Problem greasing the front U-joint of the front propeller shaft (1 Viewer)

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As far I know you cannot unlock the transfer case (edit - i mean put it in neutral and free spinning). Lifting one front wheel and turning the same to align the front drive shaft to differential grease zerk works with the automatic transmission in neutral. This with the hand brake firmly on and some blocks behind the rear wheels.
My hand brake is in off but will put it to ON later. Thanks for the advice!
 
My hand brake is in off but will put it to ON later. Thanks for the advice!
Do the all the wheels\hubs spin freely while up on jack stands? Front brakes locked up or are the CV's binding?
 
I think they mean center diff lock. But unless they enabled it after doing the rear shaft it shouldn't be the issue here.

@Phantomx33 do you have a small yellow lamp on the dash with an X in the middle of the drivetrain?
Let me check tomorrow and get back. Appreciate your feedback on this!
 
With the trouble you are having, are you trying to spin the driveshaft by hand and it isn't spinning? If that's the case when you have the wheels off the ground try spinning 1 of the front tires by hand to get the driveshaft to spin into the needed position
 
My hand brake is in off but will put it to ON later. Thanks for the advice!
I hope you have the handbrake on when you put the transmission in neutral or the car may role and fall on you.

I mean your comments scare me. You need to have some level of understanding and concern for your own safety when DIY or otherwise please go to a mechanic.
 
With the trouble you are having, are you trying to spin the driveshaft by hand and it isn't spinning? If that's the case when you have the wheels off the ground try spinning 1 of the front tires by hand to get the driveshaft to spin into the needed position
Correct, you need to turn the wheel to make the shaft turn. Just the differential gearing will make that at the shaft difficult and please do not put any wrench on the shaft or you may damage/bend it and get it out of rotational balance.
 
With the trouble you are having, are you trying to spin the driveshaft by hand and it isn't spinning? If that's the case when you have the wheels off the ground try spinning 1 of the front tires by hand to get the driveshaft to spin into the needed position
Yes, the front shaft just did not spin even on neutral. I could not spin the wheel as I had them off for cleaning and rust protection around the spoke...i'll have to do this again as the zerk fitting is driving me....bezerk :)
 
I hope you have the handbrake on when you put the transmission in neutral or the car may role and fall on you.

I mean your comments scare me. You need to have some level of understanding and concern for your own safety when DIY or otherwise please go to a mechanic.
I actually had the car on all 4 jack stands. Still couldn't rotate the front drive shaft manually. One rookie mistake in the process was leaving the car accessory mode ON to shift the transmission from 'P' to 'N'. Needless to say, it drained my entire brand new battery. Had to take to advance auto part to get a full overnight charge.

I will probably look into getting a 90 degree fitting. The front shaft's U joint zerks are obnoxiously tricky to get my locknlube tip to fit.

IMG_8753.jpg
 
Do the all the wheels\hubs spin freely while up on jack stands? Front brakes locked up or are the CV's binding?
I had the wheels taken off at some point to clean it before doing a rotation. I kind of gave up trying to move the front shaft. Will do it another time when I can find the inspiration again. :)
 
interesting. Looks to me with both front wheels in the air you turn one and the other will turn the opposite direction through the front differential while the drive shaft does not turn. This is the way the differential works to allow you to go through a corner and why we have A trac for off-roading/low grip conditions. In that case you need a second person to hold the opposing wheel still to make the drive shaft turn. Standing on the ground or better on four ramps and then lifting one front wheel is the way to do this as a one man job (beside having the wheels on).

The 4x ramps I have were not expensive at Harbor Freight yet came well out of tests and have worked flawless to date. Also makes the oil changes on engine, diffs, transfer case and transmission (still have to do the first drain and full on my 200) easy.
 
The opposing wheel turning instead of the shaft even with the box in neutral is because the gearing between the wheel is 1 on 1 whereas the gearing to drive shaft and transmission is considerable.
 
Finally in aux mode (twice starting button without brake paddle application) I always turn of the HVAC system and the radio and turn the light switch to off (position below DLR) to reduce battery load.

Buying a trickle charger like from CTEK I recommend when you have a garage as I frequently charge our car batteries to keep them happy and twice a year I recondition the lead acid in the cruiser. It pays off to have one also for many short drives which inevitably seems to happen and cold spells, be it that is only for a week or so per year in Houston and not even seriously cold…
 
Finally in aux mode (twice starting button without brake paddle application) I always turn of the HVAC system and the radio and turn the light switch to off (position below DLR) to reduce battery load.

Buying a trickle charger like from CTEK I recommend when you have a garage as I frequently charge our car batteries to keep them happy and twice a year I recondition the lead acid in the cruiser. It pays off to have one also for many short drives which inevitably seems to happen and cold spells, be it that is only for a week or so per year in Houston and not even seriously cold…
Thanks for the advices! Will give this a try now that the car is on the ground.
 
Finally in aux mode (twice starting button without brake paddle application) I always turn of the HVAC system and the radio and turn the light switch to off (position below DLR) to reduce battery load.

Buying a trickle charger like from CTEK I recommend when you have a garage as I frequently charge our car batteries to keep them happy and twice a year I recondition the lead acid in the cruiser. It pays off to have one also for many short drives which inevitably seems to happen and cold spells, be it that is only for a week or so per year in Houston and not even seriously cold…
I got super lucky when I went under to check the front drive shaft. There it was. Two spider yoke zerks staring at me with enough space to use the locknlube attachment. I didn't even have to lift one wheel and put the car into neutral.

I think I should play the lottery with this kinda luck. And thanks again for all your feedback!
 

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