Sorry, yes the power station has a built in MPPT. I could solar charge direct to the power station. It would plug into the DC input. There is only one DC input. So I would have to choose between solar and a DC/DC charger. I’m going to anticipate that I might need both, the ability to fast charge while driving and the ability to keep the fridge running while stationary for a few days.
A DC/DC charger with a two inputs will allow me to have a DC/DC charger and add solar later on if needed.
If there is only 1 DC input, yet with MPPT capabilities, that would suggest that the manufacturer is likely fine with you connecting a constant DC source to that input, since most people would likely do that at some point, and they probably don't want a large number of their units to fail. Meaning the MPPT algorithm can likely handle it, for instance having current limiting capabilities. If that is so, then just connect both a simpler DC-DC converter (or a connection to the starting battery with some protection) and the solar panel to that input with a 1 / 2 / 1+2 switch as stated above, or yes get a fancier DC-DC.
Just call Bluetti tech support if it's not clear from the manual, and ask.
Sorry, yes the power station has a built in MPPT. I could solar charge direct to the power station. It would plug into the DC input. There is only one DC input. So I would have to choose between solar and a DC/DC charger. I’m going to anticipate that I might need both, the ability to fast charge while driving and the ability to keep the fridge running while stationary for a few days.
A DC/DC charger with a two inputs will allow me to have a DC/DC charger and add solar later on if needed.
If you really think you will need both your system is probably too small. You should do some load calculations. Conversely look at the Goal Zero Yeti 1500X as it has separate ports.
If there is only 1 DC input, yet with MPPT capabilities, that would suggest that the manufacturer is likely fine with you connecting a constant DC source to that input, since most people would likely do that at some point, and they probably don't want a large number of their units to fail. Meaning the MPPT algorithm can likely handle it, for instance having current limiting capabilities. If that is so, then just connect both a simpler DC-DC converter (or a connection to the starting battery with some protection) and the solar panel to that input with a 1 / 2 / 1+2 switch as stated above, or yes get a fancier DC-DC.
Just call Bluetti tech support if it's not clear from the manual, and ask.
As mentioned in the first post I’m space limited. The Bluetti 100 V2 is the most powerful battery station I can find that fits in the space that I need it to.
I’ve done the load calcs and I believe some augmentation might be necessary. So I want to leave room for that if I find that is the case.
What do I need to get the DC/DC charger and solar going to the power station when there is only one DC input?
200w of solar would be awesome but it would have to live on the roof. Running wires up there is a pain and it would be in the way when my RTT goes on. The Lensun hood panel is only 100w but it uses free space and would be simple to wire which I really appreciate.
I have been curious about the performance of the Lensun hood panels. All I really want solar for in the hundo is the fridge but not sure a 100 watts is enough while parked on hot southern day. 200 is plenty for a fridge if you have plenty of sun.
I have been curious about the performance of the Lensun hood panels. All I really want solar for in the hundo is the fridge but not sure a 100 watts is enough while parked on hot southern day. 200 is plenty for a fridge if you have plenty of sun.
I admit I’m not expecting much from the hood panel. The results with the DC/DC charger will decide if 100w will get me where I want to be or not. I’m rarely in the same spot for more than one night so I think the charger will prob’ly keep my fridge cool 95+% of the time.
85ah (the Bluetti you linked) of available LiFePo4 capacity is at the bottom end of capacity I’d recommend for any setup with a fridge in the mix. I’d look at a larger power station or build a DIY portable battery system. Make space for your camp power.
A DC to DC charger like the Renogy you linked will not work with a portable power station properly. It is designed to work with 2 drop in batteries. If you want to run the Bluetti, buy the alternator charger thing from them and you will have no problem fully charging that power station while driving. It can charge up to 50 amps from the alternator while driving, that can bring the Bluetti to 100% in less than 2 hours from competely dead. If you need additional charging while parked, carry 200 watts of portable fold out solar. Portable panels are way more effective in a camp scenario since you can aim it and find sun easily. With these charging at different times there’s no issue with the 1 DC input imo.
I’ve been installing lithium and solar battery systems in Cruisers for years now, I’ve seen more failed hood solar panels vs working panels. I would skip that. If you want permanent solar, buy a quality flexible panel like Merlin Solar and mount it to a RTT or rack.
@Shoredreamer thanks for the infomon the hood panels.
A different solution in a different direction....I also have a Jackery 2000. It is bulky and takes up way too much room but as power stations go it is pretty impressive. You can charge it while driving or parked with solar. And gives you plenty of juice for a fridge.
I have been bringing it along when I go to events to leave at camp. It am also swap into my E350 Ambo-camper to operate the module.
I just installed the Ecoflow Delta 3 1500 with the 800 Watt Alternator Charger. In that way the power station can manage AC from outside, DC directly form the alternator with DC/DC and has a built in MPPT. Works great for me, maybe it gives you some inspiration.
I just installed the Ecoflow Delta 3 1500 with the 800 Watt Alternator Charger. In that way the power station can manage AC from outside, DC directly form the alternator with DC/DC and has a built in MPPT. Works great for me, maybe it gives you some inspiration.
I was surprised to see such a high wattage. As this amount of power would interest me I went to the website to learn about the product and came across this:
"Will this product damage the alternator, starter battery, or affect the overall lifespan of the vehicle?
No, the 800W alternator charger's charging logic does not rigidly apply 800 watts. Instead, it depends on the power surplus of the car's alternator. It ensures the alternator is not overloaded, allowing up to a maximum of 800 watts without harming the car's battery."
This says that the power draw is variable which I also find extremely interesting.
I am curious: have you used a power meter to see exactly how much amperage/wattage you are actually drawing?
I was surprised to see such a high wattage. As this amount of power would interest me I went to the website to learn about the product and came across this:
"Will this product damage the alternator, starter battery, or affect the overall lifespan of the vehicle?
No, the 800W alternator charger's charging logic does not rigidly apply 800 watts. Instead, it depends on the power surplus of the car's alternator. It ensures the alternator is not overloaded, allowing up to a maximum of 800 watts without harming the car's battery."
This says that the power draw is variable which I also find extremely interesting.
I am curious: have you used a power meter to see exactly how much amperage/wattage you are actually drawing?
Yes, it has an app which lets you control a lot of aspects as for example the maximum wattage you want to charge and the battery voltage it starts charging.
You can also see in the app the actual charging voltage and wattage.
Works great for me!
Did a shakedown run over the holidays. Super happy with how the system is working so far.
Power station app is cool. Only charging on the 12v cig outlet I get 90-100w. Fridge draws 50-70w when the compressor is running. Charging is slow with the current setup but is enough power to keep the fridge cool for at least 3-4 days if I start with 100% and I have some driving/charging time.
I currently have the fridge running off AC power. My research shows that it will be more efficient if I run it off of DC power (no power loss through the inverter) so I’ve got a new DC power cable on the way.
The only “issue” I have is the power station auto shuts off after 4-5 hours, apparently because the fridge is drawing such little power. So I have to circle back and manually switch it back on periodically. Weird problem to have, still trying to figure that one out.
Did a shakedown run over the holidays. Super happy with how the system is working so far.
Power station app is cool. Only charging on the 12v cig outlet I get 90-100w. Fridge draws 50-70w when the compressor is running. Charging is slow with the current setup but is enough power to keep the fridge cool for at least 3-4 days if I start with 100% and I have some driving/charging time.
I currently have the fridge running off AC power. My research shows that it will be more efficient if I run it off of DC power (no power loss through the inverter) so I’ve got a new DC power cable on the way. The only “issue” I have is the power station auto shuts off after 4-5 hours, apparently because the fridge is drawing such little power. So I have to circle back and manually switch it back on periodically. Weird problem to have, still trying to figure that one out.
According to documentation at Bluetti's website for what appears to be your model there's a setting called ECO Mode.
Have a look at your unit's settings.
5.4 ECO Mode
AC-ECO and DC-ECO modes are enabled by default. The Elite 100 V2 shuts off the AC or
DC output after a period of low or no load.
According to documentation at Bluetti's website for what appears to be your model there's a setting called ECO Mode.
Have a look at your unit's settings.
5.4 ECO Mode
AC-ECO and DC-ECO modes are enabled by default. The Elite 100 V2 shuts off the AC or
DC output after a period of low or no load.
It’s annoying for sure. It’s not a huge problem this time of year, by the time I circle back to the truck (or wake up) and turn everything back on the fridge temp has only climbed to 41-42° (from 33°). Maybe in the warmer months it will run more often and it won’t shut off. Would be nice if it just stayed on
Oops... This may be operator error. I switched the fridge between Eco/Max mode but didn't realize there was a sub page on the Bluetti app to do the same thing with the power station. Looks like I've got an excuse to head out and test again.
looks unlikely that your fridge would go up to 41F if set to 33F, if all is set up or working properly. Usually, the cycling spread is only a couple of degrees either direction .
looks unlikely that your fridge would go up to 41F if set to 33F, if all is set up or working properly. Usually, the cycling spread is only a couple of degrees either direction .
When the power station shuts off the fridge shuts off. It would sometimes sit for another ≈8 hours before I’d turn it back on, the temps were 41-42 at that time.
In any case, it’s been running for the last ≈8 hours without shutting off so it looks like it’s working as it should.
