ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Don't use your master- stash that somewhere safe now that you have valet keys.
Glad it worked out for you
Glad it worked out for you
Programmed FOB, but key won't start vehicle
- Thread starter musthave
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- Thread starter
- #42
Resolved. The guy used EZ-Flasher. Looks lie it can be found here: EZ Flasher
He was able to quickly read my valet key, then created 2 new little chips that I merely inserted into the keyfob, both are working great now. $250 and I'm done.
I'm no locksmith, but I don't think he is either. He just has a cool tool that gets the job done. Kudos
He was able to quickly read my valet key, then created 2 new little chips that I merely inserted into the keyfob, both are working great now. $250 and I'm done.
I'm no locksmith, but I don't think he is either. He just has a cool tool that gets the job done. Kudos
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
I have a cheap Chinese tool that will clone keys. Paid $29 for it. The chips are a couple of bucks each.
- Thread starter
- #44
Please send a link
I’m sure this will be helpful in the future for others to. The guy told me that the chips cost about $70 apiece. I knew better but wasn’t in a position to say much.Not sure if this is the right way to go about this, but I think I am experiencing a similar issue. Please bear with me as I frame up my situation. I have a 1998 LC that the AC compressor went out out on a few months ago. I am not a mechanic, but am generally not afraid to take on new things especially if it's a matter of "unbolting the old one and bolting on a new one. Well, I have had quite an education with this exercise starting with the need to remove the wheel, hub and left front axle to get to one of the three mounting bolts.
After weeks of working in my spare time--including replacing perfectly good ball joints that I messed up while trying to remove the steering knuckle, I finally got the new compressor, dryer, and expansion valve replaced as well as removing and cleaning the evaporator. All that is left now is to recharge the AC system.
Unfortunately, my fairly new Optima yellow AGM battery bit the dust while the truck sat in the driveway, so I got that replaced under warranty. Then, when I tried to start the truck, the alarm went off. Since then I have been unable to start the truck, and I am pretty sure it is because I triggered the engine immobilizer.
Back up to when I bought the truck. Someone had replaced the ignition switch, so there were two keys, one for the ignition, and another to lock/unlock
the doors. No Fobs. I wanted Fobs, so my local LC guy--who has a relationship with the local dealer--arranged to have a new ECM installed and two Fobs programmed. Well, they couldn't do the remote function programming because the power lock motor on the driver's side was worn out. But the keys worked to start and run the thing, and also would lock/unlock the doors.
Back to the present. My son lost one of the two key fobs a couple of months ago. Now I have one. The alarm light was blinking when I inserted this key, indicating that the key was not recognized. I hoped that the problem was that the Fob battery had died. So I replaced the battery. Now when I insert the key, the alarm stops blinking immediately indicating that the system recognizes the key as a master. However, the thing still will not start.
I do not have an original master key. Question: when the ECM was replaced, should I have received a new master key from which duplicates could be made? I am thinking I need to just have it towed to the dealer and replace the ECM again and--I assume--get a new master key that goes with the ECM and two more Fobs (I replaced the poer lock motor, so they should be able to program it this time).
Or do I have other options--like these reprogramming tools mentioned in this thread--that can get this damn thing moving again? I fear that not having a working master key leaves me no choice but to take the truck to the dealer and get another new ECM. Any advice is much apreciated.
Thanks for reading this long-ass post. I feel like it's all pertinent info,
After weeks of working in my spare time--including replacing perfectly good ball joints that I messed up while trying to remove the steering knuckle, I finally got the new compressor, dryer, and expansion valve replaced as well as removing and cleaning the evaporator. All that is left now is to recharge the AC system.
Unfortunately, my fairly new Optima yellow AGM battery bit the dust while the truck sat in the driveway, so I got that replaced under warranty. Then, when I tried to start the truck, the alarm went off. Since then I have been unable to start the truck, and I am pretty sure it is because I triggered the engine immobilizer.
Back up to when I bought the truck. Someone had replaced the ignition switch, so there were two keys, one for the ignition, and another to lock/unlock
the doors. No Fobs. I wanted Fobs, so my local LC guy--who has a relationship with the local dealer--arranged to have a new ECM installed and two Fobs programmed. Well, they couldn't do the remote function programming because the power lock motor on the driver's side was worn out. But the keys worked to start and run the thing, and also would lock/unlock the doors.
Back to the present. My son lost one of the two key fobs a couple of months ago. Now I have one. The alarm light was blinking when I inserted this key, indicating that the key was not recognized. I hoped that the problem was that the Fob battery had died. So I replaced the battery. Now when I insert the key, the alarm stops blinking immediately indicating that the system recognizes the key as a master. However, the thing still will not start.
I do not have an original master key. Question: when the ECM was replaced, should I have received a new master key from which duplicates could be made? I am thinking I need to just have it towed to the dealer and replace the ECM again and--I assume--get a new master key that goes with the ECM and two more Fobs (I replaced the poer lock motor, so they should be able to program it this time).
Or do I have other options--like these reprogramming tools mentioned in this thread--that can get this damn thing moving again? I fear that not having a working master key leaves me no choice but to take the truck to the dealer and get another new ECM. Any advice is much apreciated.
Thanks for reading this long-ass post. I feel like it's all pertinent info,
Indeed that is an eye full, so to recap and simplify your details please clarify a few things. I gather the LC started and ran fine before the A/C compressor swap? During the time it was down for the repair the known working key was lost? Your second key, which is questionable, does indeed turn out the security light upon inserting into the ignition (either turns out immediately hence a master, or within 2 seconds hence a valet)?
If all is true above, I'd go back to the area of the repair and not complicate concerns on the immobilizer just yet. In all the wrangling you did to extract the old compressor you might have disconnected a sensor that needs some attention. For instance, one of those is crankshaft position sensor. It's in that area (visible behind the oil filter and mounted behind the flywheel). The LC will crank but won't start if disconnected. If during the repair you pulled and reconnected, check it again, disconnect it and hit it with some WD-40 before re-seating the connection. Also check the camshaft position sensor connector and do the same. The sensor is not visible, but the connector is visible outside of the driver side timing cover (black and round).
Note the battery going dead is not a red flag. The alarm normally sounds when the battery is reconnected and it has no impact on the immobilizer.
If all is true above, I'd go back to the area of the repair and not complicate concerns on the immobilizer just yet. In all the wrangling you did to extract the old compressor you might have disconnected a sensor that needs some attention. For instance, one of those is crankshaft position sensor. It's in that area (visible behind the oil filter and mounted behind the flywheel). The LC will crank but won't start if disconnected. If during the repair you pulled and reconnected, check it again, disconnect it and hit it with some WD-40 before re-seating the connection. Also check the camshaft position sensor connector and do the same. The sensor is not visible, but the connector is visible outside of the driver side timing cover (black and round).
Note the battery going dead is not a red flag. The alarm normally sounds when the battery is reconnected and it has no impact on the immobilizer.
Thanks loganbrew! You were spot on. Somehow I must have disconnected the crankcase position sensor. I plugged it in and the truck started right up.
I then proceeded to charge the AC system to complete the job that I originally set out to do (new compressor, drier, and expansion valve). When I turned on the compressor, I heard a "clang" noise and it would not come on to pull in the refrigerant. The AC light is blinking which--thanks to this forum--points me to the magnetic clutch relay. I have one ordered and hope it finally solves the problem.
Thanks again for the advice!
