- Thread starter
- #161
As far a using other products, no. I just made sure the surfaces were as clean as possible and scuffed up the smooth spots a little. It seemed to adhere pretty well, and it dries really hard.
Builds Project Overland
- Thread starter VTCruiser
- Start date
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As far a using other products, no. I just made sure the surfaces were as clean as possible and scuffed up the smooth spots a little. It seemed to adhere pretty well, and it dries really hard.
Wow, just saw this thread. I'm so jealous. What mpg do you get with your 1hz?
- Thread starter
- #163
Before I parked it about a year ago, I averaged about 21mpg mixed driving. The best I ever got was 25, the worst 18.
- Thread starter
- #164
I had two sets of the long fluid lines (one brake line, two fuel lines) that run front to rear along the frame, one set from a 62 I parted out a few years ago, and the ones from the FJ60. I used the 60 brake line, but chose the fuel lines from the 62 because they are the same size as the one on the HJ (the FJ lines were smaller) and they install a little cleaner running parallel the whole way down the frame. In order to make it work, I had to add a couple bends around the new tranny x-member brackets..
My suspension components arrived as well, so I installed the front springs.
It's hard to say how much lift I ended up with until I get the rear springs installed, but here's what I am using...
Front:
- Re-arched springs (6 leaves)
- Greaseable pins
- SOR 1.5" over "Performance" shackles with greaseable bolts
- 2.5 deg, caster shims
- Poly bushings
Rear:
- Re-arched springs (7 leaves)
- Greaseable pins
- SOR 2.5" over "Performance" shackles with greaseable bolts
- Poly bushings
My suspension components arrived as well, so I installed the front springs.
It's hard to say how much lift I ended up with until I get the rear springs installed, but here's what I am using...
Front:
- Re-arched springs (6 leaves)
- Greaseable pins
- SOR 1.5" over "Performance" shackles with greaseable bolts
- 2.5 deg, caster shims
- Poly bushings
Rear:
- Re-arched springs (7 leaves)
- Greaseable pins
- SOR 2.5" over "Performance" shackles with greaseable bolts
- Poly bushings
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lookin really good bud
BenMara
Asian Redneck
er should have phrased question differently did you use any mechanical means sandin, wire brush. ect...
- Thread starter
- #167
no, there was no rust and the surface was rough enough for the rust bullet to adhere to. All I did was clean it up and brush on the black shell.
- Thread starter
- #168
I installed the fuel tank and small push pump. The pump is made by Carter and was on the FJ when I bought it, but summit carries them. It comes with a pre-strainer.
I mounted it just in front of the fuel tank along the right hand frame rail, right where the tank outlet and return hoses are located.
The fuel line I am using is Dayco Gen-2 fuel injection hose which is rated for biodiesel and can be found at Pepboys. Just make sure it's the Gen-2 fuel injection stuff.
I also ended up buying a new fuel filter. The old one is a Racor 445MAM which is a marine filter. I bought it off ebay a few years ago and it has worked well, but wasn't quite what I was expecting. Here's the old one...
The new one is a Racor 245R. It is similar to the 445 with a primer pump and 45gph flow capacity, but has a few additional features.
This one came with a 2 micron element (10 and 30 mic elements are available for this model as well), and a 12V heater in a transparent bowl.
It has an easier drain mechanism too which you can open with your fingers so you don't have to fuss with getting a wrench on it. There is also a port for a water sensor you can buy separately. Overall, it's not much smaller than the 445MAM. If anything, it may be a bit longer, but narrower and the top assy less bulky.
The best price I found was through B-Line Filter. I bought the 245R122 which comes with the 12V heater and 2 mic filter for $142.67. Replacement elements appear to cost about $20.
I mounted it just in front of the fuel tank along the right hand frame rail, right where the tank outlet and return hoses are located.
The fuel line I am using is Dayco Gen-2 fuel injection hose which is rated for biodiesel and can be found at Pepboys. Just make sure it's the Gen-2 fuel injection stuff.
I also ended up buying a new fuel filter. The old one is a Racor 445MAM which is a marine filter. I bought it off ebay a few years ago and it has worked well, but wasn't quite what I was expecting. Here's the old one...
The new one is a Racor 245R. It is similar to the 445 with a primer pump and 45gph flow capacity, but has a few additional features.
This one came with a 2 micron element (10 and 30 mic elements are available for this model as well), and a 12V heater in a transparent bowl.
It has an easier drain mechanism too which you can open with your fingers so you don't have to fuss with getting a wrench on it. There is also a port for a water sensor you can buy separately. Overall, it's not much smaller than the 445MAM. If anything, it may be a bit longer, but narrower and the top assy less bulky.
The best price I found was through B-Line Filter. I bought the 245R122 which comes with the 12V heater and 2 mic filter for $142.67. Replacement elements appear to cost about $20.
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- Thread starter
- #169
Here are a couple shots of the suspension. The fuel tank is empty and there's no interior, but there's clearly plenty of room for them to settle...
Next to the now roughly stock-height HJ...
The rear....
the front...
Next to the now roughly stock-height HJ...
The rear....
the front...
- Thread starter
- #170
I've been working on a bunch of small stuff recently while I wait for parts to come in, mostly cleaning. I started reassembling the under dash, and found some pretty good stuff to replace the deteriorated foam duct gaskets. It's foam duct wrap I got at home depot and cost about $6.
Here's a shot of it installed. What's left ofl the original stuff is still on the left for comparison.
I also put the front end back together. It's Starting to look like a cruiser again...
Here's a shot of it installed. What's left ofl the original stuff is still on the left for comparison.
I also put the front end back together. It's Starting to look like a cruiser again...
- Thread starter
- #171
That duct wrap worked so well I decided to rebuild the entire heating and A/C duct system replacing all the foam gaskets. Here are some pics of the process...
Here's the blower housing. you can see how the original foam has deteriorated. All the vent flaps bang around and don't seal properly, and the foam breaks up into dust at the touch, which probably ends up all over the interior, or better yet your lungs...
Here's a comparison shot...
and completed..
The heater core housing was a little more involved, with i think four different flaps...
And then finally reinstalled...
This was definitely one of those "while i'm in there" kind of projects. It took a while to get everything cleaned up and rebuilt but it was worth it. The controls feel nice and tight and the vents open and close with a nice muffled thud instead of the slap and bang that they used to. I highly recommended doing this next time you're "in there." The $6 roll was more than enough for the whole thing.
Here's the blower housing. you can see how the original foam has deteriorated. All the vent flaps bang around and don't seal properly, and the foam breaks up into dust at the touch, which probably ends up all over the interior, or better yet your lungs...
Here's a comparison shot...
and completed..
The heater core housing was a little more involved, with i think four different flaps...
And then finally reinstalled...
This was definitely one of those "while i'm in there" kind of projects. It took a while to get everything cleaned up and rebuilt but it was worth it. The controls feel nice and tight and the vents open and close with a nice muffled thud instead of the slap and bang that they used to. I highly recommended doing this next time you're "in there." The $6 roll was more than enough for the whole thing.
BenMara
Asian Redneck
only if i had the time to do that to my 80
- Thread starter
- #174
The fuel system in finished. I installed the new filter and bent up some hard line to wrap behind the engine along the firewall.
the larger one with insulation is the feed, and the small one is the return.
a shot of the driver side...
I also swapped over the lower dash, and hooked up the battery to start the wiring process.
the larger one with insulation is the feed, and the small one is the return.
a shot of the driver side...
I also swapped over the lower dash, and hooked up the battery to start the wiring process.
- Thread starter
- #175
FYI, I edited the first post adding a tech outline and some direct links.
Looking REALLY nice. Be proud of it... Can't wait to see some more updates!
- Thread starter
- #177
Sorry, I have been elbow deep in the wiring harness for the last few days. I'll have an update soon...
Awesome work, this is going to be a beauty!
And thanks for the diligent sharing
And thanks for the diligent sharing
Not sure if this stuff is cheap or not, but my father owns an Armacell plant. Let me know if you need anymore armaflex, or armaflex tape for whatever it costs to ship it. I have it everywhere around here it feels..
Ryan
Ryan
- Thread starter
- #180
Not sure if this stuff is cheap or not, but my father owns an Armacell plant. Let me know if you need anymore armaflex, or armaflex tape for whatever it costs to ship it. I have it everywhere around here it feels..
Ryan
it's not expensive. That roll cost a little over $6 and I still have some left over. It's good stuff to keep around. Thanks though!