Power Hubs problem on KZJ71

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This setup needs to be jiged up on a shaft that is the same as the electric motor shaft.
Drive Gear.webp
 
oldblue said:
This setup needs to be jiged up on a shaft that is the same as the electric motor shaft.
Click to expand...

Dear Bro,
Bundle of Thanks.
I went to my friend yesterday who runs an Engineering Workshop, discussed with him.
We have decided to make a new gear with spacers etc in ONE PIECE & keep in safe custody the original gear.
Machine it as per ur drawing.
It will be for both wheels.
As u know that the spindle wiring is open on one wheel & 2nd one is OK
So in future when I decide to replace spindle then I can revert back to OEM setup.
I shall post the pictures when it is done.

THANKS A LOT AGAIN

AQEEL AHMED
 
kbushnz said:
Never had much luck with spacers and manual hubs... They work loose no matter what bolt / loctite you use. And that was on easy trips..
I changed the whole wheel hub with a 60 series.... worked fine.
Click to expand...

Which spacers did you use?


~Rob
 
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Made my own spacers, pinned them and then cap bolts grade 8's with the cone / spring washers....
Cap bolts would work loose. Gave up.
A breaker yard who sold my old chrome bumper, did a deal and swapped for the wheel hubs.

Oldblue's mod wasn't on the market yet....But I did think about doing something like that..

Now its back to a Toyota standard, never had a problem again.... Even wheeling 35's.

The other option I was thinking about was to machine / part of section of the hub and I had some hubs given to me from a 4 Runner..
Part of the correct length and weld it together using a lathe to keep it all true..
 
Not pushing our product buttttt....

We have not had a set come loose and suspect the tolerance of the machine work especially on the second run is so tight along with fact that we capture all sixe fasteners and dowels.

We have been wanting to do more of a write up with pictures with installation directions and for what ever reason not got around to doing that...:beer:


~Rob




kbushnz said:
Made my own spacers, pinned them and then cap bolts grade 8's with the cone / spring washers....
Cap bolts would work loose. Gave up.
A breaker yard who sold my old chrome bumper, did a deal and swapped for the wheel hubs.

Oldblue's mod wasn't on the market yet....But I did think about doing something like that..

Now its back to a Toyota standard, never had a problem again.... Even wheeling 35's.

The other option I was thinking about was to machine / part of section of the hub and I had some hubs given to me from a 4 Runner..
Part of the correct length and weld it together using a lathe to keep it all true..
Click to expand...
 
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i have a set of Radd Cruisers spacer and hub set up.
the spacer is top notch, the hubs are the AVM units. i have never been happy with the AVM units on any vehicle. i have since swapped to the AVM to stock ASIAN hubs and am now happy.
the adapter spacer is friction fit and has not come loose.

to be honest though, i like the factory electric and have had no issues on any of my trucks. if you are abusive or neglectful the the manual hubs are more forgiving. if you have the ability for attention to detail and maintenance then the electric are the cat's ass.
 
oldblue said:
This setup needs to be jiged up on a shaft that is the same as the electric motor shaft.
Click to expand...

Dear Bro,
I am done with the set up a shown by you but a little modification is done.
I will post the pictures soon.
Now the problem is
I have manually disengaged the free hub.
Rotated the shaft & found that it is still engaged.
It is found that the Gear is not disengaged from the shaft i.e. it is still pushed inside & the hubs are locked.
I then drove the vehicle & thought that it will retract outwards through centrifugal force & the hubs will disengage but not.
What is wrong.
 
This set up is fitted on to the shaft of the electric motor and uses the shaft as the spindle that keeps it all lined up.
The gear will be at the same position as when it was on the motor.( both gears running in alignment ) when the end cap is fitted back on to the hub body. Make sure that both hubs are unlocked ( not one locked and the other side unlocked )
Mk 2 conversion 001.webp
 
oldblue said:
This set up is fitted on to the shaft of the electric motor and uses the shaft as the spindle that keeps it all lined up.
The gear will be at the same position as when it was on the motor.( both gears running in alignment ) when the end cap is fitted back on to the hub body. Make sure that both hubs are unlocked ( not one locked and the other side unlocked )
Click to expand...

That is exactly I did.
I found that CW rotation unlocks the hub & vice versa.
Now the Gears on both wheels are full CW (HUBS UNLOCKED) so there is no restriction on the Main Gear which locks the axle.
It should move out by centrifugal force to disengage from axle but is all inside & not moving out to free the hubs.
Why is it so
 
Did you drill then ream and fit a seal in to the end cover, and did you easyflo a s/s cap screw so you can turn this gear from the outside of the hub useing a 3mm Allan Key Wrench?
Onother thing to check; the sliding pawel has a metal tab thingy on it, are the 2 tabs lined up with the 2 large master groove in the main hub body if not then the pawel cannot slide to the locked position.
 
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baigaqeel said:
Have u made a new gear & extended it for hole in cover
Click to expand...

Yes the system is in place, I have attached a knob in the cover to manually rotate the gear.
Both Knobs are rotated CW which is disengaged position.
But the Gears which r engaged on axle r still full in & therefore the Front Axle shaft is locked to Wheels.
in fact these gears on both wheels should be retracted outwards to disengage from axle.
R they mechanically attached to the hinges on Cover Gear
I donot find any such thing.
Pl respond
 
oldblue said:
Also check on this.
Click to expand...
It looks from figure that the gear is mechanically coupled to the cover spring.
Is it so.
Mine is not done this way.
I pushed the gear on Hub housing with meshing the teeth & then put the cover with the hinges aligned with the hub housing teeth, then manually rotated the knob CW & CCW to check that the system is moving outside/inside freely.
 
You will see that the splinded pawel , tab thingy, spring, are all held togeather as one unit, as in the photo above ,
has the pawel come away from the tab thingy, if so then the pawel will not pull back to the unlocked position. Maybe time to take a photo so we can see what could be the problem.
It is quite common for guys to twist the end cap when removing it from the hub body and this winds the pawel off.
 
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oldblue said:
You will see that the splinded pawel , tab thingy, spring, are all held togeather as one unit, as in the photo above ,
has the pawel come away from the tab thingy, if so then the pawel will not pull back to the unlocked position. Maybe time to take a photo so we can see what could be the problem.
It is quite common for guys to twist the end cap when removing it from the hub body and this winds the pawel off.
Click to expand...
I fixed the pawel as shown in yr figure, now they r one piece
Pl see the pictures
Now the knob is rotating & moving the gear inside out.
I manually locked both hubs
But when i rotate the front shaft it is not locked
& is locked when I press the 4H button.
What is wrong now.
Should I move the vehicle also after manually locking the hubs.
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@oldblue
also note that the RHS hub is functioning through switch, so when I press the button I see the knob rotating i.e. locking & unlocking through ECU.
After locking it I also checked manually & found it is locked that is fully extended.
The LHS hub needs to be rotated manually.
 
Good to see you are having a go at getting your hubs modded.
You may want to reconsider having a knob on your hubs, it will get broken off when off road.
I would suggest you go all manual for your hubs and not one electric and one manual.
As I have gone fully manual I lock hubs then when back in the cab push the hubs button.
Just reminds me the hubs are engaged and also will show I am in 4x4 when I hit H4 or go into Low Range.
 
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