- Thread starter
- #141
I just figured it out! You just got out of school, hence why you have all this time. Excellent.
Looking good so far!!!
i never have enough time. your are correct though.
Builds Project Overland
- Thread starter VTCruiser
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i never have enough time. your are correct though.
that's all for today...time for work
you parkin cars again? i can't remember what you said you were doin short-term...
lookin good
malphrus
- Thread starter
- #143
yup...
- Thread starter
- #144
all the bracket rough cuts are finished...
first mock up...
first mock up...
- Thread starter
- #145
I ended up having to fabricate a left engine mount bracket because the 3FE one was too short. I was able to use the right side with some modifications. The 3FE mount angles are 25 degrees. The mounts on my 1HZ, which likely cam from a 70 series with a narrower frame, are 35 degrees.
welded in place...
All the new trans x-member mounts are also welded in, and the powertrain is now ready to get dropped in.
welded in place...
All the new trans x-member mounts are also welded in, and the powertrain is now ready to get dropped in.
sweet! the color really looks good!
clint
clint
- Thread starter
- #147
I dropped the powertrain in yesterday morning. I am very please with how it turned out. The trans x-member brackets are in the same location as the factory FJ/HJ60 would be, only about 3/8" lower to give a little more firewall clearance, and allow me to get the engine up a little higher in the engine bay.
The shifter ended up nicely centered in the opening...
I also began taking a closer look at the suspension. The good news, is that there is plenty of room for the rear links under the truck, so I should be able to get the geometry I want. The difficult part is going to be making room for the coils, and trying to keep the lift of the springs consistent with the lift of the truck. I have all four upper spring mounts that were cut out of an 80 series with hopes I could modify them to fit on the 62 chassis. Unfortunately, they're bulky, so I may end up having to fabricate new ones. Here are some preliminary observations:
- Rear Suspension -
The plan is to inboard the coils in the rear for two reasons. There is no room on the axles out side the frame rails, and if they were mounted directly under the frame, stock 80 springs would probably provide 4-5 inches of lift, which is way too tall for a minimum height. Due to the design of the fuel tank, and the offset of the diff, the passenger side is a little tighter in space than the driver side, so i'll be focusing on that side.
The passenger side...
the driver side...
In an 80 series the OMEJ coils are about 16" tall installed, and I'll assume it will be about the same in a 60. On my HJ with is probably close to stock height, there is about 11.5 inches from the top of the axle housing, to the top of the frame rail, or a difference of 4.5". So Ideally, for 4" of lift I'll need to mount the springs so that the tops are 0.5" above the top of the frame and flush with the top of the axle housing.
That brings me to the lower spring mount on the axle side. The diff lock mechanism also creates a bit of a problem because it exactly where the the lower spring mount needs to be. I'll probably have to mount the coil higher than flush to make room. The good news is i will be able to incorporate a protective cover for the mechanism, but I'll probably end up with 5" of lift with the 4" coils. I'm trying to find some one local to trade me for a set of non-J or 2.5-3" coils.
The round x-member with shock mounts is strangely shaped and not symmetrical so it will probably be cut out and replaced by straight square tubing. This will make it easier to incorporate it with the upper spring mounts, and maybe move it forward slightly for a little more space. The stock bump stops indicate the axle's location and ideally where the coils will be centered. So you can see it will be a tight squeeze to get the coils where I want them centered directly over the axle and not interfere with the fuel tank. I did a couple very crude moment calculations to see how the links would be affected if I had to offset the coils forward of the center of the axle. Feel free to check my math...
- Assumptions -
Load on axle: 3000 lbs
Moment arm of upper links from center of axle: 8"
If the springs are offset 2" forward of center, the 3000 lbs load would be create 500 ft-lbs moment at the axle, or a compressive force of about 750 lbs at the upper links. a 1" offset generates a 250 ft-lbs moment or 375 lbs of force on the upper links. This means that the upper links would have to support 375-750lbs all the time, just to overcome the moment generated by the vertical loading, plus the additional forces due to axle wrap from the powertrain. This is not helpful in minimizing fatigue of the links and joints. I'll need the springs to be as close to centered as possible, which means I may need to lower the upper coil mounts to do so.
- Front Suspension -
Up front the coils will be outboard of the frame. Here there is plenty of vertical mounting space, but due to the engine sump and steering, the link geometry will be more difficult. Another issue is the steering gear which makes it difficult to mount the coil directly above the axle on the driver side. And since the front will be a 3-link, there will only be 1 upper link to resist the moment if the springs are offset. The good news is that there appear to be enough room that the steering action of the knuckle will not be affected.
So in summary, mounting the coils is going to be a challenge. I need to spend some more time looking at it and maybe make a couple cardboard templates before I actually start cutting to make sure I can do what I want. Unfortunately, time is not on my side right now either, and this is not something I will want to rush. I just graduated so I'll need to move soon and think about getting a job. Worst case scenario is I keep the leafs for now, get the truck back on the road, and do the suspension as a phase 2 build later when i have more time... we'll see.
The shifter ended up nicely centered in the opening...
I also began taking a closer look at the suspension. The good news, is that there is plenty of room for the rear links under the truck, so I should be able to get the geometry I want. The difficult part is going to be making room for the coils, and trying to keep the lift of the springs consistent with the lift of the truck. I have all four upper spring mounts that were cut out of an 80 series with hopes I could modify them to fit on the 62 chassis. Unfortunately, they're bulky, so I may end up having to fabricate new ones. Here are some preliminary observations:
- Rear Suspension -
The plan is to inboard the coils in the rear for two reasons. There is no room on the axles out side the frame rails, and if they were mounted directly under the frame, stock 80 springs would probably provide 4-5 inches of lift, which is way too tall for a minimum height. Due to the design of the fuel tank, and the offset of the diff, the passenger side is a little tighter in space than the driver side, so i'll be focusing on that side.
The passenger side...
the driver side...
In an 80 series the OMEJ coils are about 16" tall installed, and I'll assume it will be about the same in a 60. On my HJ with is probably close to stock height, there is about 11.5 inches from the top of the axle housing, to the top of the frame rail, or a difference of 4.5". So Ideally, for 4" of lift I'll need to mount the springs so that the tops are 0.5" above the top of the frame and flush with the top of the axle housing.
That brings me to the lower spring mount on the axle side. The diff lock mechanism also creates a bit of a problem because it exactly where the the lower spring mount needs to be. I'll probably have to mount the coil higher than flush to make room. The good news is i will be able to incorporate a protective cover for the mechanism, but I'll probably end up with 5" of lift with the 4" coils. I'm trying to find some one local to trade me for a set of non-J or 2.5-3" coils.
The round x-member with shock mounts is strangely shaped and not symmetrical so it will probably be cut out and replaced by straight square tubing. This will make it easier to incorporate it with the upper spring mounts, and maybe move it forward slightly for a little more space. The stock bump stops indicate the axle's location and ideally where the coils will be centered. So you can see it will be a tight squeeze to get the coils where I want them centered directly over the axle and not interfere with the fuel tank. I did a couple very crude moment calculations to see how the links would be affected if I had to offset the coils forward of the center of the axle. Feel free to check my math...
- Assumptions -
Load on axle: 3000 lbs
Moment arm of upper links from center of axle: 8"
If the springs are offset 2" forward of center, the 3000 lbs load would be create 500 ft-lbs moment at the axle, or a compressive force of about 750 lbs at the upper links. a 1" offset generates a 250 ft-lbs moment or 375 lbs of force on the upper links. This means that the upper links would have to support 375-750lbs all the time, just to overcome the moment generated by the vertical loading, plus the additional forces due to axle wrap from the powertrain. This is not helpful in minimizing fatigue of the links and joints. I'll need the springs to be as close to centered as possible, which means I may need to lower the upper coil mounts to do so.
- Front Suspension -
Up front the coils will be outboard of the frame. Here there is plenty of vertical mounting space, but due to the engine sump and steering, the link geometry will be more difficult. Another issue is the steering gear which makes it difficult to mount the coil directly above the axle on the driver side. And since the front will be a 3-link, there will only be 1 upper link to resist the moment if the springs are offset. The good news is that there appear to be enough room that the steering action of the knuckle will not be affected.
So in summary, mounting the coils is going to be a challenge. I need to spend some more time looking at it and maybe make a couple cardboard templates before I actually start cutting to make sure I can do what I want. Unfortunately, time is not on my side right now either, and this is not something I will want to rush. I just graduated so I'll need to move soon and think about getting a job. Worst case scenario is I keep the leafs for now, get the truck back on the road, and do the suspension as a phase 2 build later when i have more time... we'll see.
- Thread starter
- #148
Change of plans...
I have decided the coil/link suspension is going to take too long to do right now. I was looking over my to-do list, and all the little stuff that needs to be done just get the cruiser back on the road is starting to add up. Plus, I need to move out by the end of June and maybe start looking for a job. The new plan for the suspension is to have the springs from the HJ re-arched, and buy smaller shackles. I needed 4" over shackles with the flat HJ springs to clear my 33x12.5's. The target is 2"-3" of lift over stock with the re-arch and 1.5"-2.5" over shackles. The FJ springs, while in better shape, are not heavy enough for the diesel. The front end was struggling with the FJ springs and the powertrain in place.
Swapping springs...
FJ vs HJ
The HJ springs are 6-packs in the front and 7-packs in the rear. They also appear longer so I am hoping to get a couple inches over stock with the re-arch.
I dropped them off today, to be worked on. Meanwhile, I am degreasing the under-body and sealing it with Rust Bullet.
I have decided the coil/link suspension is going to take too long to do right now. I was looking over my to-do list, and all the little stuff that needs to be done just get the cruiser back on the road is starting to add up. Plus, I need to move out by the end of June and maybe start looking for a job. The new plan for the suspension is to have the springs from the HJ re-arched, and buy smaller shackles. I needed 4" over shackles with the flat HJ springs to clear my 33x12.5's. The target is 2"-3" of lift over stock with the re-arch and 1.5"-2.5" over shackles. The FJ springs, while in better shape, are not heavy enough for the diesel. The front end was struggling with the FJ springs and the powertrain in place.
Swapping springs...
FJ vs HJ
The HJ springs are 6-packs in the front and 7-packs in the rear. They also appear longer so I am hoping to get a couple inches over stock with the re-arch.
I dropped them off today, to be worked on. Meanwhile, I am degreasing the under-body and sealing it with Rust Bullet.
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hey man,
let me know what the eye to eye measurements should be for your shackles and i'll see what i can do for you...
malphrus
let me know what the eye to eye measurements should be for your shackles and i'll see what i can do for you...
malphrus
- Thread starter
- #150
thanks man, but I actually already ordered some from SOR.
I considered making some myself, but again, it's that little stuff that's killing me right now...
- Thread starter
- #151
the springs and starter are back. The total on the springs came to just under $200, and they look pretty good. We'll see how they hold up once i get them under the truck. I am waiting on new poly bushings and greasable pins and shackles from SOR. Here are the before and after shots.
I also had the starter rebuilt to 12V for $165.
I also had the starter rebuilt to 12V for $165.
What a difference in the springs. I hope they sit where you want.
Are going SOA? Or would that be too much lift?
-Josh
Are going SOA? Or would that be too much lift?
-Josh
huh? why would he go SOA? he is having to put these springs in temporary until he has more time to set up the coils.
Looks good Gehn
If you need any help this weekend just give me a shout.
John
If you need any help this weekend just give me a shout.
John
- Thread starter
- #155
SOA would be way too much lift. For expedition use, I don't want to run anything bigger than 33"s.
Thanks man, I am out of town until saturday, but I'll let you know.
I wasn't sure how much lift that gives a 62 ... I though I'd ask ...
- Thread starter
- #157
SOA on a 60/62 is usually 5-6" minimum, enough to clear 37"s.
I love the color, I love the 1hz conversion. I am glad to see that you are keeping it Toyota, I cant wait to see the coil set-up.
Keep up the awesome work. Thanks for the thread
Aaron
Keep up the awesome work. Thanks for the thread
Aaron
- Thread starter
- #159
I have finished degreasing and sealing the under body so i guess the the build-up phase can officially begin...finally. I used Rust Bullet black shell and applied it with a brush. I'm really pleased with the way it turned out. This was definitely the most tedious task so far...
I also decided to knock some of the dirt off the powertrain before dropping it back in. Before:
After...
So with the under body done I touched up the frame with paint and bolted the body back on the frame, and then dropped the powertrain back in.
I also decided to knock some of the dirt off the powertrain before dropping it back in. Before:
After...
So with the under body done I touched up the frame with paint and bolted the body back on the frame, and then dropped the powertrain back in.
BenMara
Asian Redneck
did you do any paint prep before applying rust bullet?
