Pre-cleaning rust in preparation for coating

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Greetings!

I was going to say "long-time lurker and first-time poster," but I apparently registered years ago - long enough that I completely forgot about it (duh!).

I have sold my 2007 4Runner and am hoping to purchase a 200 series LC. The one I'm looking at locally is in decent shape. It was owned by a doctor who had all of his service done at the same dealership that is now offering it for sale.

The only issue is the big R. A good amount of surface rust on the skid plates was all I could see. The dealership said they would give me a "discount" (not sure how much yet) on removing the rust and coating it.

Now, I know rust removal isn't exactly easy. It was explained to me that they would pressure wash the underside, then apply a solvent, then rinse. Apparently there's no scrubbing required? I'm also not sure what coating they would use, but my wife bought her 2017 4Runner here and they used Waxoyl. To finally get to my question, has anyone else had a Toyota dealership (or even a private shop) use this procedure on their truck, sans scrubbing, and did you find it effective?

The one thing I am NOT having them treat and am insisting on outright replacement is the trailer hitch assembly. I pulled the cover off and it looked like a coral-encrusted WWII relic from the South Pacific, with gigantic flakes of rust falling off. Should have seen the look on the salesman's face: he just said "duuuude..." 😎. Rust is only on the underside, at least. Paint looks good.

This still may not happen, as they might be unwilling to go down on price: it's a 2010 with 138k and they want $28,900. Gave me some spiel about how it books for $30,000. Um....no.

I know I should simply look for a southern truck, but I don't really have the time to make a trip like that right now. One dealer offered to ship a truck up here (after I buy it), but I guess I'm too old-school. Don't really want to spend $25,000+ on something I can't touch, inspect, and drive first.

Thanks in advance for any feedback/wisdom you can provide!
 
You don't mention what part of the country you are in, which might help.

I get mine sprayed annually by a local place that uses NHOU product (Home | NH Oil Undercoating) Great stuff.

I'm curious how you expect them to replace the "trailer hitch" when it is built into the rear frame crossmember. Pretty sure it can't just be unbolted and replaced.
 
If it is just light surface rust, a pressure wash and dry followed by an application of Corroseal or other converter, followed by the frame paint will do a good job.
 
You don't mention what part of the country you are in, which might help.

I get mine sprayed annually by a local place that uses NHOU product (Home | NH Oil Undercoating) Great stuff.

I'm curious how you expect them to replace the "trailer hitch" when it is built into the rear frame crossmember. Pretty sure it can't just be unbolted and replaced.

I'm in Minnesota.

I should clarify: I meant the hitch receptacle, not the arms that attach to the frame.
 
I bought my 200 series sight unseen out of Texas. First time I saw it was when the shipper unloaded down the street from my house. Granted it was not as old or as high mileage but there+were no surprises. It’s a Land Cruiser and as long as the car fax is good you’ll be good. I immediately started preventing rust and fluid filmed it ASAP. I’d suggest going south of the rust belt if you plan on keeping it, if that’s not an option fluid Film it and drive it worry free. Please don’t let some dealership spray that rubberized crap under there, even if it’s free that stuff is garbage.
 
I'm in Minnesota.

I should clarify: I meant the hitch receptacle, not the arms that attach to the frame.

It's still all one piece, welded together at the factory.
 
CarMax is an alternate option. They'll ship from other states. They charge a fee for shipping, but you aren't obligated to buy once it gets there. I'd go that route to start with a southern truck, then as soon as you get it have it coated with fluid film or similar. Re-apply as often as needed. Yeah i get the vibe they are just gonna cover up the rust and make it look pretty from the outside. Also pretty high price for a 10 with rust
 
FYI, Repair Geek did a great video test of about 10 products, from Fluid Film to POR to Rust-Oleum.
 
So, the skid plates are not a great quality of metal (with regards to corrosion resistance). The good news is that the rest of the vehicle is quite corrosion resistant and the plates can be removed and replaced. Also, as far as scrubbing, it is not always necessary. Corrosion (rust) is a chemical process and it is possible to stop it, even reverse it with chemical treatment. These "reversal" products while never add metal where it is gone, but they can stop the process without physically removing all the corrosion. So, what they are proposing is not a bad solution. However, in time the plates will get pitted by road debris again and corrosion will start again if you live in an area that they salt roads, etc. The good news again is that you can just unbolt and replace the plates.
I live in the Chicago area (highly salted roads). I bought my truck from a dealer in Texas. I found a mobile 3rd party car inspection service that was VERY thorough and sent me a full report and hundreds of photos so I knew exactly what I was getting when buying it without every having laid my own hands on the vehicle. It can be done safely. Let me know if you are interested in the name of the service.
 
Get a cheap flight to Denver and drive home a LX with little to no rust. I would avoid any trucks that have lived in MN.
 
Like CarMax, AutoNation will ship a vehicle across the country for you. I bought mine from Texas and they shipped it to Chicago for $500. That was non-refundable but if it’s been a mess I could’ve walked away.
 

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