PabloCruise
SILVER Star
rgentry said:
Haven't run it at all, didn't like the feel of the pre-load. Just trying to figure out how to un-fuq it...
pinion shaft play
- Thread starter Devils Paw 80
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Haven't run it at all, didn't like the feel of the pre-load. Just trying to figure out how to un-fuq it...
X2
You might have gotten a bit carried away with the impact (just cuz they are fun to use). If the nut on the end wasn't loose and the bearing was fine, I would be amazed if anything was bad with the shims. Just loosen it, torque it properly and try it again. You might get lucky.
Not a problem with the transfer case output Just torque the nut (but don't use the impact).
You might have gotten a bit carried away with the impact (just cuz they are fun to use). If the nut on the end wasn't loose and the bearing was fine, I would be amazed if anything was bad with the shims. Just loosen it, torque it properly and try it again. You might get lucky.
Not a problem with the transfer case output Just torque the nut (but don't use the impact).
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I'll right, I will step away from the impact wrench...
They are fun, and I figured, WTF, 150 ft-lbs, what if I go a little over...
The shim did look a little deformed though.
I'll loosen the nut and hand torque back to 150 ft-lbs and report back.
If it works, great, if not I'll pull the shim and take a pic...
They are fun, and I figured, WTF, 150 ft-lbs, what if I go a little over...
The shim did look a little deformed though.
I'll loosen the nut and hand torque back to 150 ft-lbs and report back.
If it works, great, if not I'll pull the shim and take a pic...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I backed the pinion nut off, re-torqued to ~150 ft-lbs (had not staked nut yet)
Lifted rear wheels off ground, and tried to measure pre-load.
I don't have an inch-lb torque wrench, all I have is a Craftsman dial-type 150 ft-lb wrench. The only reading I could get is btwn 0-5 ft-lbs. Not sure I trust the accuracy of the tool down that low.
So I'll borrow an inch-lb wrench and try again.
Next question, if I do have to go in there and replace shims, can I accurately measure pre-load w/o the seal? I figure the seal will add some drag, but if I am swapping shims in and out I can't have the seal installed...
Lifted rear wheels off ground, and tried to measure pre-load.
I don't have an inch-lb torque wrench, all I have is a Craftsman dial-type 150 ft-lb wrench. The only reading I could get is btwn 0-5 ft-lbs. Not sure I trust the accuracy of the tool down that low.
So I'll borrow an inch-lb wrench and try again.
Next question, if I do have to go in there and replace shims, can I accurately measure pre-load w/o the seal? I figure the seal will add some drag, but if I am swapping shims in and out I can't have the seal installed...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Still wondering if seal will affect my in-lb torque reading?
Also, I called my local Toyota parts guy (no use having CDan ship from ABQ) about shims, and he said he a set of 4 that were all the same thickness for use by the front bearing in the rear pinion, OR the shims that come in different thickness are used by the rear bearing! That was news to me, until I pulled this pic:
Sure enough, it shows a shim back there...
Can I take care of this just with the front shim or do I have to tear in and monkey with the back shim?
Also, I called my local Toyota parts guy (no use having CDan ship from ABQ) about shims, and he said he a set of 4 that were all the same thickness for use by the front bearing in the rear pinion, OR the shims that come in different thickness are used by the rear bearing! That was news to me, until I pulled this pic:
Sure enough, it shows a shim back there...
Can I take care of this just with the front shim or do I have to tear in and monkey with the back shim?
You are probably good to go. The preload specs are with the seal out and no axles, so it is hard to accurately measure the actual preload with that sucker installed. That is why I said it is best to measure it before you take the flange off and compare the overall torque after you reinstall it. The upper limit on preload is almost 2 ft lbs (25 inch pounds) w/o the seals and axles anyway, so it sounds like you are in the ball park. If it isn't any harder to turn that your front pinion, I would say to just run it for about 10 miles and then get out and feel the pinion housing. If it is too hot to the touch (>150 degrees), something is wrong.
Trivia:
There are 3 kinds of shims on the cruiser pinions.
1) There are the large pinion depth shims that go under the outer race of the big inner pinion bearing which determine the tooth contact pattern.
2) There are outer pinion bearing shims. You can use 0-3 of these shims depending on the thickness of the pinion depth shim.
3) There is also a "preload washer". There are 10-12 different sizes that are al at least 1 mm thick that vary by about .001. This is what actually sets the preload.
Trivia:
There are 3 kinds of shims on the cruiser pinions.
1) There are the large pinion depth shims that go under the outer race of the big inner pinion bearing which determine the tooth contact pattern.
2) There are outer pinion bearing shims. You can use 0-3 of these shims depending on the thickness of the pinion depth shim.
3) There is also a "preload washer". There are 10-12 different sizes that are al at least 1 mm thick that vary by about .001. This is what actually sets the preload.
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