If possible try not to glue where the stitch line will be......It has a tendency to mess up the thread tension......"basting tape" is a double sided tape that dressmakers/sailmakers use to hold seams while sewing as well.........Same applies to not stitching through it though......thread doesnt like adhesive very much........not when sewing anyway....
Project Kayline - a soft top adventure...
- Thread starter craigwanderer
- Start date
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pbgbottle
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toyota folding bows used japan . see pic
I thought i would post this ,it may give you some more ideas while modifing your bows as to
make it easier to fold yours up
...
I thought i would post this ,it may give you some more ideas while modifing your bows as to
make it easier to fold yours up
...
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
any progress?
i know its on the truck
...but details of the bows ?
i know its on the truck
...but details of the bows ?Mini Bows
The idea is to Utilize an OEM Roll Bar with a rack. The bow pieces can ideally be stowed in the rack when not in use. Additional pieces could of course be added as desired, but you get the idea.
A well designed rack might even flip open or something to provide support. A rack like that can bolt on and be removed fairly easily.
Just a rough idea. May still require the B-Pillar (which I see is available as a separate item from Real Steel).
The idea is to Utilize an OEM Roll Bar with a rack. The bow pieces can ideally be stowed in the rack when not in use. Additional pieces could of course be added as desired, but you get the idea.
A well designed rack might even flip open or something to provide support. A rack like that can bolt on and be removed fairly easily.
Just a rough idea. May still require the B-Pillar (which I see is available as a separate item from Real Steel).
any progress?
i know its on the truck
x2 would like to see
- Thread starter
- #26
No photos, but it went OK although it is a work in progress. The top, bows and doors are off the vehicle at the moment seeing as we're having some fine hot weather down under.
Issues:
1. My timber B pillars are too wide I need to cut about an inch off the rear edge. When I drew up the template I stupidly didn't account for the c-channel being bolted on. Thank God I made them out of timber. 5 minutes on a jigsaw. Apart from that, the B pillars work and work well using the hardware store c-channel. Very solid. They have been sealed in a clear coat, but I intend to also bedline them with the black bedliner I have, plastic prime them and then spray OD like the bows after they have been trimmed to the correct size. The B-Pillars are secured to the front bows using bolts which are visible from the outside surface of the B-Pillars. Doesn't look stock, but I think they look OK - kind of industrial.
2. The centre bow has a different bend radius to the front and rear bows adapted from the Kayline bows. It looks funny, so I was running around without the centre bow. No problems with flapping noise or water ingress. But it looks kind of saggy so I will have to sort out a centre bow with the correct bend.
3. Still no "bits above the doors". I have designed them but haven't yet constructed them. Running around using only the tubing from the original Kayline assembly has worked OK for stability, but the top of the soft top is not secured above the doors. Once again, no water ingress.
4. I couldn't get any footman loops here within a reasonable amount of time so I made a set myself out of aluminium flat bar. Bend to the correct angle, drill the holes, bolt em on. I haven't yet sourced the turnbuttons, for the side curtains but I can get the correct ones here, just have to go out and buy them.
5. The brackets for the rear bows are a home-made abomination and the bows rattle from this location. Solution? Rubber feet for the rear bow and rubber amalgamating tape to stop any horizontal rattling.
Conclusion: You can convert your Kayline bows to OEM configuration, but it's fiddly. They work as well as the OEM bows but probably don't look quite as stock as they should (especially the B-Pillar). If you can't afford a repro set of bows or can't source them in your country/location, then this is an option which will allow you to have a set of bows that will work with an OEM factory top.
Note that I made my bows before I had acquired my genuine factory top, so I was working purely from measurements found here on Mud. The fit was perfect. The bows turned out a lot better than they had a right to.
Issues:
1. My timber B pillars are too wide I need to cut about an inch off the rear edge. When I drew up the template I stupidly didn't account for the c-channel being bolted on. Thank God I made them out of timber. 5 minutes on a jigsaw. Apart from that, the B pillars work and work well using the hardware store c-channel. Very solid. They have been sealed in a clear coat, but I intend to also bedline them with the black bedliner I have, plastic prime them and then spray OD like the bows after they have been trimmed to the correct size. The B-Pillars are secured to the front bows using bolts which are visible from the outside surface of the B-Pillars. Doesn't look stock, but I think they look OK - kind of industrial.
2. The centre bow has a different bend radius to the front and rear bows adapted from the Kayline bows. It looks funny, so I was running around without the centre bow. No problems with flapping noise or water ingress. But it looks kind of saggy so I will have to sort out a centre bow with the correct bend.
3. Still no "bits above the doors". I have designed them but haven't yet constructed them. Running around using only the tubing from the original Kayline assembly has worked OK for stability, but the top of the soft top is not secured above the doors. Once again, no water ingress.
4. I couldn't get any footman loops here within a reasonable amount of time so I made a set myself out of aluminium flat bar. Bend to the correct angle, drill the holes, bolt em on. I haven't yet sourced the turnbuttons, for the side curtains but I can get the correct ones here, just have to go out and buy them.
5. The brackets for the rear bows are a home-made abomination and the bows rattle from this location. Solution? Rubber feet for the rear bow and rubber amalgamating tape to stop any horizontal rattling.
Conclusion: You can convert your Kayline bows to OEM configuration, but it's fiddly. They work as well as the OEM bows but probably don't look quite as stock as they should (especially the B-Pillar). If you can't afford a repro set of bows or can't source them in your country/location, then this is an option which will allow you to have a set of bows that will work with an OEM factory top.
Note that I made my bows before I had acquired my genuine factory top, so I was working purely from measurements found here on Mud. The fit was perfect. The bows turned out a lot better than they had a right to.
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