Might as well toss out the autozone part # for future ref...
Power window problem - another thread (1 Viewer)
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Might as well toss out the autozone part # for future ref...
Good point. I have it linked in my first post but that page could disappear at any moment.
It's a "Dorman window lift motor" 742-601
I'm glad that solution is working out for you.
What I haven't read anywhere was the description of what I've been experiencing. It seems that due to resistance, either the old weather stripping, sticky scissors, or a combination of things.... the window will start moving with normal speed initially but then slows to a stop after a short bit and then will not respond to the switch in any way.
The interesting thing is, it's only temporary. It's as if the motor has be built-in overload circuit that cuts it off to prevent burning out if there's an excessive load. Combine that with old age and resistance and there you have it. I can depend on the motor coming back to life in a few minutes and it'll kick back in with the same drive as initially.
To further emphasize this behavior, if I get a grip on the top of the window as it's going up and I help it with a decent pulling on the glass, it'll go all the way to the top, every time.
So there you have it... it's the "brown-out" symptom that has me perplexed.
*Edit - Oh, I should mention that all the other 3 windows exhibit no slow-down, brown-out or any other type symptoms. They're strong and consistent every time.
Any takers?
Thanks.
What I haven't read anywhere was the description of what I've been experiencing. It seems that due to resistance, either the old weather stripping, sticky scissors, or a combination of things.... the window will start moving with normal speed initially but then slows to a stop after a short bit and then will not respond to the switch in any way.
The interesting thing is, it's only temporary. It's as if the motor has be built-in overload circuit that cuts it off to prevent burning out if there's an excessive load. Combine that with old age and resistance and there you have it. I can depend on the motor coming back to life in a few minutes and it'll kick back in with the same drive as initially.
To further emphasize this behavior, if I get a grip on the top of the window as it's going up and I help it with a decent pulling on the glass, it'll go all the way to the top, every time.
So there you have it... it's the "brown-out" symptom that has me perplexed.
*Edit - Oh, I should mention that all the other 3 windows exhibit no slow-down, brown-out or any other type symptoms. They're strong and consistent every time.
Any takers?
Thanks.
Hmm, you can clean the connections to the switch.
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
bump to RescueU symptoms.... mine is same
buggin me.
buggin me.
last year I was having all kinds of problems with my drivers window: intermittent stopping etc. I finally took the glass out, took the regulator out, took the motor off the regulator, cleaned everything really well with brake cleaner and regreased all the moving parts on the regulator, and put it all back together with a NEW window run. It was working like a new window, except for one problem, the window had a "dead spot" when it was all the way open, I would have to push down on the glass to get it to start rolling up again. I thought it might be a stripped gear in the motor so I tore it all apart again, took the motor apart. The gear was fine, but the inside of the electrical part of the motor was filled with some black dusty crud. I cleaned that out with contact cleaner, buttoned the whole thing up and it's been working like a champ since! I'm slowly doing that to all my windows, 2 to go
Motor replaced... problem solved!!
Well guys I'm happy to say that after suffering thru this "brown-out" debilitating problem to my Driver's Power Window for most of the year, I've finally fixed the problem.
I grabbed a nice 12v power supply that I use for my Yaesu Ham radios and verified that when applying clean 13v juice to the regulator's motor, it'll lower the window without issue... but only a few seconds into the load of raising the window and it'll quickly slow to a halt. If left alone, it does resume working after 5-10 minutes, but is only good if I'm helping the window up by grabbing the glass.
That all being confirmed, I broke out the OEM manual and removed the whole regulator/motor assembly. Not that difficult.
Now I had 2 older power window regulators (w/motor) I'd secured probably 8 years ago to convert my '88 4Runner's manual windows to powered versions. So I tested them with the 12v power supply and confirmed both worked...just didn't know if they'd be able to operate under load.
I laid one of them down next to my 1997's motor and they had all the right mount points. The older models were a bit thicker. Mr. T's part numbers didn't match, of course. Did the swap... everything fit like a glove. Reinstalled the regulator and attached the window. Tested with the power supply directly and then via the OEM harness with the Main Window controls... identical performance. The DS window now flies up. I think this regulator motor I used has to be near 10 years older than the '97, but appears to be beefier.
I'll post up a separate thread in a little bit with pics that detail the older motor, it's part numbers, and the simple connector patch I used to solve the square plug/round receptacle problem.
Gotta go tackle a time sensitive project, and then I'll recap with photos/details later.
Cheers!
Well guys I'm happy to say that after suffering thru this "brown-out" debilitating problem to my Driver's Power Window for most of the year, I've finally fixed the problem.
I grabbed a nice 12v power supply that I use for my Yaesu Ham radios and verified that when applying clean 13v juice to the regulator's motor, it'll lower the window without issue... but only a few seconds into the load of raising the window and it'll quickly slow to a halt. If left alone, it does resume working after 5-10 minutes, but is only good if I'm helping the window up by grabbing the glass.
That all being confirmed, I broke out the OEM manual and removed the whole regulator/motor assembly. Not that difficult.
Now I had 2 older power window regulators (w/motor) I'd secured probably 8 years ago to convert my '88 4Runner's manual windows to powered versions. So I tested them with the 12v power supply and confirmed both worked...just didn't know if they'd be able to operate under load.
I laid one of them down next to my 1997's motor and they had all the right mount points. The older models were a bit thicker. Mr. T's part numbers didn't match, of course. Did the swap... everything fit like a glove. Reinstalled the regulator and attached the window. Tested with the power supply directly and then via the OEM harness with the Main Window controls... identical performance. The DS window now flies up. I think this regulator motor I used has to be near 10 years older than the '97, but appears to be beefier.
I'll post up a separate thread in a little bit with pics that detail the older motor, it's part numbers, and the simple connector patch I used to solve the square plug/round receptacle problem.
Gotta go tackle a time sensitive project, and then I'll recap with photos/details later.
Cheers!
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
fwiw, I fixed my slow window by buying a $50-ish motor from autozone
easy installation. minor wiring work to get everything to match up.
I'm very happy with the results.
easy installation. minor wiring work to get everything to match up.
I'm very happy with the results.
What is that Autozone part #?
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
autozone # 742-601
Thanks.
I wanted to take the time to write a couple of window problems I had and how they were resolved.
First the window slowness:
My window had basically stopped going up and down entirely. I could help it up or down with my hand but the motor power alone would not do it. Replacing the window track rubber solved this nicely. The window track rubber does go all the way down into the door and to the bottom of the track so I don’t think it could be replaced without taking out the window entirely like others have said.
The Second issue I solved was my window could go up and down but not if it reached either end.
At first it was just if it reached the bottom then I could never get the motor to turn on and bring the window back up. My quick fix for this (hunting was just 3 days away) was to fix a wooden block inside the door that would stop the window from going down the last inch. This worked for 6 months until it started doing the same thing at the other end. If the window went all the way up, I would not be able to lower it again. So now I need to explain that I had replaced the window motor with an after market motor (Toyota was $250 for a motor and the after market was ~$100) a couple of years ago. This was due to the window slowness up and down (prior to replacing the window track rubber). Ultimately replacing the motor fixed nothing and achieved nothing in terms of solving the window slowness. I took apart the after market motor and found that a rubber O ring had worn and was allowing the gear too much slop side to side so when the window reached its end the gear would jam to the side and be stuck. [I did try replacing the O ring but was not able to get the motor to work better than it was.] That’s why the motor only jammed when the window reached top or bottom. I could get the motor to work again by taking the motor off the regulator, applying power till it ran, then bolting it back up to the regulator but that only fixed it until the window ran all the way up or down. The solution was to replace the motor with a Toyota motor. My recommendation is to never buy one of the after market motors. I write this up in case anyone else sees this same behavior then they will know what the issue is.
First the window slowness:
My window had basically stopped going up and down entirely. I could help it up or down with my hand but the motor power alone would not do it. Replacing the window track rubber solved this nicely. The window track rubber does go all the way down into the door and to the bottom of the track so I don’t think it could be replaced without taking out the window entirely like others have said.
The Second issue I solved was my window could go up and down but not if it reached either end.
At first it was just if it reached the bottom then I could never get the motor to turn on and bring the window back up. My quick fix for this (hunting was just 3 days away) was to fix a wooden block inside the door that would stop the window from going down the last inch. This worked for 6 months until it started doing the same thing at the other end. If the window went all the way up, I would not be able to lower it again. So now I need to explain that I had replaced the window motor with an after market motor (Toyota was $250 for a motor and the after market was ~$100) a couple of years ago. This was due to the window slowness up and down (prior to replacing the window track rubber). Ultimately replacing the motor fixed nothing and achieved nothing in terms of solving the window slowness. I took apart the after market motor and found that a rubber O ring had worn and was allowing the gear too much slop side to side so when the window reached its end the gear would jam to the side and be stuck. [I did try replacing the O ring but was not able to get the motor to work better than it was.] That’s why the motor only jammed when the window reached top or bottom. I could get the motor to work again by taking the motor off the regulator, applying power till it ran, then bolting it back up to the regulator but that only fixed it until the window ran all the way up or down. The solution was to replace the motor with a Toyota motor. My recommendation is to never buy one of the after market motors. I write this up in case anyone else sees this same behavior then they will know what the issue is.
x2. My sysmptoms were like yours. I took mine apart (carefully) and cleaned the green and black crud from the contacts and reassembled. No more problems...The crud got there from being rained on occassionally thru the years.
