Please help me diagnose my sick wench - I mean winch.

[AdventureBuddies]

Warn M12000. Spools out no problem. Won't spool in. When I toggle the remote to "spool in" there is an audible click at the winch, but no movement. If I knock around on it for a bit while holding the toggle to "spool in" then it runs until I let go of the toggle, but won't start again unless I knock on it more.

Any thoughts? Disassemble and clean? Order new parts?

 

[flintknapper]

Warn M12000. Spools out no problem. Won't spool in. When I toggle the remote to "spool in" there is an audible click at the winch, but no movement. If I knock around on it for a bit while holding the toggle to "spool in" then it runs until I let go of the toggle, but won't start again unless I knock on it more.

Any thoughts? Disassemble and clean? Order new parts?

Do you know someone with a "known to be good" hand controller that you can use to eliminate the possibility of problem there.

Next, I would suspect a faulty solenoid, or poor connection in the control box itself.

Let us know.

 

[AdventureBuddies]

Do you know someone with a "known to be good" hand controller that you can use to eliminate the possibility of problem there.

Next, I would suspect a faulty solenoid, or poor connection in the control box itself.

Let us know.

I don't know anyone with a known good hand control but I agree that should be the place to start troubleshooting. I have only gotten so far as to clean the contacts for the main power connections. If I flick the swith rapidly multiple times it eventually starts so maybe the switch is faulty and it's coincidental that knocking on the winch made it work. I will disassemble the switch tomorrow.

 

[flintknapper]

I don't know anyone with a known good hand control but I agree that should be the place to start troubleshooting. I have only gotten so far as to clean the contacts for the main power connections. If I flick the swith rapidly multiple times it eventually starts so maybe the switch is faulty and it's coincidental that knocking on the winch made it work. I will disassemble the switch tomorrow.

If you have a multi-meter (volt/ohm) you can "bench check" the hand controller for continuity in both directions and eliminate that.

Alternately, you could use a set of jumper wires to activate the solenoids (forward and reverse). That would tell you if your problem was in that area.

The 'intermittent" operation makes me think the problem is the switch on the hand controller (or a broken wire). Solenoids tend to work or not work.

 

[dfmorse]

Adv...


The two primary fault locations are the hand control unit connector and the connector on the solenoid control unit.

The connector on the solenoid control unit is a crappy connector with cold solder joints from Warn. The hand controller and its solder joints at the connector are also poorly done. I have had to cut open these connectors to find the problems, which is not fun. The problem, after using a dremel tool to cut the connector apart, is a frayed wire at the connector pin which makes intermittent contact with the pin.

As u can see, the hand held unit is a sealed unit and is probably ok. I have never had this unit fail on me.

But the cheap connector Warn puts on these winches is a PITA.

The solenoids are quite good and water proof.

So, I rebuilt the whole connector system with a mil-spec connector, as per this:

Winch on Steves 94-FZJ80

...

 

[AdventureBuddies]

great thoughts. thanks. i'll let you know what i discover.

 

[AdventureBuddies]

Adv...


The two primary fault locations are the hand control unit connector and the connector on the solenoid control unit.

The connector on the solenoid control unit is a crappy connector with cold solder joints from Warn. The hand controller and its solder joints at the connector are also poorly done. I have had to cut open these connectors to find the problems, which is not fun. The problem, after using a dremel tool to cut the connector apart, is a frayed wire at the connector pin which makes intermittent contact with the pin.

As u can see, the hand held unit is a sealed unit and is probably ok. I have never had this unit fail on me.

But the cheap connector Warn puts on these winches is a PITA.

The solenoids are quite good and water proof.

So, I rebuilt the whole connector system with a mil-spec connector, as per this:

Winch on Steves 94-FZJ80

...

If I do determine that the hand control is at fault, is there any wisdom in bypassing the hand control all together and using the antenna switch mod for interior controls instead of fixing the hand control?

 

[flintknapper]

If I do determine that the hand control is at fault, is there any wisdom in bypassing the hand control all together and using the antenna switch mod for interior controls instead of fixing the hand control?

"In Cab" controls...while handy, do not give you the latitude the hand controller does.

You can always take the hand control inside the vehicle, but you can't take the dash control outside. Too often...you'll need to be outside the vehicle in order to be aware of obstructions, plot your course, observe progress, or just for safety's sake, etc...

I do like "In Cab" controls as an "option"...but I wouldn't recommend it as a full time (and only) feature.

Just my thoughts on it.

 

[AdventureBuddies]

"In Cab" controls...while handy, do not give you the latitude the hand controller does.

You can always take the hand control inside the vehicle, but you can't take the dash control outside. Too often...you'll need to be outside the vehicle in order to be aware of obstructions, plot your course, observe progress, or just for safety's sake, etc...

I do like "In Cab" controls as an "option"...but I wouldn't recommend it as a full time (and only) feature.

Just my thoughts on it.

Good input. I was leaning that way for the same reasons. Thanks. Today I disconnected, inspected, and cleaned all of the contacts on the winch side (control and power to solenoids). Nothing Changed. Haven't looked and the hand control side yet.

 

[flintknapper]

Good input. I was leaning that way for the same reasons. Thanks. Today I disconnected, inspected, and cleaned all of the contacts on the winch side (control and power to solenoids). Nothing Changed. Haven't looked and the hand control side yet.

Do you have a "Wheeling buddy" that might have the same control?

If not, I'll bet any Warn dealer (with one in stock) would let you hook one up for a minute to test if thats the problem.

 

[73fj]

I'm betting solenoids, my 8274 did exactly the same thing, put some new solenoids in, perfect.

 

[the truck doctor]

I am a truck accessory installer and rebuild these things all the time . your problem is a bad solenoid, you should go ahead and replace all 4 of them at once to eliminate the hassle of dissasembly more than once. make sure to replace one pack at a time so you dont lose track of wire location. but looosen all the nuts on all solenoids first, this helps the process, then when you have replaced all solenoids thigten all nuts 1/2" & 10mm .test before you replace cover the iff all goes well replace cover ,your done

 

[jonheld]

One of the problems with the Warn solenoid box is that it is very exposed to the elements, however the solenoids themselves are potted (sealed). Before replacing the solenoids, it would be prudent to remove the cover and clean up the terminals using a brass bristle brush, some fine emery cloth, and some dielectric or moly grease on re-assembly. Spend some time and replace the ring terminals on the control wiring and solder them in addition to crimping. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE POWER FROM THE BATTERY FIRST.

This, along with cleaning up the high current terminals on the winch and solenoid box, removing and re-packing the gear train, removing and repacking the motor and brake housing went a long way on my older M12K. She’s nice and quiet and works like new.

 

[FJ40_owner]

Jumpering 12 volts + to the solenoids is easy. There are 2 solenoids for in and two for out. Be sure to jumper only two at a time. If each pair of solenoids make then are they switching voltage AND current to the motor? A solenoid can switch voltage but not high current due to a pitted contact.

If you are brave you could jumper the two sets of solenoid contacts using a jumper cable. This will determine if your winch motor is good.

All in all the control circuitry is very simple. I would look for corroded connctions first and like I wrote it is easy to bypass the hand held controller. Then it is a matter of its either the solenoids or the motor.

Good luck.

JB