Popping sound under passenger side footwell on 75 series Troopy (1 Viewer)

[Honger]

Yeah, honestly, you can't hear the actual knocking in that video at all... not even in a muffled manner.

I was just hoping that I'd see something that I could correlate to knowing when it was knocking. I can't see anything out of the ordinary.

And it's kind of mesmerizing watching the suspension cycle...

 

[Felde]

Real cool video. I watched it several times and zoomed on different spots. But I didn't see anything suspicious.
It's from the front, though. Probably the issue is further back, closer to the footwell?
And I don't think that slide piece hangig out is the issue. Would perhaps squeak a bit, but rather not clonc.

 

[Felde]

This is what I believe causes a noise on my rig: The 2nd spring blade is occasiinally moving horizontal and rubs on the 1st spring blade which forms the loop for the bushing.
When dusty I can even see the marks where it rubs. No solution for that, though (other than MOS2-grease).

Another thing was my sway bar connector. But you say you had it ruled out already, right?
Good Luck Ralf

 

[FionnBG]

Hello everyone,
I have been quite busy with university and work over the last few nights and have struggled to find the time to get back to all of the useful comments that have been posted to this thread - but I have read them all and really really appreciate it, so thanks!


Earlier today I found the time to install new engine mounts, which I have been dreading for a while. Some of you guys gave me the courage to go for it and it was actually quite easy, so I will give a quick run down just in case someone reading this wants to swap 1HZ engine mounts themselves. I unbolted the fan shroud, removed the alternator and disconnected the air box. From then on it was as simple as unbolting the two trans mounts located on the cross-member, unbolting the bottom of the engine mounts and placing a floor-jack with some nice blocks of wood at the front of the sump. The engine moved up nicely and the only issue I came across was the exhaust hits part of the body just next to the manifold. This causes the engine to rotate in the clockwise direction and makes the left mount (facing the back) difficult to remove.

After this, it is as simple as sliding the old engine mounts down and ensuring the bottom stud of the mount lines up nicely with the chassis brackets. Once they do, finger-tighten the mount at the top and drop the engine back down. Tighten everything back up and you're good to go.

If any of you decide to do this yourself, I have a couple of warnings for you:

- When jacking up the engine keep an eye on the power steering hoses directly where they come out of the pump (1HZ). They have metal ends and are quite short so you could damage them if you are not careful. If you have problems here, unbolt the bracket for the hoses directly next to the radiator and some of the tension should be alleviated.

- CHECK THE TOP OF THE BELL HOUSING
Please please please check the top of the bell housing! I was about the continue jacking the engine up when I realised I had some hoses and electrical wires running just above the bell housing and I almost crushed them. Don't make this mistake. Just a ton of extra headaches to figure out if you do.

Ok onto the results. From what I can say it is instantly noticeable; the vibration inside the cab is 0.5x what it was before. This is making the vehicle much more pleasant to operate, so I definitely recommend replacing them if your vehicle is old. I picked my new mounts up from auto parts online for $40 which is a killer deal.

I have driven the vehicle for about 35 mins and it has not clunked!! This leads me to believe that the issue is fixed - which is freaking awesome. I still have some pops here and there from the leaves but that is to be expected and there isn't much I can do without replacing them.

The vehicle appears to be easier to shift - I still do not know how mounts could change this...

From what I can say replacing trans and engine mounts are easily one of the best improvements to my 70 series so far. It is a quick way to make your ride more comfortable and breathe some life back into it.

Hope that is useful!

Here she is!

 

[FionnBG]

This is what I believe causes a noise on my rig: The 2nd spring blade is occasiinally moving horizontal and rubs on the 1st spring blade which forms the loop for the bushing.
When dusty I can even see the marks where it rubs. No solution for that, though (other than MOS2-grease).
View attachment 3119375
Another thing was my sway bar connector. But you say you had it ruled out already, right?
Good Luck Ralf

I've got video proof of this happening. Its not the cause of the clunk im talking about but super annoying. you can feel it in the steering!

 

[Felde]

Great writeup. Thank you.
Fingers crossed the issue is fixed.
Cheers Ralf

 

[sodafeld1]

Great writeup. Thank you.
Fingers crossed the issue is fixed.
Cheers Ralf

mesmerizing vid. You can see the engine lift a tad at 1:40ish. Maybe springs, things need a bit of lube, but does look ok.

I am about to take my springs out and clean them up. The front spring shackle eyelet mount is a known rust holder and wortwhile cleaning it up and keeping in check.

 

[Honger]

This is what I believe causes a noise on my rig: The 2nd spring blade is occasiinally moving horizontal and rubs on the 1st spring blade which forms the loop for the bushing.
When dusty I can even see the marks where it rubs. No solution for that, though (other than MOS2-grease).
View attachment 3119375
Another thing was my sway bar connector. But you say you had it ruled out already, right?
Good Luck Ralf

I need to check this area out... and maybe run my video from the rear...

 

[RHINO]

I'd watch another vid

 

[sodafeld1]

I'd watch another vid

x2 , want to do a vid too but used gopro's get sold pretty quick on ebay..

 

[roscoFJ73]

I couldnt discern the noise in the video. I did have some popping noises in my 75 series and 73 series. Both times it was the door hinges. As the hinges wear , the doors rub against the body as the body is twisted by the stresses of driving.
The easiest way to test the hinges is to place your hand under the bottom of the door and lift up. If it is has 10-15mm play, you need new hinges.

 

[lacalvette]

I couldnt discern the noise in the video. I did have some popping noises in my 75 series and 73 series. Both times it was the door hinges. As the hinges wear , the doors rub against the body as the body is twisted by the stresses of driving.
The easiest way to test the hinges is to place your hand under the bottom of the door and lift up. If it is has 10-15mm play, you need new hinges.

Have you use a repair kit? I repaired the hinge on my sienna using a doorman kit(bolt with copper bushing) but never found a kit for landcruiser??

 

[roscoFJ73]

I bought new hinges

 

[Felde]

I need to check this area out... and maybe run my video from the rear...

I figured the sideways move of the 2nd layer spring is normal and has to be that way.

 

[sodafeld1]

I wonder if there is a way to add a type of clamping bracket so leaf springs don't slip sideways?

They come with some clamping brackets, but the front of the springs must get a fair bit of sideways force placed on them...
aftermarket clamps are available..
maybe jamming in some teflon shim with a clamp would help too. After all, we just want them to bounce up and down, not sideways.

I looked into refreshing old springs, but the cost was close to buying new springs, mostly wages.

I guess that is why they moved to coil springs, kind of still prefer leaves tho. Coil spring compressors scare the bejesz out of me, pussy I am.

Ye Old horse cart style suspension we have.