The igniter sits on top of the coil. I upgraded my '77 ignition that had points to a '78 set up. The only issue I have ever had was my coil went bad. It's also important for the igniter to be grounded properly. It sounds like your rig was taken apart at some point, I would pull the coil and igniter and make sure you have clean grounds and that none of your wires are frayed. If you aren't getting any spark, it could be a bad Igniter, or a bad coil, or a bad pickup in the distributor. Test each one to see which one is actually bad. There are no serviceable parts in the igniter but the coil can be replaced.
Points and Condenser (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JC39232
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Wanted to revive an old thread to get some more info.
1978 2F desmogged.
I found a pertronix kit for the distributor in the spare parts bins I got when I bought my rig several years back. Doing some reading about dizzys and the changes over the years has added a little confusion to what I have. Hoping to help get some questions answered by people smarter than I.
Why are you dropping in a pertronix kit into a 78 dizzy you may ask? Well I have points in this dizzy and the points are getting worn and I figured I could replace the worn points with the kit. I just spent a couple hours removing some stuff and losing the tiny screws under the internal condenser and decided to put everything back before I lost daylight.
So, what dizzy do I have (I don't think it's the style dizzy that came with the truck ie it's earlier), and can I drop in this particular kit once I remove the points and condenser? It seemed the plate that drops in only has one screw down point and everything looked a little different than a previius writeup that I'd seen so I wanted to get a little more info before I tried all this and got stuck without a running rig after dark..and lost more screws.
1978 2F desmogged.
I found a pertronix kit for the distributor in the spare parts bins I got when I bought my rig several years back. Doing some reading about dizzys and the changes over the years has added a little confusion to what I have. Hoping to help get some questions answered by people smarter than I.
Why are you dropping in a pertronix kit into a 78 dizzy you may ask? Well I have points in this dizzy and the points are getting worn and I figured I could replace the worn points with the kit. I just spent a couple hours removing some stuff and losing the tiny screws under the internal condenser and decided to put everything back before I lost daylight.
So, what dizzy do I have (I don't think it's the style dizzy that came with the truck ie it's earlier), and can I drop in this particular kit once I remove the points and condenser? It seemed the plate that drops in only has one screw down point and everything looked a little different than a previius writeup that I'd seen so I wanted to get a little more info before I tried all this and got stuck without a running rig after dark..and lost more screws.
Isn't there supposed to be a black wheel that fits over the points cam rotor for the petronix? or does the lobes on the rotor do the triggering? Sorry, I'm not sure what dizzy you have there.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Sorry ya the black cylinder thing I do have, not pictured.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
It's a non-US 2F distributor, Part Number 19100-61080. It has a later type vacuum advance advancer, an octane selector, the breaker plate is a different type than the similar (but earlier) F engine vacuum advance distributor, and the distributor cap hold down clamp on the left side of the photo is different than the clamp on the earlier F engine distributors.
First, with a Pertronix set-up, you don't use the condenser.
Second, the outer, stationary, part of the breaker plate you have is the same as the early F engine distributors. So an early F complete breaker plate will swap right over. Then you could get a Pertronix for that distributor.
I've been doing the opposite on my most recent distributor refurbishments - swapping the inner part of the breaker plate from other non-Land Cruiser Toyota distributors (they're the same part used on your non-US distributor) into the early F distributors that will allow you to use the later type, easier to adjust points used on the 1/75 through 9/77 2F distributors. The photo below shows the difference - the distributor on the left has the early type set-up, the one on the right has the later type, identical to yours. BTW, both distributors have the earlier type advancer and the earlier type distributor cap clamps.
First, with a Pertronix set-up, you don't use the condenser.
Second, the outer, stationary, part of the breaker plate you have is the same as the early F engine distributors. So an early F complete breaker plate will swap right over. Then you could get a Pertronix for that distributor.
I've been doing the opposite on my most recent distributor refurbishments - swapping the inner part of the breaker plate from other non-Land Cruiser Toyota distributors (they're the same part used on your non-US distributor) into the early F distributors that will allow you to use the later type, easier to adjust points used on the 1/75 through 9/77 2F distributors. The photo below shows the difference - the distributor on the left has the early type set-up, the one on the right has the later type, identical to yours. BTW, both distributors have the earlier type advancer and the earlier type distributor cap clamps.
While on the topic of distributors: 029100-2370 distributor off of an F engine (SOR says the engine is a '72, but it comes out of a 1967 FJ40). I have a Manafre HEI unit with vacuum advance in the engine now, but not convinced the accel curves are optimal (probably for a 2F?). Is Pertronix the best upgrade for these still available, or is there a better path available in this day and age? Vacuum retard/advance options?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
That's a vacuum retard distributor that can't be modified to vacuum advance.
If you want to go with a Toyota distributor there are many options, both points and electronic.
Early F engine distributor - can be set up with two different types of points (see my Post #26 above) or with Pertronix. For the points options, you can use either a condenser (internal or external) or a 1/75 through 9/77 2F coil/igniter. For Pertronix, you just need a coil. These are vacuum advance.
1/75 through 9/77 2F engine distributor - can be set up with points, Pertronix, or Toyota electronic ignition (I've recently upgraded several of these from points to electronic ignition - (Distributor Tech - '75 through '77 Conversion to Electronic Ignition Using Toyota/NipponDenso Parts - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/distributor-tech-75-through-77-conversion-to-electronic-ignition-using-toyota-nippondenso-parts.1240137/). For the points options, you can use either a condenser (external) or a 1/75 through 9/77 2F coil/igniter. For Pertronix, you just need a coil. For the Toyota electronic ignition you need to use a 9/77 through 8/87 2F coil/igniter (or one of several other Toyota coil/igniters). The 1/75 through 8/76 are vacuum retard, but can easily be converted to vacuum advance (I've converted several of these, and I've sold several new NipponDenso advancers here on MUD for those who did the conversion themselves). The 8/76 through 9/77 are vacuum advance.
9/77 through 8/80 2F engine distributor - these have Toyota electronic ignition, you need to use a 9/77 through 8/87 2F coil/igniter (or one of several other Toyota coil/igniters). The 9/77 through 1/79 are vacuum advance and retard. The 1/79 through 8/80 are vacuum advance and have a second diaphragm for high altitude compensation. Any of these can be modified to single diaphragm vacuum advance if the original advancers are bad.
8/80 through 8/87 2F engine distributor - these have Toyota electronic ignition, you need to use a 9/77 through 8/87 2F coil/igniter (or one of several other Toyota coil/igniters). These are vacuum advance and have a second diaphragm for high altitude compensation, and can be modified to single diaphragm vacuum advance if the original advancers are bad. I've even converted one of these to points for another MUD member. They use a sealed bearing at the top of the shaft, all earlier F and 2F distributors use bushings. A dented side cover is needed for these.
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JustJay
SILVER Star
Jumping on this older thread. Seems like an old enough thread that I'm not hijacking. I'm looking to replace the points on my distributor but can't seem to find the right one. I'm just getting acquainted with this 40 as its new to me and I'm new to 40 community. I do know that the truck is a 72' that was "upgraded" with a 2F engine that is circa 76'. So, not sure what the distributor is. Can anyone "point" (Ok, that was bad) me in the right direction as to if this is OEM or where I might be able to find the right points?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
That looks like a '78 2F distributor. The screw secured cap started in 9/77, and the 9/77 through 1/79 had vacuum advance and retard. Starting in 1/79, the 2F distributor had vacuum advance with an additional diaphragm for high altitude compensation. BTW, the above information is for Federal spec US market distributors.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
There are no points in that distributor. It has electronic ignition.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
You can check the functionality of the signal generator in the distributor by measuring the resistance at the two terminals in the distributor's wiring connecter, it should read between 100 and 200 ohms. You can also check the functionality of the vacuum advancer by applying vacuum to the advancer's outer nipple, the diaphragm should hold vacuum and the breaker plate should rotate counterclockwise by about 4mm.
JustJay
SILVER Star
Yep, that makes sense. I knew I could count on mud to educate me.
JustJay
SILVER Star
Yep, that’s the one. Great place to live.
simply put ....
