- Thread starter
- #61
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Builds Project ToyLET (PICS)
- Thread starter 4alarm
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looking good man!!
- Thread starter
- #63
Haven't been able to do much. Tie rod and drag link came in from Parts Mike, but the drag link was cut too short. Mike is sending me another one. I need to find another pitman arm because the tre's are too big. If I enlarge the hole there won't be much metal left. Got the t-case mounted yesterday. I had to cut the center frame x-member and cut out a bit of the floor pan. There is not much room between the output on the t-case and the pinion on the 14-bolt. Looks like I may just go ahead with the rear 4-link now to get the axle further back.
looks good man, keep up with the pics
Looks good Bro!
Aren't those steel shims? I bought some of those once and they are real thick like those.
That is good though, if you must use shims, steel is the only way. Aluminum would be munched in no time.
Keep the pics rolling!
Aren't those steel shims? I bought some of those once and they are real thick like those.
That is good though, if you must use shims, steel is the only way. Aluminum would be munched in no time.
Keep the pics rolling!
- Thread starter
- #66
Unfortunatly they are aluminum. I'll probably look at getting some steel shims if I don't 4-link it first.
just wanna tag along on a sweet build!!
- Thread starter
- #68
I got my rear disk brake brackets from Sky-Manufacturing, but they sent grade 5 bolts to connect the brackets to the axle housing. I ran around to all the local hardware stores gathering up as many grade 8 bolts that I could get my hands on but ended up 3 short. When I went to install one of the brackets I found that Sky had drilled the mounting holes wrong. Only one bolt would fit at a time. I've decided to just weld them in place after I get some new calipers with an e-brake.
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- Thread starter
- #69
I started pulling apart the rear end to get the disk brake brackets on, the longer wheel studs installed, and move the axle back as far as possible. I was going to try and reuse the rear shackle hangers, but I think it would just be easier to get some new ones. The plan is to weld some 63" chevy spring hangers for the front of the rear springs back about 8" - 8.5" and weld some new shackle hangers to the back of the bumper.
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- Thread starter
- #70
I finished up the steering last Monday thanks to a friend for finding the nut that holds the pitman arm on. It's a good thing I went with the extra tall high steer arms and a flat pitman arm, otherwise I don't think the tie rod and drag link would have cleared the springs. The only issue with the steering now is that the steering shaft is rubbing on the frame. It just barely touches so I think I'll just grind a little off the corner of the frame.
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- Thread starter
- #71
I ordered some spring/shackle brackets from Ballistic Fabrication (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/). They made some custom shackle hangers for me. Even with my crappy drawing they nailed it. It took me all day to weld all the pieces together. Most of the problem was that I don't have any magnets to help hold the pieces in place while I tack weld them together, so I had to get creative with c-clamps and scrap metal. 
I got all the brackets fully welded and grinded smooth.
Shackle hanger pieces:
Spring hanger pieces (63" chevy brackets):
Tube and sides tacked:
I got all the brackets fully welded and grinded smooth.
Shackle hanger pieces:
Spring hanger pieces (63" chevy brackets):
Tube and sides tacked:
- Thread starter
- #72
Bottom tacked:
Shackle hangers complete:
Spring hangers complete:
Shackle hangers complete:
Spring hangers complete:
- Thread starter
- #73
Bushings installed:
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- #74
I got the spring/shackle hangers installed. I'll still need to make gussets for the spring hanger side. But other than that It's ready to go back together. The shackle hanger was moved back 7.5" and the spring hanger was moved back 9 1/4". That gives me a total of 9 1/4" of added wheelbase. Why 9 1/4"? Because I was going to go with 9" to correct the shackle angle, but the factory mount was in the way, so at 9 1/4" the new mount butts up against the old mount until I can cut it off.
- Thread starter
- #75
Not sure if anyone is still following this thread but....
Got some garage time this weekend and yesterday. It's finally back on all four tires. I got the spring hangers gusseted, new shackles made, and got the axle centered up under the truck. I set my pinion angle by pointing it up directly at the t-case output but Tice stopped by and said I did it wrong, so I guess I'll have to put an angle finder on it and set it again. I'd work a LOT faster with a plasma cutter (anyone got one for sale?). I had to cut out all my pieces from a left over sheet of 1/4" plate with cut-off wheels in my 4.5" angle grinder. I ran out of cut-off wheels on Sunday so I had to stop for the day (ran around town trying to find more but Home Depot was out and everyone else was closed). I was at my brother in-laws house to pickup my drill press and saw that he was using 5" cut-off disks in his 4.5" angle grinder. He said it worked fine, so I picked up a hand full at Home Depot yesterday. They worked great.
I went with a little longer shackle. Factory shackles were ~2 3/4" eye to eye. I made the new ones 4" eye to eye.
Gusseted:
Home made shackles and new hardware:
Mounted (no load):
Got some garage time this weekend and yesterday. It's finally back on all four tires. I got the spring hangers gusseted, new shackles made, and got the axle centered up under the truck. I set my pinion angle by pointing it up directly at the t-case output but Tice stopped by and said I did it wrong, so I guess I'll have to put an angle finder on it and set it again. I'd work a LOT faster with a plasma cutter (anyone got one for sale?). I had to cut out all my pieces from a left over sheet of 1/4" plate with cut-off wheels in my 4.5" angle grinder. I ran out of cut-off wheels on Sunday so I had to stop for the day (ran around town trying to find more but Home Depot was out and everyone else was closed). I was at my brother in-laws house to pickup my drill press and saw that he was using 5" cut-off disks in his 4.5" angle grinder. He said it worked fine, so I picked up a hand full at Home Depot yesterday. They worked great.
I went with a little longer shackle. Factory shackles were ~2 3/4" eye to eye. I made the new ones 4" eye to eye.
Gusseted:
Home made shackles and new hardware:
Mounted (no load):
- Thread starter
- #76
Looks like I have a pretty good departure angle:
Kinda funky looking with all the space in front of the wheel:
From the back:
Kinda funky looking with all the space in front of the wheel:
From the back:
- Thread starter
- #77
Right side:
Left side:
I got tired of seeing the engine compartment and seeing the hood in the back so while I was cleaning up for the day I decided to slap the hood back on. It looks a little like an FJ40 again:
Left side:
I got tired of seeing the engine compartment and seeing the hood in the back so while I was cleaning up for the day I decided to slap the hood back on. It looks a little like an FJ40 again:
- Thread starter
- #78
A side shot just for fun:
- Thread starter
- #79
One problem I did find is that the passenger side (rear) is about 1" lower than the drivers side. I took several measurements from the ground to the axle and springs and can't find any variances. The only numbers that came up different was from spring eye to spring eye. The passenger side spring seems to have sagged slightly. It's only 1/8" longer than the drivers side. I wouldn't think that would equate to 1" ride height difference. I'm thinking the frame might be tweaked.
Whith those axle's and wheels, it looks HOT HOT HOT!!
Keep it up!
Keep it up!