Power window problem - another thread

[sundaypunch]

I read through the many power window problem threads and have a couple of questions. All of my windows are a little slow which I can deal with. The drivers front has started working intermittently.

It will work fine several times in a row then decide to stop on the way up or down. It then may go up or down a little or a lot. Or it may do nothing for five minutes. Then it may go all the way up or down a few dozen times without an issue.

I pulled the master switch and cleaned all the contacts. It made no difference. At this point I'm not sure if I'm better off getting a used master switch or just replacing the window motor?

It looks like I can get a new motor at Autozone for $55

Has anyone tried one of these cheap Autozone motors?

 

[Michael Hanson]

I pulled the inside panels and greased and siliconed(SPRAYED LIQUID) on all tracks and parts.They worked much better.Also by reading other threads Toyota used series circuits instead of parallel circuits,major mistake,but cheaper for Toyota. I am going back and grounding each one. Mike

 

[sundaypunch]

I will eventually lube the runs or buy new ones. That should speed them up from what I have read. For now I want to get the drivers window working reliably. This seems to be a less straightforward diagnosis than the slow or binding problems.

 

[murf]

This worked for me for the same problem. Maybe try it again?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/253628-master-window-switch-fix.html

Hope it helps!

 

[sundaypunch]

This worked for me for the same problem. Maybe try it again?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/253628-master-window-switch-fix.html

Hope it helps!

Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately for me I tried cleaning the contacts earlier today and it didn't make a difference. I'm going to replace the master switch with a $20 ebay switch to rule that out. If that doesn't solve it I'll sell the switch and move on to the motor, grounds, regulator, etc.

 

[PDoyle]

Where's landtank....
Last discussion on this topic he figured out it was the scissors in the arms that binds up after the 13 year old grease starts to dry out. I took a can of 3 in 1 oil and tried my best to hit where the arms meet in the middle of the door.
I used syl glide on the window tracks last fall and didn't like so much the grease I'm still cleaning off the residue. But the windows worked well.

 

[sundaypunch]

Where's landtank....
Last discussion on this topic he figured out it was the scissors in the arms that binds up after the 13 year old grease starts to dry out. I took a can of 3 in 1 oil and tried my best to hit where the arms meet in the middle of the door.
I used syl glide on the window tracks last fall and didn't like so much the grease I'm still cleaning off the residue. But the windows worked well.

Would that cause an intermittent problem? It seems strange that the window would work perfectly sometimes if it was this binding problem.

 

[PDoyle]

Don't know. If you got the time, pull off the door skin and you will see the arms when you look into the door with the window down. Drop some 3 in 1 in between the door frame and do your best hit the scissor area. Get a towel to catch the drips. I had alot of it drain down out the weep hole on to my running boards for a while. If your gonna do this as well toss in some 6 " speakers too.

 

[retrofive]

For the sake of general knowledge, is there anything different with the cruisers window assembly compared to.... well any other? I wouldn't think so.

Pretty much the same method of scissor lift, motor and glass attached the frame correct?

 

[PDoyle]

For the sake of general knowledge, is there anything different with the cruisers window assembly compared to.... well any other? I wouldn't think so.

Pretty much the same method of scissor lift, motor and glass attached the frame correct?

Probably. But if its say, a GM or Chrysler it may have some plastic in there as well.

 

[sundaypunch]

For the sake of general knowledge, is there anything different with the cruisers window assembly compared to.... well any other?.....

Let's see, they have multiple problems once they are about 10+ years old....sounds like a typical power window system to me.

 

[sundaypunch]

Well, I tried another switch with no luck. Same intermittent problem. Looks like I will rip into the door and see if the landtank fix works on the arms.

 

[sandcruiser]

I'm planning to pull the toyota switches completely and put the drivers/pass window controls into my center console. I can get new switches locally for $5 or so, then run new wires.

It'll mimic the systems found on many european cars.
Not sure what to do about the rear windows yet-- I don't want to lose the ability to control them, but think it may be really inconvenient for a passenger to lean forward to the center console to control their window.

Regardless, I suspect that a big part of the problem on my windows is 1) corrosion from getting damp whenever the door gets opened in the rain, and 2) too much resistence in the circuit that goes from the non-driver windows, back to the driver's door.

 

[sundaypunch]

I think while I have the door opened up and mess with the arms, I will also try one of the Autozone $55 motors. I don't think I have a problem with the runs. When the window works it is smooth and fairly fast.

 

[PDoyle]

Think it's alot of work.
Pull off the door skin and drop some 4 in 1 oil on the arms. You should be good for a while. Mine works fine now. Did this last fall. Yes, I'll have to do it again, but I think pulling out the motor and replacing it with a new one is more of a PITA...IMO.

 

[sundaypunch]

Looks like the motor was the problem. I swapped in the Autozone motor and it works great. Generally I would go with OEM parts but $55 was too good of a deal to pass up. The connector was slightly different so I had to splice in the old one (2-wires).

I did install some of the Pioneer speakers while it was apart which are a big improvement.

 

[PDoyle]

Goes ta show ya what I no.

 

[sdog]

I just wanted to try my new sig.....

 

[Brian894X4]

Looks like the motor was the problem. I swapped in the Autozone motor and it works great. Generally I would go with OEM parts but $55 was too good of a deal to pass up. The connector was slightly different so I had to splice in the old one (2-wires).

I did install some of the Pioneer speakers while it was apart which are a big improvement.

What might have happened is the plastic gear inside your motor got stripped by the worm gear, due to some binding. It was probably only stripped in one part of the gear and thus the window would work until the worm gear reached the stripped part of the plastic gear.

This is what happened to me. The fix for me was scavaging parts from a rear window assembly that I didn't plan to roll down.

Another common problem is the gear mechanism seal wears out and lets water, which rusts all the metal parts cause them to wear faster and not work properly. This seems to be most common on the driver's side window since it gets the most use. The other 3 windows on my rig were in perfect condition, but the driver's side was toast.

Here's my original thread on my problem and what I did to fix....

Does the autozone part include the motor and gear assembly? I assume it does as its sort of one assembly not really meant to take apart.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/198117-power-window-repair-w-pics.html

Unfortunately, each motor for the 4 windows is a different part. The right and left windows are mirror assemblies of each other and will only work in the window they were built for. The front and rear assemblies are different size and shapes.

 

[sundaypunch]

What might have happened is the plastic gear inside your motor got stripped by the worm gear, due to some binding. It was probably only stripped in one part of the gear and thus the window would work until the worm gear reached the stripped part of the plastic gear.

This is what happened to me. The fix for me was scavaging parts from a rear window assembly that I didn't plan to roll down.

Another common problem is the gear mechanism seal wears out and lets water, which rusts all the metal parts cause them to wear faster and not work properly. This seems to be most common on the driver's side window since it gets the most use. The other 3 windows on my rig were in perfect condition, but the driver's side was toast.

Here's my original thread on my problem and what I did to fix....

Does the autozone part include the motor and gear assembly? I assume it does as its sort of one assembly not really meant to take apart.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/198117-power-window-repair-w-pics.html

Unfortunately, each motor for the 4 windows is a different part. The right and left windows are mirror assemblies of each other and will only work in the window they were built for. The front and rear assemblies are different size and shapes.

I actually saw your thread searching all the power window threads. I'm guessing that's what happened although I didn't tear apart the old motor.

The Autozone part is the complete motor that screws onto the scissor lift. As I mentioned, the connector isn't the same so you have to use the one from the Toyota motor as a donor.

For $55 it was a no-brainer to me. I don't know if it will have the longevity of the Toyota motor. It does have a lifetime warranty. Now that I know how to get it apart I could pull it in 20-minutes if I needed to.