About to start on my power steering pump in my 2000 100 series LC...
any pointers or tips?
any pointers or tips?
Power steering pump
- Thread starter JRsLC100
- Start date
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Whats wrong your pump?
- Thread starter
- #3
Its leaking out tyhe fluid
Ah ok. How bad is it?
- Thread starter
- #5
It’s bad... I bought a rebuild kit and am gonna attempt to rebuild my pump...
Do you know anything about the rebuild?
Do you know anything about the rebuild?
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Just did mine a couple weeks ago. a few quick observations.
1. When removing the air box, be very careful with the vacuum lines, disconnect carefully and mark what goes where when it's time to reconnect.
2. Fully drain the reservoir before beginning.
3. Have a clamp plier handy (those hose clamps can be tough to get off with standard channel locks)
4. I would replace the "suction hose" when changing the pump.. over time those hoses get really goopy and they can leak at the reservoir and at the pump.
5. The air control valve on the front of the pump is made mostly of plastic on the top- the vacuum lines that go into it actually broke off when trying to remove the vacuum lines. You don't want to be stuck trying to find a new one last minute. Just buy a new one and install it..can't hurt, and you can always return it if you decide NOT to install it. Grab some replacement vacuum lines and replace those as well while you're there.
6. have a torque wrench handy and note the proper torque to tighten the pressure inlet. Don't skip this step. The pulley bolt and inlet/suction and pressure bolt especially.
7. Use a quality spec ATF, I used full synthetic Castrol Import
8. Make sure the screen on the reservoir is CLEAN before starting this, you might not have to replace the pump at all if you just have a dirty screen. Remove and clean the reservoir before doing this job.
I know it seems like a lot to consider, but the job was really easy. I will recount in basic detail the process I followed.
1. Remove Air Box (careful with those vacuum lines!)
2. Drain reservoir
4. Disconnect suction hose (lower, fatter hose) from the reservoir- keep pointed up but move out of the way.
5. Remove the drive belt by releasing tension on the tensioner- get belt off the PS pulley
6. Remove Pressure Feed bolt and move out of the way
6. Remove the three bolts holding on the PS Pump to the block
7. Lift old pump right up through the top being careful not to spill any fluid if possible out of the suction hose (it's pointing UP)
8. Take off the suction inlet bolt off the old pump, lightly pry it up with a small flat head
9. Take off the pulley and clean the threads on pulley and bolt, remove the old suction hose
10. Push the pressure inlet into the new pump- you may have to remove a plate from your reman pump because they're pre charged with oil
11. Attach new suction hose to old suction port inlet (use new o ring provided with the new pump) and snap into the new pump and also reuse the fastening bolt to 13ftlbs
12 Reattach pulley, lightly tighten pulley bolt (re-torque once belt is back on) onto new pump
(attach new air control valve here if you bought one)
(clean leak dirty areas up as well as possible while exposed)
13. Put the new pump on the block with the three bolts, hand tighten each until you get them tight, then torque to spec (just make sure they're on there tight but not TOO tight) to 13ftlbs
14. Tighten down the pressure inlet bolt until it TOUCHES the pump body, then tighten to 37ftLbs to ensure no leaks and proper operation
15. Hold suction hose and pour a small amt of Spec ATF into the hose so you reduce the air in the hose, enough where it won't pour out when you reconnect the hose to the reservoir
16. Reconnect suction Hose to reservoir
17. Refill reservoir
18. Jack up the front so the tires clear the ground
19. Turn key to ON position (don't crank)
20. Turn wheels from lock to lock 10 times, adding fluid to reservoir as fluid goes into the system- repeat this until the fluid level stays in one place and you see no bubbles or "burping"
21. Fill reservoir to FULL-COLD line
22. Drop jack
23. Replace drive belt
24. Check Pulley bolt torque, i can't measure inch-pounds, but i went by feel. just try nf remember what it felt like to remove the bolt and don't tighten too much
25. Replace air box and vacuum lines
26. Eyeball everything, make sure all hoses are reconnected, belt is routed properly and it all looks the same.
27. Crank and turn lock to lock several times to warm up fluid, check fluid level again
28. Drive, recheck fluid level and look for froth or bubbles in reservoir, if seen- repeat the bleed process
That was all from memory. Experts, if i missed anything, please feel free to copy edit and repost.
Probably a 2/3 banana job.
Just do it. Good Luck!
1. When removing the air box, be very careful with the vacuum lines, disconnect carefully and mark what goes where when it's time to reconnect.
2. Fully drain the reservoir before beginning.
3. Have a clamp plier handy (those hose clamps can be tough to get off with standard channel locks)
4. I would replace the "suction hose" when changing the pump.. over time those hoses get really goopy and they can leak at the reservoir and at the pump.
5. The air control valve on the front of the pump is made mostly of plastic on the top- the vacuum lines that go into it actually broke off when trying to remove the vacuum lines. You don't want to be stuck trying to find a new one last minute. Just buy a new one and install it..can't hurt, and you can always return it if you decide NOT to install it. Grab some replacement vacuum lines and replace those as well while you're there.
6. have a torque wrench handy and note the proper torque to tighten the pressure inlet. Don't skip this step. The pulley bolt and inlet/suction and pressure bolt especially.
7. Use a quality spec ATF, I used full synthetic Castrol Import
8. Make sure the screen on the reservoir is CLEAN before starting this, you might not have to replace the pump at all if you just have a dirty screen. Remove and clean the reservoir before doing this job.
I know it seems like a lot to consider, but the job was really easy. I will recount in basic detail the process I followed.
1. Remove Air Box (careful with those vacuum lines!)
2. Drain reservoir
4. Disconnect suction hose (lower, fatter hose) from the reservoir- keep pointed up but move out of the way.
5. Remove the drive belt by releasing tension on the tensioner- get belt off the PS pulley
6. Remove Pressure Feed bolt and move out of the way
6. Remove the three bolts holding on the PS Pump to the block
7. Lift old pump right up through the top being careful not to spill any fluid if possible out of the suction hose (it's pointing UP)
8. Take off the suction inlet bolt off the old pump, lightly pry it up with a small flat head
9. Take off the pulley and clean the threads on pulley and bolt, remove the old suction hose
10. Push the pressure inlet into the new pump- you may have to remove a plate from your reman pump because they're pre charged with oil
11. Attach new suction hose to old suction port inlet (use new o ring provided with the new pump) and snap into the new pump and also reuse the fastening bolt to 13ftlbs
12 Reattach pulley, lightly tighten pulley bolt (re-torque once belt is back on) onto new pump
(attach new air control valve here if you bought one)
(clean leak dirty areas up as well as possible while exposed)
13. Put the new pump on the block with the three bolts, hand tighten each until you get them tight, then torque to spec (just make sure they're on there tight but not TOO tight) to 13ftlbs
14. Tighten down the pressure inlet bolt until it TOUCHES the pump body, then tighten to 37ftLbs to ensure no leaks and proper operation
15. Hold suction hose and pour a small amt of Spec ATF into the hose so you reduce the air in the hose, enough where it won't pour out when you reconnect the hose to the reservoir
16. Reconnect suction Hose to reservoir
17. Refill reservoir
18. Jack up the front so the tires clear the ground
19. Turn key to ON position (don't crank)
20. Turn wheels from lock to lock 10 times, adding fluid to reservoir as fluid goes into the system- repeat this until the fluid level stays in one place and you see no bubbles or "burping"
21. Fill reservoir to FULL-COLD line
22. Drop jack
23. Replace drive belt
24. Check Pulley bolt torque, i can't measure inch-pounds, but i went by feel. just try nf remember what it felt like to remove the bolt and don't tighten too much
25. Replace air box and vacuum lines
26. Eyeball everything, make sure all hoses are reconnected, belt is routed properly and it all looks the same.
27. Crank and turn lock to lock several times to warm up fluid, check fluid level again
28. Drive, recheck fluid level and look for froth or bubbles in reservoir, if seen- repeat the bleed process
That was all from memory. Experts, if i missed anything, please feel free to copy edit and repost.
Probably a 2/3 banana job.
Just do it. Good Luck!
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Believe him, it's the pump haha, he's been driving around for a week or two with no fluid at all haha
Resurrecting this. Planning to replace my pump. Any recommendations on new pump? Thanks for the detailed write up.
Awesome instructions by @fooldall1 .
Go OEM on new pump. Little pricey but will get you another 200k mi. Not difficult job at all, just a bit messy. Definitely new suction hose, but probably reuse existing high pressure hose (you'll agree once you see the price). Make sure your reservoir is in good shape too. Sometimes they crack where the suction hose goes in.
Go OEM on new pump. Little pricey but will get you another 200k mi. Not difficult job at all, just a bit messy. Definitely new suction hose, but probably reuse existing high pressure hose (you'll agree once you see the price). Make sure your reservoir is in good shape too. Sometimes they crack where the suction hose goes in.
It always goes back full circle to OEM. Almost every time there is a thread about premature failure of a replaced part or component, it is aftermarket. You truly get what you pay for....99% of the time.
Few tips.
After pouring or sucking out fluid from reservoir. Then running return line to a catch can. Then turning steering wheel lock to lock slow with tires off the ground. You can pump out fluid from lines, pump and rack. System holds .9 qts.
For those with very dirty systems fluid, consider flushing a 1 qt of ATF through before pumping dry.
When breaking loose the banjo bolt holding the high pressure (HP) line to pump. Hold the nut under the HP line that banjo bolt goes/threads into.
I like the new high pressure line gasket/washers. It's two washers/gasket held together. The older gasket is two piece and just a little harder to handle with one hand.
After pouring or sucking out fluid from reservoir. Then running return line to a catch can. Then turning steering wheel lock to lock slow with tires off the ground. You can pump out fluid from lines, pump and rack. System holds .9 qts.
For those with very dirty systems fluid, consider flushing a 1 qt of ATF through before pumping dry.
When breaking loose the banjo bolt holding the high pressure (HP) line to pump. Hold the nut under the HP line that banjo bolt goes/threads into.
I like the new high pressure line gasket/washers. It's two washers/gasket held together. The older gasket is two piece and just a little harder to handle with one hand.
Just a quick question here. I tried searching for a manual that indicated this but I can't track one down. Does anyone know the part number for the 3 bolts attaching the pump to the block. I broke a rusty one and had to drill it out when doing my timing belt and I'd like to replace it with the correct part.
Punch in your VIN # www.partsouq.com
I am really confused about the control valve you mentioned on step 5 of your observations. I don't see mention of it in the actual instructions. Doesn't this valve come with a replacement vane pump assay? When I installed the new pump all I needed to attach was the short 5/8 hose to the reservoir and the banjo bolt, which doesn't strike me as a control valve. Is that bolt the thing you are referring to?
Is it this? 1763016040 GENUINE Toyota AIR CONTROL VALVE 17630-16040 | eBay
Pricey... Is it possible to refurb with simple green and a brush to clear it out?
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While chasing down a chirping belt issue I noticed my power steering pulley has some in and out play. This pump was replaced with new OEM a few months ago.
Any ideas what would cause the play in the pulley, I imagine this is not ideal . It was not noticeable with belt in and running but after taking off belt I can wiggle it. The pump itself is secured
Any ideas what would cause the play in the pulley, I imagine this is not ideal . It was not noticeable with belt in and running but after taking off belt I can wiggle it. The pump itself is secured
I replaced my power steering pump with OEM, I have a 1999 so my hoses are 20 yrs old. Having said that, I decided to re-use the old high pressure hose (OEM price is insane). Well... apparently a new pump puts out some good pressure and it made my high pressure hose leak, ended up replacing it with a local reputable hose company that re-fabricated my old one. Something to think about when ones vehicle is 20 yrs old and has 340K miles.. 
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Yours may come with that, mine did not. The "air idle" valve was a separate 80.00 part with very fragile (relatively) nipples. Just removing the clamp from the vacuum hose and rotating broke mine off. I purchased a reman unit from...DA, I think..but i can't recall anymore who that vendor was. The control valve looks like a Schrader valve on one end, and horn-like nipples on the other.