Rather than fumble through the other thread it seemed like time to start another. I know there's a couple other threads rolling but again; seemed easier to start one on this rig (as it already has it).
This is the cog mount. It screws above and below the crank, and a plastic wheel sits over the crank.
This is the cable. It runs to the motor which sits inside the door.
This is the motor itself. High speed and low torque.
This is the unit for the power locks.
This is why you do it.
The switches are in the console.
The sub relays/ main power and under the shotgun seat.
There are obvious goods and bads with what I've got going on here, and I'll try my best to cover both.
Goods:
The main power is seperate from main systems. Aside from the alarm power routing through (which kills power at the coil) everything can fail and I can still drive. Any ghost drains that would otherwise kill my battery(s) can be isolated.
It's nice to be able to roll up/down any window while cruising down the road.
It's just plain cool.
Cleaner doors.
Bad:
I carry an electric screwdriver because I found myself in moab with a 6 mil socket opening my windows. This can be avoided my regular maint, and solid (soldered) connection. When it fails it sucks.
When I pull my doors off I have a s*** ton of wires to clip/ reconnect. I would have used butt connectors that plug into/out of each other, and when I re-winterize it this year I will do just that.
A shop did the work and never color coded the wires. When I re-work the failed units (I have two down right now) I will label my stuff for ease of repair. A shop doesn't care because they charge by the hour. The back of the switch panel should explain why you want to be meticulous in your labeling
. It's worth the extra $$ in the long run to do it right. TRUST ME.
You can't walk into crappa auto and get parts. When it's down you need to order stuff.
Enjoy. Happy to take any other pics or answer any questions
Cheers-Josh
This is the cog mount. It screws above and below the crank, and a plastic wheel sits over the crank.
This is the cable. It runs to the motor which sits inside the door.
This is the motor itself. High speed and low torque.
This is the unit for the power locks.
This is why you do it.
The switches are in the console.
The sub relays/ main power and under the shotgun seat.
There are obvious goods and bads with what I've got going on here, and I'll try my best to cover both.
Goods:
The main power is seperate from main systems. Aside from the alarm power routing through (which kills power at the coil) everything can fail and I can still drive. Any ghost drains that would otherwise kill my battery(s) can be isolated.
It's nice to be able to roll up/down any window while cruising down the road.
It's just plain cool.
Cleaner doors.
Bad:
I carry an electric screwdriver because I found myself in moab with a 6 mil socket opening my windows. This can be avoided my regular maint, and solid (soldered) connection. When it fails it sucks.
When I pull my doors off I have a s*** ton of wires to clip/ reconnect. I would have used butt connectors that plug into/out of each other, and when I re-winterize it this year I will do just that.
A shop did the work and never color coded the wires. When I re-work the failed units (I have two down right now) I will label my stuff for ease of repair. A shop doesn't care because they charge by the hour. The back of the switch panel should explain why you want to be meticulous in your labeling
. It's worth the extra $$ in the long run to do it right. TRUST ME.You can't walk into crappa auto and get parts. When it's down you need to order stuff.
Enjoy. Happy to take any other pics or answer any questions
Cheers-Josh
