Potential repairs on a 2009 LC with over 150,000 miles

[DOCBG]

I am looking at a 2009 Land Cruiser that was mostly a southern car with over 150,000 miles on it, not much of a maintenance history is available. I’ve been looking through different posts but have had a hard time finding a list of potential repairs that will be needed. A ballpark Estimate would be helpful as I negotiate price. Thanks everyone

 

[duggy]

Radiator, water pump, door lock actuators most likely need to be replaced at around this mileage.

Check on the steering rack, CV bushings and driveline maintenance. Also check for the cam towers to see if they are seeping fluid.

 

[DOCBG]

Radiator, water pump, door lock actuators most likely need to be replaced at around this mileage.

Check on the steering rack, CV bushings and driveline maintenance. Also check for the cam towers to see if they are seeping fluid.

I know the upper and lower control arm bushing’s need to be replaced. If most of that stuff you mention needs to be fixed are we thinking a couple thousand dollars or five to $6000

 

[JtFSU]

Don’t forget starter! Ask me how I know... Stuck in FL- starter

And you may be getting close to a 2nd water pump.

 

[DOCBG]

So without maintenance history, I can assume the five to $6000 range?

 

[Sandroad]

150,000 miles without a maintenance/owner history has other risks besides some of the often-cited repairs mentioned above. There is so much that could be needed if neglected for that many miles. On the other hand, it could have been owned by a careful person who did all their own work. The uncertainty on this one could be worth a few thousand in lower value, but I wouldn't worry about calculating it exactly. If you like the truck, get it checked out by an independent mechanic (not the place selling it), do a really thorough test drive, and plan on a super-complete service with all the usual preventive stuff if you get it. Then repair as needed when things come up.

 

[Yossarian]

There is a campaign item on the rear propeller (drive) shaft. After a full stop, when you begin moving again there will be a "thud" in the driveline.

Even out of warranty the dealer should cover it. i.e. no cost to you.

 

[JtFSU]

Have you pulled Carfax? When I was shopping, I noticed that sometimes Carfax had more service details than the Toyota site, even for dealer performed services. Plus it will show a lot of service from independent shops. Something the Toyota site doesn’t show.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Starter, water pump, idler pulleys, belt tensioner, alternator brushes, upper and lower ball joints are the ones that come to mind. We have 150k on our ‘11 and we put 160k on an ‘08 Sequoia and The only ones that actually failed were the water pump and starter.

I’ve heard of the leaving radiator issue but never had any issues with any of my 5.7’s.

 

[Reckless]

I have a 2009 with 200k miles. I would redo suspension with icons if original. Mine is in the shop for tie rods when doing alignment. I never had to worry about radiator/starter/water pump but battery yes. 150k mile service ran me $800.

 

[JtFSU]

I have a 2009 with 200k miles. I would redo suspension with icons if original. Mine is in the shop for tie rods when doing alignment. I never had to worry about radiator/starter/water pump but battery yes. 150k mile service ran me $800.

Are you at 200k on original starter/ water pump/ radiator? Or they were done before you purchased?

 

[Reckless]

Not sure but i believe original. I bought vehicle with 100k miles. Personally I wouldn't sweat maintenance but rust and color. Toyota did make an awesome 200. LC's are somewhat rare and color combo you have to live with for 10+ years if you plan on keeping it.

 

[BluffCruiserDC]

I bought an 09 with about 168k on the ODO. The water pump and radiator had been replaced. The suspension was shot (good excuse to get fancy aftermarket), outer tie rods, and LCA ball joints. I replaced both lower control arms because bushings were shot. Some other bushings look suspect, so I'llwork on replacing those as well.

My LC was in the CA desert much of its life, and the heat was pretty hard on the rubber (and the black paint for that matter). I'll definitely have a few thousand in it when everything is finished. It runs and drives fantastic though. Truly an amazing truck!

Mine had good service records. I got a prepurchase inspection at Toyota and used the failures to negotiate the price. If you can't determine service history, I'd recomend changing all the fluids ASAP.

 

[NHouston]

Bought a 2010 with 172k. One owner and serviced every 5k (have all service records). Toyota recommends oil every 5k, spark plugs at 120k, ATF exchange, coolant change, and driveline fluids changed every 30k if towing. The only thing that mine truck required besides the Toyota recommended PM was new valve cover gaskets at 120k. These are really well built and durable machines.

You can check out my build thread for PM done (The Mall Crusher). I changed radiator, water pump, upper/lower/by-pass coolant hoses, heater T’s, thermostat, alternator, starter, fan clutch, idler, tensioner, serp belt, baselined all fluids, new shocks/struts, new rear rotors, replaced front bumper sensor, PCV Valve, and replaced rear lock actuator. Did this all for peace of mind and safety since this is my wife’s daily driver and our kiddo shuttle bus. Your probably looking at $2500-3000 for proper PM now, but this will set you up well for hopefully many, many trouble free miles to come.

 

[alaubhan]

Want to know more about the LC you plan to buy? Sign up for an account at Toyota.com then use the VIN to check out the service history. If the truck was serviced by the dealer, the records will be available. Worked great for both Toyota and Lexus when looking for my 2008 LC200.

 

[vxlc80]

There is a campaign item on the rear propeller (drive) shaft. After a full stop, when you begin moving again there will be a "thud" in the driveline.

Even out of warranty the dealer should cover it. i.e. no cost to you.

What is the issue of the “thud” sound?

 

[Markuson]

Not sure but i believe original. I bought vehicle with 100k miles. Personally I wouldn't sweat maintenance but rust and color. Toyota did make an awesome 200. LC's are somewhat rare and color combo you have to live with for 10+ years if you plan on keeping it.

I would be surprised if a 2009 made it to 150k and 10 years without replacing radiator, starter & water pump. Perhaps Toyota can tell if they’ve been swapped out.

If not...on the radiator, look at the top panel where the part label is...and look for the beginnings of a hairline crack. Normal for it to fail by now.

 

[audyssey]

I have a new to me 2009 LC with 180K miles. From what i can tell on the service records it's still on the original radiator. This was a Reno, NV car for the first 9 years of its life. PPI from the dealership didn't indicate that the radiator needs to be replaced yet.

I will be changing the radiator and water pump soon. Then maybe tackle the starter after.

 

[Reckless]

I would be surprised if a 2009 made it to 150k and 10 years without replacing radiator, starter & water pump. Perhaps Toyota can tell if they’ve been swapped out.

If not...on the radiator, look at the top panel where the part label is...and look for the beginnings of a hairline crack. Normal for it to fail by now.

I called toyota to see if it was covered under some kind of warranty and they show it wasn't changed at a Toyota dealer (I am due for that passenger seat airbag issue once they figure it out). I didn't ask about water pump or starter it wasn't on carfax when I bought the vehicle and I haven't changed water pump. I am not sure if we did starter but have done a bunch of batteries. My mileage was 214K when I notice Radiator leak same time battery went out and replaced it. Mechanic said it was original (I asked twice as I had a hard time believing it). I thought my abuse to the vehicle at high speeds for long periods constantly would wear things out sooner. New radiator is causing engine temperature gauge to go 35-40%. Previously it was closer to 50%.

 

[Yossarian]

What is the issue of the “thud” sound?

Something about tolerances, to tight maybe? Search for earlier threads on the subject, known issue on the 1st gen 200's.