Pros and Cons of Aftermarket Lockers (Is There a Risk?)

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Joined
Apr 12, 2024
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Location
Pennsylvania
Hi All,

I’m thinking about adding front and rear Harrop e-lockors to my 2018 LC 200, but just can’t decide if the benefits outweigh the potential compromise to reliability. (I’ve read several posts on this forum about the potential benefits, which are encouraging, but I’d like to know if anyone can offer words of caution).

The Landcruiser is our family overland car— it’s a daily driver when the kids are in school —but during the summer we road trip from Pennsylvania out to the Colorado Plateau, Pacific Northwest, and up into Alaska.

As many people have already pointed out on this forum, ATRAC will get you through maybe 90% of the terrain that looks like it might need lockers, but there will be a lot more wheel spin, braking, shaking, and jerking. Every once in a while I found myself on an impossibly narrow and slanted logging or mesa shelf road, sometimes towing our off-road trailer — and prayed for the static security of a locker. (Our previous overland vehicle was 2016 4runner with a factory rear locker and I’ve been glad to have it in situations like these.)

On the other hand, I’m concerned about compromising the longevity and reliability of the vehicle. I realize that any mod adds complexity, which increases the chance of mechanical failure, but here I’m especially concerned about the possibility of something major like driveline failure. And then of course there’s the possibility of user error -- how how easy would it be to snap an axle because I accidentally locked a front differential on Utah slick rock that I though was sand?

I’d be grateful for any words of advice. Thanks!

PS I’d order the prebuilt locker + differential 3rd member from Cruiser Outfitters,
 
The only down side is cost.

If a locker fails.. it just doesn't lock up, so then you are back to a stock situation.

Now.. 2016+ you can put the locker in the rear without changing gears, but a locker will not fit in the front without new thin gears.

That is if you want a locker in the front your will need gears and lockers front and rear on 2016+.

Just a rear locker does make a big difference.

I run ARB air lockers front and rear (I used to get an ARB discount) but I believe the e-locker is more reliable,
 
here from a few days ago
 
Anything you add increases complexity and yes, can break.
If you want to add lockers, I'll start with e-locker rear only and see if you need more before spending more money. That introduces the least complexity and in worse case you'll be back to having no locker.
 
IMHO front locker is more trouble than it’s worth. Rear locker is worth every red cent. We have needed ours a bunch and it’s impressive what they bring to the table in those few seconds of engagement. It probably won’t seem like a worthwhile purchase until you’re having trouble clearing an obstacle and remember it’s there.
 
The biggest risk is to your CV axles from bouncing when the front is locked.

If you don't bounce or have the wheels aggressively turned when locked and under throttle, you'll be fine.

Eaton makes most of the OEM lockers, is my understanding. They are very reliable but not as durable under extreme conditions as an ARB.

If you're moving to larger tires and need to regear anyway, the decision is much easier. 🙂I love mine and don't regret it one bit (well, maybe the initial cost. 😂)

#lockersbeforelightbars #greenmeansgo

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Eaton all the way.
 
Ive had ARB air lockers in my 100s front diff since 1998. Front and rear on my Land Rover Disco 2 since 2000. Zero issues.
 
There’s a long discussion on some of the topic in the FAQs.

 
A rear LSD (Torsen or helical style) would likely work well with ATRAC as the brake engagement would help bias the LSD and get it to "bite". Reliability should not be impacted whatsoever with a traditional LSD, and certainly not a geared one (rather than a clutched version).
 
The Toyota gear expert that goes by Zuk stopped installing ARBs due to quality control and reliability issues over the years, even though they are widely regarded as the toughest option out there. To me that is a pretty damning development.

Then the e-lockers aren’t perfect either.. someone posted pictures of theirs having failed in a big way, with other evidence of inadequate design (the pins gouging into the ramps well before that failure). This on top of the edge case issue that they must rotate some amount before being locked.. which can really impact transitioning from forward to rearward movement on a bad obstacle.

I just wish retrofitting factory Toyota fork-actuated lockers was a reasonable option for us.
 
I've got Eatons front and rear, no issues, no drama. It was actually easy to wire up myself and I'm not a wiring guy at all. Instructions are good! A reputable local gear guy did the install (along with 4.88) of the actual locker, then I ran the wires.

I've had e-locked axles in I think four different rigs now? Some very high milage. Never had a single reliability issue, I never had one fail to lock up. As mentioned, worst case they just wont lock up, not like they're going to leave you somewhere. As long as you exercise a pinch of good judgement, the 200 axles and diffs are plenty strong to handle the extra load. 200 drivetrain is mega-beef compared to most other rigs on the trail. Just ease up if the truck starts to bounce or jerk.

My ARB's were finnicky in my FJ62 and I did have to troubleshoot some air leaks., and sometimes had trouble engaging even when air supply was good. Might be an install issue (PO installed them), but my general experience is that electronic lockers are just more reliable and simpler to use.
 
I did a rear elocker with my ratio change. Not sure I’d spend the money on just a locker if wasn’t changing ratio too. Love the ratio change, use that everyday and it kept my pretty well built rig trim and lively to drive thru all the mods.

I’ve never pined for a front, but I don’t do a bunch of rock crawling. If I did I’d probably buy an old swb wrangler for that. Or a samurai.
 
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