Power Antenna wiring 101 on a FJ62 (1 Viewer)

[Mouthpear]

You bet, glad to help. I went through a LOT of effort monkeying around with relays for no reason. Let us know what you find.

I know this is way old and I hope you found a solution long ago. However just for future reference I will comment.

You only Need one relay of this type. Wire only the up replay in the diagram. Put the red wire to 87a and the green to 87. You jumper from 87a to 87 with the diode so power flows from 87 to 87a but not reversed. Switch up down is only needed in the up position. So the down can just be terminated at the switch.

Hope this help you and others.

 

[Mouthpear]

You bet, glad to help. I went through a LOT of effort monkeying around with relays for no reason. Let us know what you find.

Forgot to mention. I don't know how or why he went and used the relays. I don't know if he just wanted to use the up down switch (not sure how the switch is wired) but as long as the red has power then all the up down switch has to do is supply positive power to the green (remote) wire when it is in the up position. Using an after market antenna that is.

 

[Gwhitloccrna]

Thanks for adding more info about the power antenna. I never found a solution from earlier. Tried two different types of power antennas and multiple relay/wiring configurations only to keep blowing the fuse to the radio. Any chance you could do a crude diagram or send me a pic of how you finally wired the antenna? Very visual learner!!
Cheers.

 

[Mouthpear]

The most of the new universal replacement Antennas (Metra universal Antenna from AutoZone) work with a remote/trigger wire. The wire simply operates a relay that reverses the polarity to the motor. The red is constant power with or without ignition switch (depending on vehicle or user preference). Green is the remote that operates the relay when positive power is applied. Usually comes from the radio itself when it gets turned on. So really there is no need for the relay. However if you still want to use a relay the first diagram below shows how it needs to be wired to work. I do not know the actual configuration of the switch but as long as there is positive power coming from it when it is in the up position and wire is connected to the pin with positive power this will work. The diode can be found in any old microwave or purchased at any electronics supply house. There is a way to do this with an 8 pin relay and no diode, but I can't find good free wiring diagram software. The second diagram is how it it works without the extra relay. Mind that this is for most of the modern type universal power antennas. If yours is not one of those i will have to need make and model or at very least a few pix. TY for your time.

 

[Gwhitloccrna]

Thanks you so much. I have been messing around with this configuration forever with no luck. So I will make another attempt at wiring it up this weekend. The diagram(s) are a great help. One question, as for the down position of the switch, should I just cap off the wire in the engine compartment? Current if I push the down switch(nothing hooked up at this time, free to the air) it blows the fuse to the whole dash and radio. I tried to disconnect the down portion of the switch, but there is only a positive and negative wire to the entire switch, the mechanism of action is internally in the switch to make the down work. Just wondering what to do with down wire?
Thanks again,

 

[Mouthpear]

Disconnect the negative wire from the switch itself (I'm guessing it is W-B). Cover with tape. Then take the harness that's normally connected to the Antenna motor and connect only the wire that has voltage when the switch is in the UP Position to the Green. Antenna Red goes to a constant power source from ignition switch or battery. Antenna Black to ground.

You were correct, the action is all in the switch, but by the diagram there should be at least 4 wires coming from the switch. I found this schematic online and according to it Looks like the 4 wires are R, W-B, L and L-W. Where R is Positive and W-B is Negative. The L and LW wires alternate between positive and negative when the switch is used. Maybe a pic of your switch would help.

Either way blowing the fuse shouldn't happen at all with nothing connected. Unless you followed the original poster's diagram. That will definitely blow fuses. Maybe he left something out. So the diagram he provided the jumper from up relay 87 to down relay 85 will cause battery positive to up relay 30 to short to ground since stitch down (light blue wire) is now negative going to down relay 85. Hope that is clear.

 

[Mouthpear]

Thanks you so much. I have been messing around with this configuration forever with no luck. So I will make another attempt at wiring it up this weekend. The diagram(s) are a great help. One question, as for the down position of the switch, should I just cap off the wire in the engine compartment? Current if I push the down switch(nothing hooked up at this time, free to the air) it blows the fuse to the whole dash and radio. I tried to disconnect the down portion of the switch, but there is only a positive and negative wire to the entire switch, the mechanism of action is internally in the switch to make the down work. Just wondering what to do with down wire?
Thanks again,

Found A better image of the switch. According to this all you will have to do is connect the green from the after market antenna to the BLU wire. Cap/terminate the BLU-YEL.

 

[Mouthpear]

Thanks you so much. I have been messing around with this configuration forever with no luck. So I will make another attempt at wiring it up this weekend. The diagram(s) are a great help. One question, as for the down position of the switch, should I just cap off the wire in the engine compartment? Current if I push the down switch(nothing hooked up at this time, free to the air) it blows the fuse to the whole dash and radio. I tried to disconnect the down portion of the switch, but there is only a positive and negative wire to the entire switch, the mechanism of action is internally in the switch to make the down work. Just wondering what to do with down wire?
Thanks again,

Any Luck?

 

[bfoldy]

As an update for those researching this, I don't think the solution is quite as clear as described above because the dash switch is a momentary switch and only provides power while depressed.

I am installing an aftermarket power antenna (Metra, like most people) and wired it up as described in post #27.

Connected the trigger wire for new antenna directly to the harness (blue + blue/white wires) in the engine compartment that plugged in to the old antenna. IIRC, I connected trigger wire from new antenna to the solid blue wire in the original harness. The new antenna will go up when you press up on the dash switch, but only stays up as long as the dash switch is held in the up position. As soon as you let go of the dash switch it disengages and the antenna will retract.

Don't have a solution yet, but would be interested to hear any ideas. I could always connect the antenna trigger wire to the radio, but am really interested in retaining the factory functionality where you can control up/down manually. I also suppose an on/off switch could be used in place of the original dash switch, but I don't want to go hacking in to the original wiring.

 

[86aggie]

This is what I installed a few months ago. SEMI Automatic is the operative phrase to be able to use the factory switch with no mods.

NEW Harada AM/FM Universal Fully or Semi Automatic Power Antenna Fits Most Cars | eBay


I only paid about $35, so you may be able to find it cheaper, this was the link I had saved when I first found it.
It has worked well. I did have to trim the ears on the black ring that sits on top of the fender, to avoid making the hole larger.

 

[bfoldy]

Thanks. Were you able to retain your factory up/down switch in the dash?

 

[86aggie]

Yes. The OEM antenna is the same style/wiring - Semi automatic. Switch works exactly as designed, no mods, no relay. Plug and Play

 

[DieselFJ]

Not sure if anyone is interested, but here is the wiring for the fully automatic antenna. I used two relays to make this work, but it works with the factory switch on the dash as designed my Mr. Toyoda. You will have to add a 12v constant power and a ground wire, but the rest of the wiring is either part of the antenna or the relay circuit, you will also use the factory switch wiring that is just below the coolant reservoir.

Antenna Wiring FJ62

• DieselFJ
• Jan 2, 2019

Antenna Wiring FJ62

• DieselFJ
• Jan 2, 2019

Antenna Wiring FJ62

• DieselFJ
• Jan 2, 2019

Antenna Wiring FJ62

• DieselFJ
• Jan 2, 2019

Scott

 

[Mouthpear]

As an update for those researching this, I don't think the solution is quite as clear as described above because the dash switch is a momentary switch and only provides power while depressed.

I am installing an aftermarket power antenna (Metra, like most people) and wired it up as described in post #27.

Connected the trigger wire for new antenna directly to the harness (blue + blue/white wires) in the engine compartment that plugged in to the old antenna. IIRC, I connected trigger wire from new antenna to the solid blue wire in the original harness. The new antenna will go up when you press up on the dash switch, but only stays up as long as the dash switch is held in the up position. As soon as you let go of the dash switch it disengages and the antenna will retract.

Don't have a solution yet, but would be interested to hear any ideas. I could always connect the antenna trigger wire to the radio, but am really interested in retaining the factory functionality where you can control up/down manually. I also suppose an on/off switch could be used in place of the original dash switch, but I don't want to go hacking in to the original wiring.

I have one more suggestion if you have not already figured it out. Honestly, I wish I could have remembered this option before.

The use a of a single diode, should have taken care of this problem long ago. Providing that it is NOT one of those cheap antennas that don't have actual mechanical "Limit Switches" and relay. If it has a cheap control board, that measures resistance when it is fully extended or fully retracted, then a diode will/might work, but there is trick to it. You have to bump it up, then press down.

Furthermore if you want to use the original switch and have a cheap antenna, then using only 2 relays the same trick will have to be done. To not have to do the trick make the two relays latching.

If you are lucky and have an antenna that has actual mechanical limits & a relay to control direction, then all you need is a Diode. Diagram below.

Link to diagram, leave message with request.

**********************************************************************************************************************************************

If your antenna is a cheap one that only has a cheap control board (like this one I took apart).

The mechanical limits should be in here. So watch out for or look here to see how you will need to wire. I am guessing that it is cheaper to not retool the factory or the manufactures want you to still buy from them, so they keep it there to seem as it still has better quality parts.

This board is the only thing inside for control. It measures resistance to stop the motor when it is fully retracted or extended.

If you want to use the original switch you will need to use two relays. The three antennas I tested, with the control board, all kept failing to extend or retract unless there was power already. Power needs to be there before so the board can be triggered. If an in depth explanation is needed I will think about writing it up.

This diagram is if you have one with the cheap boards and you want to use the original switch.

Ignition switch power is the source of power for the antenna motor. Same as most Vehicles.
Center relay provides power to extend.
When the Up is pressed, the Left relay latches through the Right relay. Power is kept on to keep the antenna extended. Like most vehicles.
When the Down is pressed, the Right relay will turn on and will UNlatch the Left relay.

Link to diagram, Leave message with request.

​

Apologies I was never notified there were replies.

 

[Mouthpear]

Not sure if anyone is interested, but here is the wiring for the fully automatic antenna. I used two relays to make this work, but it works with the factory switch on the dash as designed my Mr. Toyoda. You will have to add a 12v constant power and a ground wire, but the rest of the wiring is either part of the antenna or the relay circuit, you will also use the factory switch wiring that is just below the coolant reservoir.

Antenna Wiring FJ62

• DieselFJ
• Jan 2, 2019

Antenna Wiring FJ62

• DieselFJ
• Jan 2, 2019

Antenna Wiring FJ62

• DieselFJ
• Jan 2, 2019

Antenna Wiring FJ62

• DieselFJ
• Jan 2, 2019

Scott

Looks good and will work but you are doing with 2 relays what you can do with just one Diode does. Left a diagram in the comment above.

 

[vankho]

This is what I installed a few months ago. SEMI Automatic is the operative phrase to be able to use the factory switch with no mods.

NEW Harada AM/FM Universal Fully or Semi Automatic Power Antenna Fits Most Cars | eBay


I only paid about $35, so you may be able to find it cheaper, this was the link I had saved when I first found it.
It has worked well. I did have to trim the ears on the black ring that sits on top of the fender, to avoid making the hole larger.

Thank you @86aggie for this! Can confirm that getting a semi-automatic power antenna is plug-and-play and honestly is the way to go.

 

[Mouthpear]

plug-and-play and honestly is the way to go.

Yeah, we all get that having the right parts from the start is generally the way to go BUT, that's not what this thread was about. LOL.


The..

So tonight

And the prefecit of "Working with what you got" was the main thing here.

The PO had installed a nice CD player, speakers, and new power antenna - but neither the radio or the FJ62 factory power antena switch on the dash operated the antenna.

When they say the PO (Previous Owner) installed a "new power antenna" means that what the person was "working with what you got" and how they did it. In one night even. Between bears noless. That's why I quoted the "So tonight".

So yeah if he had the correct antenna this thread probably wouldn't even exist. Basically while it's nice to have the right parts on hand, sometimes an alternative is needed, and that why this post exists.

JS. Just pointing that out.

 

[Mouthpear]

I drew up a little diagram so others can use it.

Now it's back to beer drinking!!
View attachment 8888

So many times I have seen this Diagram here and on google searches every time and thought something isn't right but oh well, you got it done and it works. But It popped up again and I finally took a closer look. It will not work. The jumper from up 87 to down 85 will energize both green and red on the antenna no matter what. You might want to fix that since it so often pops up on Google search.

GIF showing how it is incorrect

 

[Mouthpear]

BTW, this never worked for me. Not sure if it was a different antenna or what, but as I understand the diagram above you'd need a diode placed in between the relays to truly toggle one or both at the same time. Also, the single-throw-dual-switch nature of the rocker switch simply reverses polarity of the input wires, which again makes the case for a diode. Anyway, just wanted to update in case someone else searches for this very thing.

It never work because of this

Power Antenna wiring 101 on a FJ62

You bet, glad to help. I went through a LOT of effort monkeying around with relays for no reason. Let us know what you find. I know this is way old and I hope you found a solution long ago. However just for future reference I will comment. You only Need one relay of this type. Wire only the...

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