Project BJ60 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Threads
47
Messages
410
Location
Victoria, BC, Canada
Hi, my name is Ken, this is my first post. I recently purchased an '84 BJ60 and am planning some fixing up and mods. The frame is REALLY rusty in the back and it's got a few holes here and there in the body. I plan on pulling the body off the frame and fabbing up a new rear frame section to replace the old one. I've already started patching up the body (inner-rear wheel wells, floor, etc...). Has anyone done a "widebody" 60? I have 38" michlein xl's on 2" backspaced rims, so I need a little extra room in the wheel wells. I plan on doing a spring over and cut and turn and hysteer and all of that good stuff too. Any advice is welcomed.
 
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and you think your frame is rusty!:rolleyes:
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by wide body do you mean modifying the wheel wells to cover wider tires? if youre doing body work anyway i would consider moving the rear axle rearward and cutting the rear panel for better clearance and articulation. also there was a thread a while ago about using pathfinder fender flares(good price) or getting sor fenders(expensive)

i got my hy-steer arms from a place called sky manufacturing in the states and i am very happy with the product, but there is a place in vancouver "over the top manufacturing that also builds high steer arms. i would have went with ott but i ordered the parts and three weeks later they hadnt bothered shipping after numerous promises to do it the next day. if youre going to run 38"s get some 4.88's a knuckle rebuild kit and some longfield birfs for the front.

also you will probally end up turboing the 3b, a search in the diesel forum will bring up a million threads on that if youre curious.
 
Thanks for the reply Cody. I was thinking about extending the sheetmetal out from the bodylines above the fender about 3" since I have to fix the rust there anyways. I'll check out those sky hysteer arms, however I was leaning towards the 4x4labs setup, any thoughts on it? I hope to turbo (I know I'll need it;) ), but not until I get this chassis business sorted out. Any recomendations on where to buy gears in canada? I was thinking of going even lower than 4.88's but I guess you run into some grinding on the ring gear? Has anyone put 5.??'s in there semi-floater? Knuckle, t-case and trans rebuild kits all on their way! Thanks!
 
there was a thread about that a week ago, sounds like a few people run 5.29's. but even more grinding is involved. cruiser outfitters in the vendors section has 4.88's and 5.29's. let me know if you find something that costs less or is in stock in canada. if you run 5.29's you'll probally need a detroit locker to handle the torque i dont know if an aussie or ez locker would take it.

im curious how the fenders would turn out, sounds cool, but should take a while to build.
 
I was planning an aussie locker....anyone have this setup? With 4.88 or 5.29? Is it going to grenade?
 
that looks awesome! I'd probably make them out of steel and blend then into the body. Cody, do you mean reinforcing them from the inside? I was thinking of doing something with tubing that goes from my quarter panel protection to the rock sliders.
 
welcome! check out the island cruiser section as well. If you are going to wheel it on the island then get flexible flares. you can get flare material from P&R western star in Keating in various widths that will either screw to the body or the fender lip. fixed steel or glass flares tend to get bent/cracked around here due to the tight trees on the trails.

Have fun with the frame repairs! yuk!
 
Ken ,
have a look up in duncan for your frame repairs, A place called ds welding (i think). If you head into duncan turn left at the first set of lights as you head into town, just past the pedestrian over pass and at the lifetimers boats. Folow the road down about 5 mins itis on your left just ahead of GT collision. I was goign to have them repair my frame and they gave me a very good quote to fab up a new one. I ended up selling the cruiser before I got the frame done.
cheers Bob
 
i was thinking of welding tube on the inner side of the fenderwells but putting enough meat in there to make them strong. then, build flares out of aluminum tubing and checkerplate (or steal, istillh8rust) and use the steal tube like a reciever for the aluminum. that way the fenders would fold before the body panels and still keep the body a little better protected. i was thinking of building them sort of to the style that the front fenders on a 40 are built but wrapping around the wheel well more.
 
Thanks for the tip Chambers, I may tackle the frame myself however. I do a fair amount of fabrication at work, and have the tools for the job (although I've never done framework this extensive before!). I'm posting a picture of where I patched my inner fenders. I cut out the rust, welded in new metal, seam sealed and painted with zero rust. I may smooth out the wheel wells and apply some bedliner, and then do a laminate floor in the back. Has anybody put laminate floor in their truck? I got the idea after putting an oak bed in the back of a '49 Ford pickup we restored at work (looked great!).
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Wicked bumper Cody! That will be another task in my not-too-distant future. I hope you don't mind if I steal some ideas from yours.
 

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