Project "Rubicon or Bust!"

[JeepinPete]

Thanks. But what do I have to lose? Can't do much worse than the rust already has

So I was dragging all day today. This desk jockey is plain worn out from a week + of physical labor. Anyway, got the body lift install. Only damage was an O2 sensor wire that didn't want to stretch. I still have all of the ancillary work to take care of, the drivetrain lift and exhaust replacement being top of that list.

I did the drivetrain lift in the '95, and it makes the body lift process much simpler. It also works really well with the 3" BL. I simply made standoffs out of 2x4 tubing that go between the motor mounts and the frame horns, and between trans mount and cross member. Doing it this way add a bit of rake to the drivetrain. This is because the motor mounts are sitting at a 45* angle, so the 2" height of the tubing nets you 2.8" engine lift. With the additional suspension lift this time around, I am curious if I will run into driveshaft problems.

So here is where I ended up today:

For reference, Josh is about 5'10" these days.

 

[JeepinPete]

Been picking away over the last week. A little work on the front bumper, a little work on the truck, etc. Today I got a few hours after dinner to start tearing into the engine. Got the easy stuff: crankshaft seal, oil pump cover o-ring, distributor o-ring, bypass o-rings, thermostat, radiator hoses, some of the bypass hoses, pcv hose, and the vent hose. Every piece of rubber is baked, hard as a rock. The pcv hose snapped in half like a pretzel stick.

I tried the starter trick to loosening the crank bolt. This is the result:

Then I tried the Makita impact that I bought myself for my birthday, and it took it right out.

Finally, got the other quarter panel chopped. This one is going to be more of a pain in the arse since the rust has traveled further up the seam. I need to pull the flare and see just how far it goes.

I'm torn with just how deep I want to go into the engine. The intake is coming off. The exhaust is coming off to get to the oil cooler. Going to pop the valve cover to replace the seals. At that point I am only a few hours from having the head off. I purchase a valve grind gasket set, so the gasket is sitting here. But in the short time I have had the truck, I have seen no indication of head gasket issues. Murphy being what he is, I know it will pop shortly after I get everything together

 

[jamarquardt22]

Personally I wouldn't want to go that deep without a known problem to fix. There is always a chance you create a problem.

 

[JeepinPete]

So I did decide not to bother with the head gasket now. Since Toyota used reusable gaskets, its not like out would be out anything if I have to tear it down in the future.

Been chippin away. Valve cover and tube seals replaced. 2 meter of vacuum line cut to pieces and installed. Ran out, ordered more.

Replacing all heater hoses, got the PHH and throttle body hose last night. Replaced all of the short sections around the heater core. I have never seen so many short lengths of hose in a vehicle before. The hoses at the heater core were leaking, and the PHH was bulged and hard as a rock, like most of the hoses. Funny, some of the vacuum hoses turned to the consistency of taffy, while other turned into rocks.

Replaced the PS pressure hose and return hose. The paper clip is being replaced, so I need to make up some mounts for the derale cooler.

Also got the mounting brackets welded to the bumper. Here is is bolted in place. Still quite a bit of work to do to it:

 

[Crusha]

Killing it, Pete!

 

[JeepinPete]

So today I tackled a couple small things while I wait for parts. First up was mounting up the new PS cooler. The paper clip was crusty, and I have already experienced the joy of one popping on the trail in NH. Copied an idea I saw on the forum and modified the factory brackets to hold the Derale cooler in front of the trans cooler.

The next task was lifting the drivetrain. This fought me tooth and nail, but the spacers are installed under the motor mounts. I want to remake the transmission mount spacer, but didn't have time to do so today. Now I can reinstall the radiator and start putting the cooling system back together.

The exhaust pipes had to be cut to lift the drivetrain, which I didn't have to do with the '95 exhaust. I was going to swap the Magnaflow y-pipe into the truck, but there seems to be a mile of room inside the frame rail for the exhaust. I think I am going to fab up some new pipes.

Next round of hoses should be here in a day or two. With that I can commence getting the engine compartment back together.

 

[JeepinPete]

Vacuum hose arrived, so that job is now done. Intake manifold is back together, radiator is back in. I'll probably swap the exhaust this weekend, maybe swap the transfer case and driveshafts, and get the interior back together. If not, then another time

 

[JeepinPete]

Getting closer. Engine compartment is about buttoned up, at least all of the tedious stuff.

Got ahead of myself and installed the radiator et al before tightening the crank bolt (had to pick up a higher rated torque wrench). Now the deep socket with adapter will not fit between the shroud and bolt. Standard socket is on route.

Noticed that I had not fully tightened up the valve cover bolts. No big deal right? Ya, first one I tighten, the head snaps off. So off came the throttle body, wires, hoses, etc to get to all of the VC bolts so I could remove it to remove the broken bolt. Not a big deal in the end, but damn annoying at the time.

Exhaust is pulled out, and the Magnaflow y-pipe installed. Note to anyone using the Magnaflow piece. Replace the O2 sensor hardware with SS. They are mild steel from the factory, and after six years look like this:

No big deal in my case since this is going on a '93. Found a flanged bolt to weld in the hole. O2 sponsors are going in the manifolds.

So by the end of the month, this thing should be back together. There will still be plenty to do, but at least I should be able to drive it again.

 

[Cass007]

I feel you on the valve cover bolt Pete, been there and did the same thing.

You are crushing all this work. Looking great.

 

[JeepinPete]

Had a productive day today. Engine compartment is about buttoned up. I need to install the belts, and fill it with coolant.

Exhaust is a work in process. The magnaflow pipe and muffler are now installed. The muffler needed a bracket made up and welded, and this morning was the perfect weather for that. Debating whether to remake the tailpipe. I'd like to route it completely over the frame, but I'd also just like to be done. Probably go with what I got and tackle that another time.

The rest of the odds and ends done today:

torque crank bolt
tighten motor and trans mounts
replace fuel filter
replace oil level sensor gasket
install starter
repin O2 sensor (installing '95 sensor in the '93)
install O2 sensors in manifolds
drill out broken bolt for air cleaner box
install air cleaner box

So maiden drive should be sometime this week

 

[JeepinPete]

Milestone reached last night. It started up Still have a few things to do before its first road test, ie waiting on exhaust gaskets that I somehow forgot to order previously.

One of the idiosyncrasies of doing a body lift on one of these trucks is dealing with the steering shaft. Since the steering ujoint at the steering column is inside the body tub, the shaft moves when the body is lifted. On the '95, I ground down the firewall plate and left it at that. Never did have the seal. Wanted to do better this time around. I was reminded why I took the easy way out last time

First off, access under the dash isn't great. Second, to do it right, the firewall plate has to be modified. What I found was the mounting points for the seal need to move down roughly 1/2". The firewall plate is formed sheet, so it isn't as simple as drilling new holes. I ended up cutting out the portion that mounts the seal, moving it down the required amount, then welding it back together. I still need to fill in the top gap, but for now it is installed with duct tape standing in for steel . Once the test drive is successful, I will pull it out again and finish the job.

Sunday looks like the day. Finish installing the exhaust and install the belts. That should get it on the road.

 

[JeepinPete]

So today did not start well. I got up before anyone else, decided to get the exhaust gaskets in, but the main belts back on and fire up the truck. Did that with no issue. Started up the truck and let is run for awhile, trying to get the thermostat to open so I could top off the coolant.

That is about when the engine started knocking. WTF was the main thing going on in my head. This engine did not make any weird noises before I started this work, and now this.

So after a cup of coffee, and whining to my wife, I decided to take the belts off and fired the truck up again. No knocking. WTH? I started the truck up three separate times today without the belts, and not a single peep. Of course I cannot run it long that way, so who knows. But I cannot see how a water pump, idler pulley, or alternator can make a rod knock sound like I was certain I was hearing this morning.

Wish me luck tomorrow morning, its going for a test drive one way or another

 

[YotaFun]

But I cannot see how a water pump, idler pulley, or alternator can make a rod knock sound like I was certain I was hearing this morning.

From personal experiences I've had a few failed water pumps and belt tensioners resemble a rod knock. Don't count them out just yet!

 

[JeepinPete]

Found the source of my knocking. When I installed the fan, I did not want to tighten the fan belts until I had torqued the crank bolt. End result, the fan nuts were only finger tight. Tightened them up, knock is gone. I am still a bit shocked at how much noise that made, and how much it sounded like a rod knock.

Clean everything up to take it for a ride, hope in, hit the brakes, and the pedal goes half way to the floor. Drive down the driveway and slam the brakes, and the rear tires lock up. Hop out and search around, a short hard line on the PS has burst, rusted out from the looks of it. Fortunately the same line on the '95 is in perfect shape. So I guess I will add bleeding the brakes to the list before the test drive

 

[JeepinPete]

Well, the truck seems to be ready to go. Took it out on a few drives today, and other than feeling a bit underpowered, all went well. I adjusted the timing to 7*, and power was much better. Going to drive it to work tomorrow, then make an appointment for its inspection.

 

[JeepinPete]

Yesterday was the first trail ride after all of the work. By and large I am pleased with how it worked. The ride did turn up a couple things on top of the things I knew needed to be done.

I'll start with the positives. The 2" suspension lift and 3" body lift worked really well together. With just the 3" BL I had on the '95, I had a fair amount of tire rub. I can only recall one rub yesterday, and that was at the frame twister section at the far end of RC. Kind of expected it there. The additional travel also made for a weird feeling in the truck. The '95 would have followed the front end, end of story. But at one point I could feel the axles going in opposite twists, but the body remained more or less flat.

Having an exhaust that doesn't leak: A+. No matter what I tried on the '95, the leaks would come back. Probably jinxing myself, but after 500 miles, one the same exhaust component that were in the '95, it hasn't started leaking yet.

Working AC, kinda of. The AC in this truck worked when I bought it, and still does. It will freeze you out so long as you are moving. But it doesn't do so well sitting, or creeping along. Maybe something to play with in the future.

Now for the not so good. There is something amiss with the engine, either fueling or ignition. Power does not increase in a linear fashion with pedal travel. It is kind of like an on off switch at 75% throttle. Also had a couple instances where it felt like it was missing on the ride home. Not a hard miss, just a slight buck.

Engine idle. This relates to the AC too. If we were sitting with the AC on, the truck would act normal for a bit, then it would start vibrating hard. Idle was 800rpm. The idle speed would start to decrease, the vibration would get harder, and would decrease to 400 rpm. I usually shut off the AC after a bit. This truck has always idled at low speeds at times.

I had no locked differentials for yesterday's run. This will be fixed once I swap the transfer case with the 3/1 gears in it, as the actuator on the transfer case in the truck does not work, which then prevents the axle lockers from not working.

Driveline vibration. I definitely felt a ujoint vibe on the way home yesterday. Right around 55mph indicated (65ish). Seemed to go away at higher and lower speed. Going to swap driveshafts when we do the transfer case since they have relatively fresh ujoints and go from there.

If/when I get the engine running right, this truck is going to be a nice 80 for a few years.

 

[shmukster]

Yesterday was the first trail ride after all of the work. By and large I am pleased with how it worked. The ride did turn up a couple things on top of the things I knew needed to be done.

I'll start with the positives. The 2" suspension lift and 3" body lift worked really well together. With just the 3" BL I had on the '95, I had a fair amount of tire rub. I can only recall one rub yesterday, and that was at the frame twister section at the far end of RC. Kind of expected it there. The additional travel also made for a weird feeling in the truck. The '95 would have followed the front end, end of story. But at one point I could feel the axles going in opposite twists, but the body remained more or less flat.

Having an exhaust that doesn't leak: A+. No matter what I tried on the '95, the leaks would come back. Probably jinxing myself, but after 500 miles, one the same exhaust component that were in the '95, it hasn't started leaking yet.

Working AC, kinda of. The AC in this truck worked when I bought it, and still does. It will freeze you out so long as you are moving. But it doesn't do so well sitting, or creeping along. Maybe something to play with in the future.

Now for the not so good. There is something amiss with the engine, either fueling or ignition. Power does not increase in a linear fashion with pedal travel. It is kind of like an on off switch at 75% throttle. Also had a couple instances where it felt like it was missing on the ride home. Not a hard miss, just a slight buck.

Engine idle. This relates to the AC too. If we were sitting with the AC on, the truck would act normal for a bit, then it would start vibrating hard. Idle was 800rpm. The idle speed would start to decrease, the vibration would get harder, and would decrease to 400 rpm. I usually shut off the AC after a bit. This truck has always idled at low speeds at times.

I had no locked differentials for yesterday's run. This will be fixed once I swap the transfer case with the 3/1 gears in it, as the actuator on the transfer case in the truck does not work, which then prevents the axle lockers from not working.

Driveline vibration. I definitely felt a ujoint vibe on the way home yesterday. Right around 55mph indicated (65ish). Seemed to go away at higher and lower speed. Going to swap driveshafts when we do the transfer case since they have relatively fresh ujoints and go from there.

If/when I get the engine running right, this truck is going to be a nice 80 for a few years.

Sure looked good and ran the trails effortlessly!!!!!

 

[Pacer]

Was good meeting you and your Son Pete, I had not been following your thread very closely and had not realized this was your '93s debut. Great work out there on Saturday!

 

[JeepinPete]

Thanks guys.

So it turns out the majority of my drivability/power issues are due to the O2 sensors. I've been monkeying around with TPS adjustments, replacement intake hoses, bypassing EGR, etc. Last night I decided to unplug the O2 sensors and take it for a spin. Bingo. Power delivery is much more linear, I can actually drive up a hill without dropping to 2nd. I'll have to order up a set, but for now I will just run it with them unplugged.

Good time to find this out too. I sold my Chevy Volt this weekend. Six years and 116k miles on that one without a single issue. Decided to move on before it gave me an issue So now the ole 80 is my daily driver. Got to get some quieter tires installed, the worn out KM2 are LOUD!

 

[JeepinPete]

This truck makes the oddest sounds...

I've been tinkering with cars for 30+ years now. I've owned 40 or so vehicles. I've had nearly every kind of part failure there is. But this truck, it doesn't play by the rules. Like the rod knock noise it had earlier this year. And this week, a god awful PS pump / transmission pump whine that came out of nowhere. Loud, sounded like it was coming out of the middle of the truck, and changed pitch with engine rpm.

So tonight I tore into it to figure out what went bad. Pulled the PS pump first. Noise still there. This is an oil pump whine, no question in my head about it, so when the noise is still there when I started the engine, not a good thing. Well, who knows, might as well pull the belts and see if I get lucky.

Lo and behold, no noise. Both happy and a bit stumped. Like I said, this one doesn't play by the rules. So put the alternator belt back on, no sound. Reinstall the AC belt, and there is my noise. Spin both the idler and compressor sheaves, both feel alright, but one of them are making a noise. The idler went bad and was replaced on the '95, so I knew it was good, and easy to swap. Did that, and sure enough the bearing is toast.

Happy to say the noise is gone. Never had a bad bearing make an oil pump whine before, but why not? I might have to go back to Jeeps...