Project chill out "radiator misting"

[abrumley]

So I've been messing around with ideas to supplement my cooling system on crazy hot days. Now the project is far from being completed or for that matter tested but I figured I would share with you to get your feedback and any suggestions you may have. Went to lowes and picked up a run of the mill portable misting system with six atomizer jets, then on to northern tool for a water pump and assorted fittings.

I cut up the misting system and removed the fitting and sprayers. Then roughly measured the length I needed to add a row along the inside of my grill.

Now this pic is just a rough mock up for testing. I mounted the sprayers to the inner groove of my grill using the highest quality zip ties I had

So far it seems to be awesome. I've got to finish the wiring which is connected to a momentary switch in my cab. The pump pushes up to 1gpm at 40 psi. But with the six nozzles attached it takes 11 minutes to go through 2.5qts of water and properly soaks everything. I'll post up more when I get the smaller bits finalized and get some real world testing but so far I like it.

 

[abrumley]

Check out this video on YouTube:



Short video of first test

 

[ppc]

You need to add an accumulator tank so that pump doesn't constantly start and stop,
http://www.shurflo.com/rv-products/rv-accessories/water-system-accessories/default.html

 

[bmw635]

Why not change to a lower temp t-stat for summer? I changed t-stat on some of my cars to run cooler.

 

[abrumley]

Why not change to a lower temp t-stat for summer? I changed t-stat on some of my cars to run cooler.

That was one of my first ideas. After speaking with dan about I opted to go with the regular t stat. Regardless if it opens sooner or not doesn't matter much, once it's open it's open. I have a sc'd rig with a bumper and light bars so I'm blocking a decent amount of airflow and creating heat from boost. This is just an experiment to see if I can lower temps in slow moving traffic with high ambient temps.

 

[abrumley]

You need to add an accumulator tank so that pump doesn't constantly start and stop,
http://www.shurflo.com/rv-products/rv-accessories/water-system-accessories/default.html

View attachment 915742

Do you really think it's needed? The pump is an on demand pump once it reaches pressure it comes in as needed. My hope is that a 30/45sec mist will be all that is needed to drop things down a bit.

 

[bmw635]

That was one of my first ideas. After speaking with dan about I opted to go with the regular t stat. Regardless if it opens sooner or not doesn't matter much, once it's open it's open. I have a sc'd rig with a bumper and light bars so I'm blocking a decent amount of airflow and creating heat from boost. This is just an experiment to see if I can lower temps in slow moving traffic with high ambient temps.

Older car runs 75-80C, newer car runs 90-105C. I ran 71C , 75C in the stock 80C t-stat in my old cars, I modified 105C t-stat housing to use 80C t-stat in my SC BMW. When coolant reach t-stat setting it open fully, so the 80C t-stat will only run at 80 even thou it used to run 105 with original t-stat. I think the cruiser runs 80C so you could find a 75C to down grade.

 

[ppc]

Do you really think it's needed? The pump is an on demand pump once it reaches pressure it comes in as needed. My hope is that a 30/45sec mist will be all that is needed to drop things down a bit.

Based on the audio on your clip it sounded like that pump was cycling once a second. The accumulator goes for $45 on Amazon. 30/45 seconds of misting is not going to be removing very many BTU's in the context of the total output of the motor. Figure how long it takes to climb the Cajon Pass or the Grapevine you would need to mist during the entire time.

 

[scottryana]

Cool man great job and for those occasional sitting in traffic on blacktop in 100+ degree temps this will certainly give you some piece of mind. Not to mention colder AC

 

[abrumley]

Based on the audio on your clip it sounded like that pump was cycling once a second. The accumulator goes for $45 on Amazon. 30/45 seconds of misting is not going to be removing very many BTU's in the context of the total output of the motor. Figure how long it takes to climb the Cajon Pass or the Grapevine you would need to mist during the entire time.

Unfortunately I live in Kansas so I don't think I'll have the time to test those passes out anytime soon I am going to look into the accumulator. One thing about this idea is it atomizes a relatively small quantity of water i don't think it would be very effective on long hill climbs at speed. I think a higher volume more direct nozzle would be a better fit in that application. I could be wrong but it's kinda tough finding hills around my area to test on

 

[oilbrnr]

If you have a GoPro, you might want to see if you can stuff it in there somewhere and do a quick high speed test to see how the airflow effects the mist... Just a thought, might be fine as is.

 

[Tools R Us]

I spent ~10yrs driving/working on tool trucks. A lot of it attempting to make them run cool in the desert, lots of idling, big space inside to A/C, etc. The lessons that we learned: It takes more water than you would think to have a meaningful effect. Had to use distilled water, otherwise the buildup on the coolers was a significant issue and the nozzles, etc, would clog quickly. At the water rate that was needed, there was significant corrosion problems, mainly the fins on the coolers, but also rust on the bracketry, etc. After trying it on a couple of rigs, it was deemed not worth it, ended up going with bigger coolers and/or fans, more $$ upfront, but better long term, way less problems, maintenance.

Living in Kansas, not that hot and relatively high humidity, should have little problem getting a relatively stock system to run in the normal range. If the cooling system is well maintained and a bit of a clutch tune, should be good to go. The big challenge is dry combined with heat, like single digit to teens range humidity.

 

[abrumley]

Tools have you been to Kansas lately? we have two seasons here hot as hell and cold as s***. Two years ago we had 52 days over 100* and in the same year received 18 inches of snow. This place is mother natures practical joke.

 

[rockrod]

It takes air flow to enjoy the effects of evaporative cooling. If air flow is the cause of the overheating then how will the addition of this mister help? I am curious to see the outcome.

 

[mikedamageinc]

I like your thinking but like tools said, I think it is complicated and low pay off. I think big radiator, maintenance, bigger fans, etc. is the key. I've tried the Redline Water Wetter stuff and it seems to make a small difference in various vehicles.

Have you thought about a cheap nitrous or co2 system? You could get one used for a couple hundred and just point the fogger at the radiator.

 

[abrumley]

I have considered the c02 system similar to the ones used on air to air intercoolers. But it's a $600 system and to be honest I have been bored so I decided to play with this idea. I haven't gotten out to drive it yet but with the engine running and system turned on it immediately pulls the vapor through the radiator. So I'm hopeful that it will work to some degree. My truck is not overheating just occasionally running a bit to warm for my comfort. If this trims off a few degrees at stop lights then I'll be happy.

 

[scottryana]

I say just try it next time you have a 100 degree day and let us know. But I think for the purpose that you are trying to overcome it will work fine. If that purpose is just to take the edge off when you see the truck hit 216 degrees and not try and run the jets every time you see the scan gauge go over 186. lol

I think it will provide a few degree temp drop, and probably more important than that it will provide better A/C performance.

And I agree with Tools and it is the same thing I told NLXTACY, only distilled water, if you use water with any kind of minerals in it, you will quickly clog the jets and worse you will be putting a coating of non-heat transferring minerals on the fins of your evaporator and radiator.

 

[Parsnip]

Not trying to be a wet blanket but have you considered an electric pusher fan on the front of the rad/intercooler?

 

[abrumley]

Yes I totally have and I am exploring that option as well but the consensus seems to be that it doesn't help all that much except for a/c purposes. An intercooler would be incredible but cost seems a bit much. And clearances are tight. My cooling system is tip top and I'm not reaching temps all that dramatic. I just overthink things and like having an option to cool things down a notch. I ran the system in real world conditions for the first time today and found a ten degree drop after about a minute of misting. I've come so far with this truck that I am frankly a bit paranoid. It gives me a bit of relief having a backup that supplements the system. My next mod will be increasing the viscosity of the fan clutch purchased from land tank and I'm hopeful this will simply serve as a backup.

 

[scottryana]

A "traditional" TRD intercooler would do nothing for the times you have told us that you are worried about heat. I.e. In town, stop and go, going slow. The top mount intercooler might actually make it worse in that situation. They sit on top on the engine and only flow air from the hood scoop. If the scoop isn't scooping fast moving air than the IC sits on top of the engine and gets hot and could heat the air. Under highway speeds and load the top mounts work Ok though.