Piping an Air Compressor

[Cruiserdrew]

If this should be in chat please move, but there have been other discussions of shop set up previously.

I have been wanting a compressor for years and out of the blue, I was given one by a non-4wheeling friend. It's a ten year old "Speedaire" with a 30 gallon tank and a cast iron compressor that was just rebuilt. Obviously, this is not a huge compressor, but it's free, and will get me started down the air powered path. I need to pipe some air lines to the rest of my garage, and after searching this topic, I'll use copper pipe, not PVC.

Here are some random questions:

Where do you get the fittings to sweat pipe threads on to copper pipe?

With the pipe nearly in place and near the wall, how do you keep from burning down the house when you sweat it together?

What size pipe (1/2 or 3/4 or larger)) is reccomended?

How do I make the business end flexible enough to add more hardware later, like regulators and additional outlets?

What sort of drain fittings should I use to keep the water drained out of the lines? I'll do the inverted "u" like I saw posted by others.

How do I hook the compressor to the copper line?

Right now there is a pressure regulator at the tank outlet-do I also need to regulate pressure at the end of the pipe?

Many thanks. Based on what I saw in the search, I bought an IR 231c as my first air tool. I'm thinking cutoff tool and air ratchet next. There are many informative posts by Tools R Us and others in the archives-thanks to all.

 

[alia176]

Andy,

Congrats dude, that's the best kind of score! If you don't have your heart set on copper, you *could* use PVC and it's easier to work with. I think they have a burst pressure of 300 psi.

The simplest and most cost effective water separator is to run two very long vertical pieces of pipes right after the compressor outlet; sort of like a tall U with the drain in the middle of the horizontal part. Your air path continues on from the right tip of the U to other parts of the garage. Be sure to run a short run

length of rubber hose from the compressor to the PVC pipe to protect against vibration.

As far as connectors, you have plenty of options in the plumbing isle for threading air fittings every couple of feet into your system if you desire.

Have two sources of air in your garage: lubricated and non lubricated. All of your air tools use the lubricated line so that you don't have to worry about manually lube your tools on every usage. Non lube air is for inflation, painting, low pressure clean off nozzle, etc.

Anyway, my .02 cents worth. IR231c, NICE!

Ali

 

[Koffer]

I just hooked mine up and had to hit the HomeDepot . All I got to say is "HOLYSHEET" copper is crazy priced right now at $27+ a 10 foot stick for the cheap red stuff and like $38 for the blue in 3/4 in so I went the water seperator screwed into the tank, regulator then a quick coupler with 2 $10 50foot hoses .
I also got a 3/4" hot water SS braided hose to hook the compressor to the tank as moron (read as me) bent the line when moving the unit and it had a flare fitting with a compression ferel in it from when it was made in the 70s . One jackass setup that wouldnt tighten and wouldnt seal so i ditched it
Heres a pix of the setup (missing the reg at the moment)

 

[Rich]

I embedded some answers below in yellow font.

If this should be in chat please move, but there have been other discussions of shop set up previously.

I have been wanting a compressor for years and out of the blue, I was given one by a non-4wheeling friend. It's a ten year old "Speedaire" with a 30 gallon tank and a cast iron compressor that was just rebuilt. Obviously, this is not a huge compressor, but it's free, and will get me started down the air powered path. I need to pipe some air lines to the rest of my garage, and after searching this topic, I'll use copper pipe, not PVC.

Here are some random questions:

Where do you get the fittings to sweat pipe threads on to copper pipe?
Hardware store, Home Depot, or find a commercial plumbing supply house.

With the pipe nearly in place and near the wall, how do you keep from burning down the house when you sweat it together?
Get a piece of sheet metal that you can hold between the pipe and the wall while you are soldering the fittings

What size pipe (1/2 or 3/4 or larger)) is recommended?
Do some research. The proper pipe diameter will be dependent on the total length of pipe and the desired flow of air in cubic feet per minute. The objective is to design for a targeted allowable pressure drop. Same concept as in wiring where the total current, length of wire, and acceptable voltage drop determines the appropriate wire gauge.

How do I make the business end flexible enough to add more hardware later, like regulators and additional outlets?
It's copper. You can always cut off the end cap and solder on more pipe, fittings, etc.

What sort of drain fittings should I use to keep the water drained out of the lines? I'll do the inverted "u" like I saw posted by others.

How do I hook the compressor to the copper line?

Right now there is a pressure regulator at the tank outlet-do I also need to regulate pressure at the end of the pipe?
Depends on your needs. If you want to easily switch between tools that require different pressures, then separate regulators at each point of attachment is very convenient. If you want to minimize the water going through your tools, and definitely if you want to spray paint, you need a water separator at point of attachment.

Many thanks. Based on what I saw in the search, I bought an IR 231c as my first air tool. I'm thinking cutoff tool and air ratchet next. There are many informative posts by Tools R Us and others in the archives-thanks to all.

 

[Pin_Head]

Personally, I wouldn't bother plumbing hard lines. Just put a QD connector on it and get some hoses and run it.

 

[Koffer]

Andy,
If you don't have your heart set on copper, you *could* use PVC and it's easier to work with. I think they have a burst pressure of 300 psi.

Ali

I thought about this untill 2 weeks ago when I took a piece of SCH40 that was at least 75deg and smacked it on the concrete .I watched it bust into a bunch of little sharp pieces and shoot all over the shop . This was what did it for me and took that idea off the table .
The next thing Im thinking about is maybe PEX tubling but from what Ive found so far (just looked for a minute today) is its listed for only 100PSI .

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks Dudes. Definitely going copper-even all 1 inch tube will still be less than $100. I don't want to worry about flying shards. I was at HD today and the sweatable threaded fittings are very large-like 1/2 NPT. I guess that's OK given that adapters are widely available. I'll also likely do 3/4 tube.

For starters, I am just running the hose right off the reg at the tank and oiling when I use it. I like the idea of oiled and non-oiled lines.

I won't be doing any painting for at least a year, so the moisture thing I hope can be handled by appropriate copper tube and drains.

 

[Cube Dweller]

Andy, call or PM me if you need copper pipe fitting tools. I have cutters, torches, etc. Though it will prob cost more in gas than to just buy a cheap tubing cutter at the depot.

It's also worth a trip to harbor freight to check out the regulator/seperator combo's they have there. You can also pickup a bucket of quick release fittings- they carry decent ones.

One easy way to leave room for additional lines or fittings to make up your last QD point in a T, then add another short section of pipe, then cap it. Then you can just cut off the cap and add a coupling later should you choose.

 

[brownbear]

Commercial shops don't use copper, the air lines I have seen plumbed around hangars is iron pipe with threaded ends.

If it was a small garage I would just use rubber airline on a hose reel. Save the projects for the Cruiser. But hey a good set up garage is nice.

 

[VETTE60]

yeah, it your shop that huge that a 50' rubber hose on a reel wont work? i say dont waste your time and money. i run the water seperator/oiler/regulator combo from HF. it was about $20. and just have a seperate line for non oiled air. no big deal. the reason shops pre-plumb lines is because they are big, and have multiple air operations going on at once. plus, tell me you have been to a shop, and NOT heard air leaking from their plumbing all day long....

 

[VETTE60]

OH, and if you do sweat copper, put a scrap peice of Gypsum board (drywall) behind the pipe as you sweat it, or you can use tile board. the paper may scorch, but the gypsum has water content in it and won't burn.

 

[Rich]

The disadvantage to just using a longer length of rubber hose is that, due to the smaller diameter, rubber hose is much more restrictive to air flow than properly sized pipe. Using an exessive length of hose results in much greater pressure drop at the tool.

 

[rockclmbr]

For FYI, I placed my compressor out in the shed, ran conduit underground and into the garage with a 350psi hose inside the conduit. The total run is around 125 feet and the pressure drop is around 15 psi. It is ok for most of the stuff I do, but if I need more, I just hook up directly to the compressor with a 25' hose.

Do I regret it, yes/no. It only cost me $15 worth of Harbor Frieght air line. But I do lose some PSI.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Commercial shops don't use copper, the air lines I have seen plumbed around hangars is iron pipe with threaded ends.

If it was a small garage I would just use rubber airline on a hose reel. Save the projects for the Cruiser. But hey a good set up garage is nice.

It may be more accurate to say some commercial applications use black iron. I'm used to seeing copper in commercial applications, with the possiable exception of long runs. Copper is a lot easier to work than black iron.

 

[450 DUDE]

I plumbed my garage with type L 1/2 copper works perfect.

ken

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Went to HD today and dropped some coin on the "blue" label 3/4 copper. I didn't get enough to finish the job, but I did get enough to get started. I've never sweated copper before so it should be interesting! The guys at the compressor store were very helpful and even gave me a diagram of how they do thier commercial installs.

Anyway, I was using my new cut-off tool today to cut some bad welds out of my spare frame. My compressor really works to keep up. I'm thinking I'll get it all piped properly and get a bigger compressor in a year or so. I'm thinking that between a compressor, welder, plasma cutter, and all the stuff that goes with it, you can drop some real $$.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Went to HD today and dropped some coin on the "blue" label 3/4 copper. I didn't get enough to finish the job, but I did get enough to get started. I've never sweated copper before so it should be interesting! The guys at the compressor store were very helpful and even gave me a diagram of how they do thier commercial installs.

Anyway, I was using my new cut-off tool today to cut some bad welds out of my spare frame. My compressor really works to keep up. I'm thinking I'll get it all piped properly and get a bigger compressor in a year or so. I'm thinking that between a compressor, welder, plasma cutter, and all the stuff that goes with it, you can drop some real $$.

Soldering tips;
Clean both surfaces with steel wool or sand paper until they are bright.

Use plenty of flux

Heat the metal not the solder. Apply the flame to the side of the fitting away from the solder. Hold the solder on the fitting until it flows then run it around the joint.

Wipe excess solder off with a dry rag.

To solder up small pieces lay them out on a 12"X12" tile. I do this to make up the ell's and couplers for quick connects then just do the last tee joint in place.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Thanks Rusty! I was going to lay out the first 2 "runs" then solder and mount. The others will be done in place. Appreciate the soldering tips. I'm assuming you use a propane torch. I also have MAPP gas, is that too hot?

I also got a steel wire brush tool for 3/4 inch copper-I didn't think about steel wool.

I'm no plumber, obviously, but what is the difference between the blue and the red label copper? The blue is more $$, but is it better pipe?

 

[Cube Dweller]

Thanks Rusty! I was going to lay out the first 2 "runs" then solder and mount. The others will be done in place. Appreciate the soldering tips. I'm assuming you use a propane torch. I also have MAPP gas, is that too hot?

I also got a steel wire brush tool for 3/4 inch copper-I didn't think about steel wool.

I'm no plumber, obviously, but what is the difference between the blue and the red label copper? The blue is more $$, but is it better pipe?

Blue is thicker wall. I don't know the code for which is acceptable for air lines. You might even need to silver solder air for code in CA, not sure. Use plumbers cloth to clean the outside, it's fast. Use flux on both the fitting and the pipe. Mapp can work but you do need to be cautious about getting it too hot, otherwise the solder will not flow well.

My pop has been a pipefitter for 30 years He learned me a little, enough to do basic stuff.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Blue is thicker wall. I don't know the code for which is acceptable for air lines. You might even need to silver solder air for code in CA, not sure. Use plumbers cloth to clean the outside, it's fast. Use flux on both the fitting and the pipe. Mapp can work but you do need to be cautious about getting it too hot, otherwise the solder will not flow well.

My pop has been a pipefitter for 30 years He learned me a little, enough to do basic stuff.

Do they even sell tin/lead solder in the home stores anymore?