Power Steering Whine (Downy Fix) (1 Viewer)

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Question: How much downy do you put into PS reservoir to help with the whine?

Background: I have been getting the power steering whine for a little while now, almost four months. While I was out of town my daughter was driving the truck (94 with auto) and got worried because the sound got louder, she pulled into a parts store and one of the guys came out and said "oh that's your power steering". He did notice it was low so he sold her a PS stop leak product and even top it off for her.

Well, she told me about this and I asked if it was actually PS stop leak or AT stop leak and she wasn't sure till she checked the receipt. Fast forward to me getting home and being able to look at the truck. It whines really loud in the am at start and settles down a bit after warm up but never goes away. The reservoir is nasty and foaming (the ATF combined with the PS stop leak makes a nice brownish almost purple foam concoction).

I have read the post about the troubleshooting and the possible rebuild. Unfortunately, I do not have use of my dominate hand and will not for at least 3-4 weeks (you don't want to know how long it is taking me to type this). :frown: I am wondering about the downy fix as mentioned here 97 power steer pump bleed foaming - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/97-power-steer-pump-bleed-foaming.1113129 and in a couple other threads.

Any help would be appreciated. I think a bleed and fill is doable in my current state but don't want to try and do any real wrench turning till I have both hands.
 
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I recall only needing a qt bottle when I did a fluid exchange last year, so could grab two and you're set. Keep in mind, if your hoses are original, removing the return line for the flush can be difficult and result in needing to be replaced. Mine were hard and didn't flex enough to pull off intact, but I had replacement hose ready. Once old hose was off, it easily crackled apart when bent...

The upper fitting is easy, but lower is a bit of a reach/finagle if your digits are compromised. Hope you heal up quickly!

Fresh fluid in mine revealed a drip from the big o-ring at the back. Was going to go right into a rebuild or buy new OEM pump, but decided to try stop leak first, as I'd have to wait for parts anyway. Lucas did nothing for me, but a dash of AT-205 fixed it overnight. Still not a drop since. Will still properly fix it eventually, but it's much nicer doing it on your own terms. YMMV as each leak is unique, but something to consider if you have fluid loss from a seal.
 
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I recall only needing a qt bottle when I did a fluid exchange last year, so could grab two and you're set. Keep in mind, if your hoses are original, removing the return line for the flush can be difficult and result in needing to be replaced. Mine were hard and didn't flex enough to pull off intact, but I had replacement hose ready. Once old hose was off, it easily crackled apart when bent...

The upper fitting is easy, but lower is a bit of a reach/finagle if your digits are compromised. Hope you heal up quickly!

Fresh fluid in mine revealed a drip from the big o-ring at the back. Was going to go right into a rebuild or buy new OEM pump, but decided to try stop leak first, as I'd have to wait for parts anyway. Lucas did nothing for me, but a dash of AT-205 fixed it overnight. Still not a drop since. Will still properly fix it eventually, but it's much nicer doing it on your own terms. YMMV as each leak is unique, but something to consider if you have fluid loss from a seal.

How much AT 205 did you use? I have a leak in my pump too. Thanks.
 
It's too late now, but that stop leak is gumming up the power steering box as well as the pump, while it thinks about sticking to your seals. I'd have that stuff flushed as soon as I could.

If you have air in the oil, causing foaming, try bleeding the system first. The procedure is in the FSM, but in short, get the front wheels off the ground, pull the reservoir cap and turn the steering wheel, lock to lock, until the foam is gone. THEN, replace the cap, start the engine, and turn the wheel and see if your noise is gone.

If it goes away and comes back, or if this doesn't quiet the growl, you either have a sucking leak or the drive gear is growling. No way to know without being there, unfortunately, but the two noises are distinctly different and someone who knows can tell the difference.

If you have sucking leak somewhere, it will likely also be weeping; you'll need a new hose/O-ring/gasket to fix that. If you have no ATF leaks around the steering components, it's likely the gear; you'll have to pull the pump the replace the gear. That'd be that prime opportunity to replace the seals in the pump too.
 
Are you referring to AT205? I'm not an expert on this, but it's very thin and supposed to affect the seals via its makeup, as opposed to Lucas which attempts to stop leaks by being thick - so the "gumming up" concept certainly makes sense. But again, not an expert, open to the fact I don't know for sure.

That said, I barely used any - probably somewhere around a thimble's worth. Less than an oz?

Ultimately it is still a placeholder, but continues to work for me
 

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