door should not open from a mechanical standpoint. In our club forum there is thought that in the process of the PO trying to pry the door open that he may have jammed the locks hasp w/ the nader bolt. Therfore the hasp can't release because it has the nader bolt wedged into it. I haven't confirmed yet if I can actually see the nader bolt through one of the access panels in the inner door skin or not yet. I don't think you can by the way the lock mechanisim sits, but I am going to look into that shortly. Any and all thoughts are welcomed. If push comes to shove I am going to take a cutting wheel to the front part of the door where the hinges are and cut it away so I can get at the hinge bolts. Second is to cut enough of the back of the door by the latch to get it to move out of the way so I can get to the nader bolt. Door is free of the body and I replace the parts I need.

 

[chitown40]

Ok, I just went outside and pulled the trim panel off the "B" pillar to take a look. Pull off the trim from the "B" post and look into the access hole for the nader pin. It should be a U-shaped pin held in with two bolts. Before you cut anything, see if you can get a sawzall or air chisel through the access panel and cut off the nuts that hold in the nader. Should be a lot cheaper fix than cutting the door skin away, unless your is already mangled enough that it warrants replacement anyway. Take alook and go from there.

 

[polarweasel]

I assume you've also tried unlatching and then shouldering it open? My Subaru got smashed in a parking lot a while ago, and that's how I had to get out...

 

[Cantinero]

I assume you've also tried unlatching and then shouldering it open? My Subaru got smashed in a parking lot a while ago, and that's how I had to get out...

Yeah, I have laid all 240lbs of my shoulder into it and it won't budge. I also can see where the po took a pry bar to it on the inside and bent the pillar trim and the door a little trying to pry it open.

Ok, I just went outside and pulled the trim panel off the "B" pillar to take a look. Pull off the trim from the "B" post and look into the access hole for the nader pin. It should be a U-shaped pin held in with two bolts. Before you cut anything, see if you can get a sawzall or air chisel through the access panel and cut off the nuts that hold in the nader. Should be a lot cheaper fix than cutting the door skin away, unless your is already mangled enough that it warrants replacement anyway. Take alook and go from there.

OK, I see where you are going with this now. I cut the bolts that stick through the pillar from the inside; but then how do I go about backing the rest of it out that is still holding the nader on. I am pretty sure I can't get a drill in there straight enough to drill them out and put a screw remover in them to back them out. Also I don't know how much clearence I will have between the door and the pillar unit for the screw head and the remaining threads to back out into with the door being stuck in the closed position. It all sounds great so far except for the part of getting the rest of the bolt out of the hole. Any additional ideas on this?