Project Phoenix: Need help with Floor Pans and planning suspension

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Joined
Nov 10, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
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Location
Mesa, AZ
Greetings from Phoenix! I'm the owner of the ashes from a 1977 FJ40 (OME 2.5" + OME shackle reversal, 1998 EFI 350 swap, Saginaw PS, 35" tires). In the fire, I lost every non-metal component in the vehicle, including the engine's air intake and EFI system. At this moment, I have the body fully disassembled and will be fixing the warped floor pans.

Issue 1: I don't have much experience with sheet metal work. I was thinking about welding the large cracks first, then use a combination of heat and a mallet with a couple of 2x4 boards. Is there anything I could do different that would make it easier? I'm also seriously considering a 28 gallon saddle tank and would like to know how others have reinforced the floor pan in the past. With a couple of fatsos in the seats and 28 gallons, that would come pretty close to 1000 pounds.

Issue 2: I would like to lengthen the wheel base by moving the rear axle backward. It seems that a flipped FJ60|62 rear leaf would give me 3.5," although I would be happier with something closer to 4-5." If I do go with the 60 spring, do I grab the 2" lift or the 3" (assuming I can keep the OME fj40 front spring)? Or do I switch all the springs? I ask because I vaguely remember that my OME setup gives me closer to 4 inches of suspension lift rather than the 2.5" advertised on kit...but maybe my memory is off. The motivation behind this is that I have a Dodge 29 spline NV4500 and atlas pair that I want to include. Although I'm not going to be working on the drive train for a while, now is the time to figure out the rear wheel wells. I want to paint and undercoat the tub before it starts getting more humid and wet.

Thank you!

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Well....the metal there appears stretched (by quite a lot by looking at your level). I don't think you'll get that to come
back truly nicely by pure bend back alone (could be wrong). Hitting it with a mallet may even stretch it more.

I think I'd cut a "T" in it along the two axis that are stretched. Pull everything back to level and remove any
overlap in the T after you get it flat. Then weld it back. Basically I'm suggesting you "remove" metal.
I do not think you can get this stretch out of it with a shrinking disc. There's just too much warp there.
 
Actually I think they were drain holes. Had rubber grommets in them to you could open them up.
You can buy replacement floor pans from Cool Cruisers of Texas. For the cost and time saved on pounding
heat twisted metal, that would be a better option in both for end result.
Did you have an actual fire, or did you just leave your truck on the sidewalk in the middle of an August day in Phoenix??
 
How did you know?! Down here, the chickens even use potholders to pull the worms out of the ground.

But really, my fire was a product of my own over-confidence and bad judgement. I was getting inconsistent fuel pressures to the injectors on hot days. I had the fuel line attachment at the back of the engine hastily taken apart and put back together and drove it for a few miles despite the signs of a fuel leak. I got what I deserved.

Thanks for the advice on floor pans. I think I'll try cutting into it just for the experience of trying. CCOT sells a $400 driver-side pan as a back-up.

After speaking with Man-a-fre about the fj60 spring flip, it sounds like I need a 3" lifted rear set. The technician mentioned that a FJ55 or FJ70 spring might give me more wheelbase, but it looks like I would have less options for lift on a SUA. It also seems that nobody sells the rear 55 springs in anything but a complete kit.
 
Have you tried heating it up then cooling it down quickly. I've only played with this a little bit. I worked on a jeep fender that was oil canning, I used a propane torch heated an area and then cooled it a couple of times.
 

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