Project Carbon Control!

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Dusty said:
This all sounds cool and I hope it works-if it does I'll get one too. but if there isn't any oil in comming from the spicket of that that catcher thing a few months from now at oil change we must conclude it doesn't work. time will tell. I'm a half full sort of guy. I've yet to hear a post of anyone on this forum who had a clean engine at 100,000 miles regardless of what they feed it and even the anal ones still have HG problems. I wonder if it is some sort of holy grail we is looking for-like finding a virgin in a brothel.
dusty


How dare you speak of my own sweet sister like that!!! :D :flipoff2: :D


Seriously, I already know it works because between all the various variations of plumbing and routing and whatsnot from start to finish of perfecting this project, I saw enough oil oozing down the inlet line and into the separating section and into the collection section but NONE coming out the outlet lines. It will make a major difference. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
 
Greddy +

I'll try to post a couple of pics of the Greddy install. I put a baffle roughly down the center and cut it up a little to create folds and surfaces at different angles. Then I added a 3" hose on the inlet so the air comes out closer to the bottom of the can.

The bottom of the can had a layer of oil in it after 75 miles! Now I know where the oil was going!
 
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One more of the install....
 
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tarbe said:
I'll try to post a couple of pics of the Greddy install. I put a baffle roughly down the center and cut it up a little to create folds and surfaces at different angles. Then I added a 3" hose on the inlet so the air comes out closer to the bottom of the can.

The bottom of the can had a layer of oil in it after 75 miles! Now I know where the oil was going!


That is cool and clever! Its hard to see how all the airstream gets outta there though? How do you drain it without removing the whole thing? Again, cool and clever way to work it! Ohh, one suggestion now that you posted that third pic, if you put the can in cooler area the oil will condense more rapidly; you want the can to be at basically the coolest point possible to assist with condensation. :cheers:
 
turbocruiser said:
Even then there is no way to drain the damn thing, trust me I really researched the helloutta this, if ya want a Greddy catch can for cheap to re-engineer, let me know, I'll sell ya mine...it even has "TRD" stamped into it making it even more effective! :D :rolleyes: :D


Come on now! You are smarter than this :D

Your Greddy has three holes in it's side that are plugged from the factory. You use two of them for your sight tube. The third can easily be used as a drain.

Or, you can remove one of the two large hoses, shove the tube of your Tempo Oil Boy or Pella extractor or Mity Vac and suck it dry. Once every 10,000 should do it, as big as the Greddy is.

If anyone is thinking of doing this, steal Turbo's Greddy from him, now! :grinpimp:
 
turbocruiser said:
Ohh, one suggestion now that you posted that third pic, if you put the can in cooler area the oil will condense more rapidly; you want the can to be at basically the coolest point possible to assist with condensation. :cheers:


Well, not to be argumentative ;) but I disagree, especially if you live in a place with a real winter. These buggers will fill up with mostly water in the winter and they will freeze solid and stop your PCV, which we all know is bad for oil seals.

In fact, I would not run one of these in the winter at all if I was in my native Wisconsin. Down here in Houston there is no issue. I would insulate it and the hoses at the very least.

We had lots of fellows freeze up in the winter when we were doing similar mods on TDI VWs.

BTW, next to the washer bottle shouldn't be too hot?? I think that pic is a little deceiving. The can is on the fender between the air cleaner and overflow, next to the washer bottle. It kinda looks like it is next to the exhaust in the pic, but it isn't.
 
RavenTai said:
What about soot/carbon from the EGR system? Any plans?

the inlet system of the 1FZ does get pretty fouled up. the 3FE is even worse.


The great thing is, if you remove the oil, the egr fouling is much less likely to stick around. It looses its "glue", the oil.
 
turbocruiser said:
I removed it when it was clear that the oil simply took the turn from inlet to outlet; both tubes were equally oily. Keep in mind my boost accelerates the airstream enough that bunches of baffling and airstream management is required. HTH. :cheers:


I have to believe your turbo was just too much for the stock Greddy. Mine catches oil even in stock form and, as mentioned earlier, in very few miles there was visible collection on the bottom of the can.

Looks like you found a unit that may be more effective for a forced induction motor.
 
This is a common issue with aircraft. For some reason people spend serious $$ on an aircraft and are annoyed at the oily film/slick covering the belly. Air/oil separators for most aircraft are spendy $300+. However, for experimental aircraft the prices are pretty cheap (a whole other thread for another day). What I'm getting at is there are less expensive options that will do the same job. Here is an option, the mounting is not ideal for a LC but it a small piece of what's available.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/hboilbreather.php

Installed pic

http://www.flycorvair.com/6522292.jpg

Here's one some guy fabbed up for a Jag. Hell if it works for leaky British car a tight LC should be no problem.

http://bernardembden.com/xjs/pcvfilter/index.htm
 
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I used a WWII surplus separator (Eclipse) in my TDI. I paid $45 for it in early 2003. I found one on the internet a couple weeks ago after a bit of searching...$200!

Supply and demand....I paid $75 (IIRC) for the Greddy on Ebay.
 
tarbe said:
Come on now! You are smarter than this :D

Your Greddy has three holes in it's side that are plugged from the factory. You use two of them for your sight tube. The third can easily be used as a drain.

If anyone is thinking of doing this, steal Turbo's Greddy from him, now! :grinpimp:

I guess its just different strokes for different folks, and maybe I shoulda emphasized somewhat more, i'm not trying to criticize your setup but, I'm just saying I had the same thing and it was not my preferred method. I know you can simply screw out the plug there but then it dribble dribbles and is more of a PITA than I wanted. Or, maybe I just prefer playin with my personal petcocks! :D Either way, as I've stated several times, your adaptations to your Greddy are clever and cool. If anyone wants an absolutely authentically fake TRD catch can make me an offer! :D :flipoff2: :D :cheers:
 
tarbe said:
Well, not to be argumentative ;) but I disagree, especially if you live in a place with a real winter. These buggers will fill up with mostly water in the winter and they will freeze solid and stop your PCV, which we all know is bad for oil seals.

In fact, I would not run one of these in the winter at all if I was in my native Wisconsin. Down here in Houston there is no issue. I would insulate it and the hoses at the very least.

We had lots of fellows freeze up in the winter when we were doing similar mods on TDI VWs.

BTW, next to the washer bottle shouldn't be too hot?? I think that pic is a little deceiving. The can is on the fender between the air cleaner and overflow, next to the washer bottle. It kinda looks like it is next to the exhaust in the pic, but it isn't.


Well, not to be argumentative as well but I doubly disagree! :D Remember it takes a ton of time to totally fill these things to the top, also remember oil floats on water, also remember we're talkin vapor not liquid (at least til things condense to liquid) and also remember anywhere in the engine bay is gonna get warm enough to melt the ice, if there is actually any water in the can.

I agree that the pic is a little deceiving, it looked like it was almost against the exhaust manifold. Anyway, AGAAAAIIIINNNN, I like your setup man, it just did not work with my rig. Peace, completely carbon free peace! :cheers:
 
tarbe said:
The great thing is, if you remove the oil, the egr fouling is much less likely to stick around. It looses its "glue", the oil.


Agreed, finally! :D :flipoff2: :D

:cheers:
 
tarbe said:
I have to believe your turbo was just too much for the stock Greddy. Mine catches oil even in stock form and, as mentioned earlier, in very few miles there was visible collection on the bottom of the can.

Looks like you found a unit that may be more effective for a forced induction motor.


Agreed again! In fact the turbo tends to pull so much air that the oil creep up the catch can canister's walls is worrisome; even with baffling i imagine the smooth straight walls of the Greddy would show some creep if you were to run out and open it up right after an aggressive turbocharged run. Anyways I think we agree on most of this and I for one have thoroughly enjoyed the exchange! :cheers:

PS. Do ya want a second catch can to catch whatever the first catch can misses??? Just jokin, lots a love!!! :D :flipoff2: :D
 
turbocruiser said:
PS. Do ya want a second catch can to catch whatever the first catch can misses??? Just jokin, lots a love!!! :D :flipoff2: :D


Sure, I'll even pay the shipping ;)

How many miles do you have on your new set up? Have you peeked inside yet to see what it's doing?

I wonder if you pull more oil up through the PCV than a normally aspirated vehicle? How much oil do you use per 1,000 miles?
 
tarbe said:
Sure, I'll even pay the shipping ;)

How many miles do you have on your new set up? Have you peeked inside yet to see what it's doing?

I wonder if you pull more oil up through the PCV than a normally aspirated vehicle? How much oil do you use per 1,000 miles?


How greatly generous! How's this, the core of the old can is free butchya gotta pay fifty for the TRD logo! :D

I have about three hundred miles on the turbo side and about one hundred on the pcv side, there is already oil in the turbo side; like I wrote I screwed around setting things up, changing fittings, changing hoses and I saw oil each and every time up to the inlet and in the interior of the can.

I use almost 3/4 to 4/4 quart of oil per 3000K. Prolly most of that goes through the turbo side. I was super surprised to see so much oil within that first three hundred miles, startling really, now I gotta go and remove the intercooler and completely clean that thing out cause up til now that was the coolest condensating component! :eek: :eek: :eek:

Again, thanks for the exchange, yer cool bro! :cheers:
 
This stuff isn't life or death - we can post our experiences and even our half-baked opinions and no one is going to lose a limb over it.


Just so long as we don't start debating bullets for elk! :eek:


I am surprised more guys don't want to do this mod, to keep that oil out of the intake.
Oil combining with egr soot can't be good.
 
cool, thanks again.

yeah, exactly, pressurizing your fuel system. not good! it is part of the kit but of course that was one of those tiny little things I didn't get and had sourced locally. The instructions show placing it pretty close to the canister so when I didn't see it I was just making sure somewhere along the line it might not have got replaced by someone not as familiar with the turbo setup.

turbocruiser said:
Hi Mike, you betcha, I'll PM the part numbers from McMaster. I ordered the cans direct from the company, specifically the engineer who engineered it and who is an absolutely avid car crazy weekend racer, I'll PM that too, he actually custom cut the threads for the larger catch can for me, super cool person.

I do not have and do not know anything about having a one-way valve on the fuel return charcoal canister, is that important, I'd like to learn more about that??? Good to hear from a fello turbo friend! :cheers:

Edit - I take that back, yes there is what looks like a one-way valve on that line, prolly part of the Safari kit, BUT, I dont take back that I do not know anything about having a one-way valve there, does stray boost pressurize the charcoal canister? Interesting! :cheers:
 
in line fuel filter

Guys,
I saw a set up using a clear glass in line fuel filter. What are your opinions of such a setup in contrast to yours. I can see one for sure price (~$15.00) for the filter. Seems to me that you would have to clean it semi regularly but then again having a clear view of what was in there without disassembly would be great.

Chris
 

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