Post your wheeling damage pics (4 Viewers)

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I just realized I need to follow up on my last damage report. But for now, I thought I would share my damage from last weekend.

This should drop you right where I broke and what we did to get off the trail.

Front locker?
 
Great job pushing the envelop. Every time I see a 200-series eat a CV, it's in full droop with really not so much power that it would be expected. I know we generally don't use diff drops but I'm starting to think those with really long droop travel on the front may warrant a diff drop? Caster and alignment play into this as well but I don't have a grasp on what is too much yet.
No.

 


I've watched his content and very much agree with his points. That said, it's a balance of trades. The current prevailing thinking is not to do a diff drop on the 200-series.

Eating CVs under less than full send it not a great option either.

To the point of diff drops reducing clearance - it's a great point. In the context of IFS, it's generally not the lowest point of concern as the rear diff is much lower.

I don't know the answer and playing devils advocate, but any solution to blowing up CVs maybe a compromise: 1) Less droop travel 2) Diff drop and lowering skids 3) Less caster
 
I've watched his content and very much agree with his points. That said, it's a balance of trades. The current prevailing thinking is not to do a diff drop on the 200-series.

Eating CVs under less than full send it not a great option either.

To the point of diff drops reducing clearance - it's a great point. In the context of IFS, it's generally not the lowest point of concern as the rear diff is much lower.

I don't know the answer and playing devils advocate, but any solution to blowing up CVs maybe a compromise: 1) Less droop travel 2) Diff drop and lowering skids 3) Less caster
@YellowJacket what’s your front suspension set up? Do you have any spacers on top of the coilover? Did you ever get the sway bar reattached? It looks like the wheel drooped too far, causing the angle of the axle to become too acute, thus making sudden contact.
 
Yes the bushing should be pressed in. Looks like you need a new drivers side sway bar end link. You might be able to force it back in but I suspect it’ll come back out, most likely the rubber degraded. The part is <$100, use ratchet straps to realign the KDSS arm into place
Anyone know if there's an upgraded (or lengthened?) arm I should go with in place of the factory since I suppose I should be replacing it asap?
I'm surprised it popped out like that? Do you have KDSS relocation?

OEM bushings are usually bonded, so this tore out. Usually there's a backing washer that would still keep links from separating even if the rubber completely fails.
I don't have a KDSS relocation kit. But I've been thinking about it as I am running 35s and considering going to 37s soon.
(I have a good friend who is kind enough to give me his hand-me-downs)
As a quick trail repair before getting a new bushing and washer, I would take the bushing apart and try to move that washer to the other side of the bushing and get the bushing back in place. I would also remove the end link from the LCA and attach the bushing to the end link first and then try to get the end link into the LCA again. Might be easier that way. When doing suspension work, I had to use a crow bar to get mine seated again. You also might wish to open your KDSS valve with a 5mm allen key by 3 turns while you're working on it and then tighten them up again when you're done. Do you have tools with you? Any progress on it since you posted last night?
@Diff Kraken, thank you for asking. I was able to find a nice guy who ran a shop out of his house who had hours till 7pm. I sped over there about 30 min from where we the arm popped out and paid him $40 to use a floor jack, some lube, and some muscle to pop it bad into place with another washer.
tempImageE17ppG.jpg
 
Front locker?
Open currently.

If I had a front locker engaged, if I was bouncing, heavy on the throttle, or turned hard to one way or the other, I would be less surprised about this axle. But I don't think I was really doing any of those things.
@YellowJacket what’s your front suspension set up? Do you have any spacers on top of the coilover? Did you ever get the sway bar reattached? It looks like the wheel drooped too far, causing the angle of the axle to become too acute, thus making sudden contact.
It's just the standard 2.5" OME. I do have the factory Toyota spacer on top of the coilover as well. I finally responded to the last "damage" from a few weeks back above. But yes. I was able to get it reattached so I am not sure that I could have had that much articulation. I am pretty sure I checked that it was still connected even after the axle, but I'll double check in the morning.
 
I just realized I need to follow up on my last damage report. But for now, I thought I would share my damage from last weekend.

This should drop you right where I broke and what we did to get off the trail.

Watching these cv break videos make me wince the same as watching people take joint injuries…. Ugh
 
Open currently.

If I had a front locker engaged, if I was bouncing, heavy on the throttle, or turned hard to one way or the other, I would be less surprised about this axle. But I don't think I was really doing any of those things.

It's just the standard 2.5" OME. I do have the factory Toyota spacer on top of the coilover as well. I finally responded to the last "damage" from a few weeks back above. But yes. I was able to get it reattached so I am not sure that I could have had that much articulation. I am pretty sure I checked that it was still connected even after the axle, but I'll double check in the morning.
After watching the Tinker youtube video above, I think this would not have happened if you did not have the spacer on the coil over. That's a realization I came to last week and made the call not to put spacers on my OME setup. Sorry this happened to you! Keep truckin!
 
After watching the Tinker youtube video above, I think this would not have happened if you did not have the spacer on the coil over. That's a realization I came to last week and made the call not to put spacers on my OME setup. Sorry this happened to you! Keep truckin!
Thanks for sharing that guy's video @Diff Kraken. I am surprised I hadn't seen his stuff yet as it seems like really good stuff. I did go on to watch more of his videos and found this one. It makes me wonder if because my factory OEM spacer is so minimal, maybe it's okay? (I'm super curious now)

This link should drop us right at the 12:31 second mark where it talks specifically about spacers:
 
Thanks for sharing that guy's video @Diff Kraken. I am surprised I hadn't seen his stuff yet as it seems like really good stuff. I did go on to watch more of his videos and found this one. It makes me wonder if because my factory OEM spacer is so minimal, maybe it's okay? (I'm super curious now)

This link should drop us right at the 12:31 second mark where it talks specifically about spacers:

I hear you. I'm curious about this too. What about your UCAs? Are they stock? Aftermarket UCAs can make extra droop sometimes. From his videos I've learned that if you have long travel shocks, with aftermarket UCAs and an OEM 1" spacer, it could put the CV angle at risk of contact. Just to be safe, I've decided to keep OEM UCAs and just the 2" Old Man Emu springs and standard mono shocks to prevent too much droop for the CVs.
 
I hear you. I'm curious about this too. What about your UCAs? Are they stock? Aftermarket UCAs can make extra droop sometimes. From his videos I've learned that if you have long travel shocks, with aftermarket UCAs and an OEM 1" spacer, it could put the CV angle at risk of contact. Just to be safe, I've decided to keep OEM UCAs and just the 2" Old Man Emu springs and standard mono shocks to prevent too much droop for the CVs.
I am going to have to watch this guy's videos more than once or twice. And now I realize why:
"A nerdy mechanical engineer's adventure in 4 wheeling, overlanding and tinkering in the garage."
More technical than I am that's for sure. Super stoked to subscribe however so thank you for sharing.

So I do have the SPC UCAs, stock LCAs. Without locating my Cruiser Outfitter's receipt, I'm pretty sure it's these:

200 Series OEM Front Leveling Spring Spacers- 1/2" set​

1669744216694.png


A little frustrating because I do generally think I want a little more lift and certainly more droop. But I can't keep braking axles. I am not opposed to trimming metal, but I enjoy flex. I guess I have more learning to do.
 
I am going to have to watch this guy's videos more than once or twice. And now I realize why:
"A nerdy mechanical engineer's adventure in 4 wheeling, overlanding and tinkering in the garage."
More technical than I am that's for sure. Super stoked to subscribe however so thank you for sharing.

So I do have the SPC UCAs, stock LCAs. Without locating my Cruiser Outfitter's receipt, I'm pretty sure it's these:

200 Series OEM Front Leveling Spring Spacers- 1/2" set​

View attachment 3180952

A little frustrating because I do generally think I want a little more lift and certainly more droop. But I can't keep braking axles. I am not opposed to trimming metal, but I enjoy flex. I guess I have more learning to do.
I’m sure there’s someone in here who can school me on this stuff if needed- feel free to jump in. It sounds to me like a pretty normal setup that you’re running but I do think that Kai is onto something here and as a result I plan to keep running a very conservative setup. I also tend to feather the throttle. Not that you hammered it. Looked like sane driving. :meh: I suppose another question is the condition of the CV boots before kaboom although it looked like acute angle contact to me.
 
A little frustrating because I do generally think I want a little more lift and certainly more droop. But I can't keep braking axles. I am not opposed to trimming metal, but I enjoy flex. I guess I have more learning to do.

Are you willing to do a Tundra front end swap?
 
I’m sure there’s someone in here who can school me on this stuff if needed- feel free to jump in. It sounds to me like a pretty normal setup that you’re running but I do think that Kai is onto something here and as a result I plan to keep running a very conservative setup. I also tend to feather the throttle. Not that you hammered it. Looked like sane driving. :meh: I suppose another question is the condition of the CV boots before kaboom although it looked like acute angle contact to me.
I thought I was being careful regarding the driving (although I still shouldn't have been on that obstacle) but I am now going to be even more careful and also carry a spare CV from now on. I think the only other thing I could add is that the CV boot was sealed and the vehicle has 160k on it. I could hope that it was a fluke and/or the CV was somehow already weak.
 
Are you willing to do a Tundra front end swap?
I'm certainly not opposed it. When I was first looking into it last year, I remember wishing there was a kit put together to purchase. But maybe now I need to study the pros and cons more closely.
 
no harm in giving it a shot. stuff breaks.

+1

I think we all winced for you but kudos to getting out there and finding the limit. The community learns a lot from it—even if it's at your expense (sorry 🙃)
 
Thanks for sharing that guy's video @Diff Kraken. I am surprised I hadn't seen his stuff yet as it seems like really good stuff. I did go on to watch more of his videos and found this one. It makes me wonder if because my factory OEM spacer is so minimal, maybe it's okay? (I'm super curious now)

This link should drop us right at the 12:31 second mark where it talks specifically about spacers:

I removed my factory spacer on top of the OME lift. I used to run it but then found out with the extension of the lift droop that with the spacer the shock was actually hitting the frame and rubbing the frame at full droop.
 

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