Power to the people (1 Viewer)

[90WT]

Looking for some help on power distribution to the back end. No, not squats and lunges. More like 12 volts and fuse blocks and stuff.

I just picked up a Ham Radio and will mount it in the cargo area in cabinet back there. I also need a new 12v power outlet for my fridge, also living in the cargo area, but only on long trips. Maybe some other odd power outlets or lights in the future, but nothing else for now. Just running a single battery. No plans for a dual battery system.

I feel like for a clean install I want to put a 6 switch fuse block in the cargo area. The idea is to run just one set of wires to the back to a fuse block, and then split off from there so I don't need to run multiple pairs of wires all the way up to the front of the car.

Questions:
Can I wire up the Fuse Block to be powered up by the Ignition Switch? I only want the Fuse Block to have power when the key is on. I don't want the Fuse Block to have constant power from the Battery. Is there a specific Fuse Block that you'd recommend for this application?

Thanks.

 

[pigmony]

A lot of the time people just piggyback off of a switched circuit in the main fuse panel. You're talking about enough equipment and draw that I don't think piggy backing would be a very good idea. It's generally considered best practice to wire a radio directly to the battery because of the amplifier draw. If I was doing this and wanted it to be a switched circuit, I would run directly from the battery, through a relay, and out to your auxiliary fuse panel. I would wire the relay with the energizing circuit piggybacked off a switched circuit on your main fuse panel. That way you get your switched circuit, but your auxiliary fuse panel is getting power directly from the battery.

 

[REZARF]

Yup, you can do that.

You're essentially creating another electrical system in the rear but it isn't hard.

In my opinion, I would run a constant hot to the fuse block with a breaker at the battery but that is just me. If you isolate the entire fuse block to only power up when you have the cruiser on, I think all the little stuff like using lights around camp, charging a phone etc becomes a hassle when you're parked.

To go with your original plan, you'll need a solenoid that isolates the main power to the rear fuse block that closes the circuit when you want it to power up. You'll want something that can handle moderate draw and has little resistance drop. A winch or starter solenoid comes to mind.

I added a second fuse panel to my 40 and I am in process of adding one in the rear like you're planning on doing too. I want a plug and play rear "wheeling" box that can pop in and out for the season with one big plug that powers it up.

I would recommend buying a big batter if you're only gonna run one. If you could fit a Deka Group 31 I doubt you'd need to step up to a dual setup down the road.

FWIW, I love Blue Sea Products when I can make them fit.

 

[90WT]

If I was doing this and wanted it to be a switched circuit, I would run directly from the battery, through a relay, and out to your auxiliary fuse panel. I would wire the relay with the energizing circuit piggybacked off a switched circuit on your main fuse panel. That way you get your switched circuit, but your auxiliary fuse panel is getting power directly from the battery.

I like this approach. Can you give me a starting point for a suitable relay. Are all relays the same, just a matter of what amperage they'll take? Or do I need some sort of special relay? I'm hoping it's a simple solution. If this is more complex and I need to read up, let me know.

I added a second fuse panel to my 40 and I am in process of adding one in the rear like you're planning on doing too. I want a plug and play rear "wheeling" box that can pop in and out for the season with one big plug that powers it up.

I would recommend buying a big batter if you're only gonna run one. If you could fit a Deka Group 31 I doubt you'd need to step up to a dual setup down the road.

FWIW, I love Blue Sea Products when I can make them fit.

How are you controlling power to your new rear "wheeling box"? Manual switch? Is your wheeling box a auxillary battery with surrounding outlets/sockets and such?

Also a fan of Blue Sea. Zero issues with their equipment so far.

 

[pigmony]

There's a relay for everything. I know just enough to know that I would need to do some reading before I could spec anything. One side will need to be suitable for the draw of your auxiliary fuse panel and anything (plus a safety factor) that you'll be connecting to it. The energizing circuit just needs to able to handle whatever switched circuit you can find and piggyback off of.

 

[REZARF]

I like this approach. Can you give me a starting point for a suitable relay. Are all relays the same, just a matter of what amperage they'll take? Or do I need some sort of special relay? I'm hoping it's a simple solution. If this is more complex and I need to read up, let me know.



How are you controlling power to your new rear "wheeling box"? Manual switch? Is your wheeling box a auxillary battery with surrounding outlets/sockets and such?

Also a fan of Blue Sea. Zero issues with their equipment so far.

Here is what I built for auxiliary power...

• Second battery on Blue Sea Isolator ACRs 7022
• Circuit breaker off the battery
• New 12 circuit breaker with common ground
• Relays for high draw items
• power to the rear for additional power needs on cargo drawers (inverter, water pump, sub amp etc)

 

[REZARF]

How are you controlling power to your new rear "wheeling box"? Manual switch? Is your wheeling box a auxillary battery with surrounding outlets/sockets and such?

Yup, I'll use a heavy gauge circuit breaker to break current down stream of the battery.

 

[elkun1]

Yup, I'll use a heavy gauge circuit breaker to break current down stream of the battery.

Hey Drew, is that some kind of phenolic board you have everything mounted to? Am looking for some

 

[REZARF]

Hey Drew, is that some kind of phenolic board you have everything mounted to? Am looking for some

Its ABS, let me know what size/thickness you need Ron... I am sure I can find something.

 

[adventurefamly]

I like this approach. Can you give me a starting point for a suitable relay. Are all relays the same, just a matter of what amperage they'll take? Or do I need some sort of special relay? I'm hoping it's a simple solution. If this is more complex and I need to read up, let me know.



How are you controlling power to your new rear "wheeling box"? Manual switch? Is your wheeling box a auxillary battery with surrounding outlets/sockets and such?

Also a fan of Blue Sea. Zero issues with their equipment so far.

I went with 30 amp SPDT across the board. For most applications SPST is substantial but SPDT doesn't cost any more.
Most accessories won't require that much, however, it lets you be flexible as you add and change. And, by running them through a fuse block, you can fuse as required.
Ace Hardware in Belgrade is gold on non insulated crimp connectors and heat shrink. Come to think of it...ACE in Belgrade is one of the best hardware stores I have ever been in. Silverton Hardware has to be #1, but that's a conversation for another day.

 

[adventurefamly]

I went with 30 amp SPDT across the board. For most applications SPST is substantial but SPDT doesn't cost any more.
Most accessories won't require that much, however, it lets you be flexible as you add and change. And, by running them through a fuse block, you can fuse as required.
Ace Hardware in Belgrade is gold on non insulated crimp connectors and heat shrink. Come to think of it...ACE in Belgrade is one of the best hardware stores I have ever been in. Silverton Hardware has to be #1, but that's a conversation for another day.

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Oh Yeah...Don't forget about your favorite auto parts store! Between them and ACE you can find pretty much find everything you need with a little mental creativity!
And no @MontanaLax I'm not looking for sponsorship....yet!

 

[90WT]

Oh Yeah...Don't forget about your favorite auto parts store! Between them and ACE you can find pretty much find everything you need with a little mental creativity!
And no @MontanaLax I'm not looking for sponsorship....yet!

That's nice work. Your relay layout is clean and very easy to get too.
+1 for ACE
+1 for all the Auto Parts Stores open on a Holiday.

Thanks for everyone's feedback. I did a little more reading, and youtubing and went with a Fuse Tap to provide Aux power source. I'd never heard of this route before. I think it worked out great.

Final product:
Fuse tap from Cig Lighter Fuse, opens up
100A relay, runs to
40A Blue Sea Fuse, powers 4 AWG from my engine compartment through the dash, down the carpet to a
6 Blade Blue Sea Fuse Block in the cargo area on my drawer.
Power supplies one 12v socket and my HAM radio for now.

Can swap 40A fuse for something bigger if I need to in the future. Can swap this wiring to a second battery if I ever got that route. Figured if I fried the Cig Lighter circuit it wouldn't be the end of the world, so chose to Fuse Tap that one. Plus that fuse panel (one of many on the LX470) is located at the drivers feet so it was easy to tag into.

Some pics.

Thanks again for everyone's feedback.