Pinion seal failed , unsure of axle identity (1 Viewer)

[Themcfarland]

I recently purchased an aussie based fj45 .
It already had power steering and 4 wheel disk brakes and a 1hz in it
I am stumbling to find which axles are under it . I feel instead of the previous owner putting all of this stuff over time I wonder if he didn't just slap a 45 cab into an 80 series or even 60 series drive line
It has the f55 with granny low and 5th over drive the split tcase and full float axles but remnants of the unused parts of the wire harness and such make me think it was a gasser like a fj45 would be and the tag says f45 in the vin

I have googled till I am blind and greasy as all trying to be under the truck and comparing pics I find on here
Are there any clues to what the year changes are in the axles or something to gst me to the parts I need to look up ?

I hope to have a buddy help me pull this seal , but wonder what caused the seal to fail.. wondering if I need to order the bearings too while we're in there
I have a 16th of movement in all directions but in or out. It does make a but of noise when underway but think that's due to low diff fluid right now its slung all over the underside of the wheels ..thanks in advance .. Dave

 

[Unimogguy]

So you think it’s potentially a 60 or 80 series frame and running gear with a 45 cab dropped on it?

Leaf springs or coils?

What does the VIN number stamped on the frame say? It’s on the front right rail in front of the passenger front tire.

What year is on the title?

Pics of the truck and axles would help identify the axles. That and we all like pics…

 

[Themcfarland]

The title is showing 82
Ill have pics of my pinion leak but I want to get better detailed pics of the extra brackets too .
The bracket for pinion brake is still there but no disk , the rears have the drum park brake brackets .
The axles are full.floated too and the bed was not original it was an UTE setup .
Ill take better pics to show body mounts and look for frame tag tonight
its a fun puzzle , and the brief 3 week honeymoon is over she is costing me money

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Looks like an axle seal leak to me not a pinion leak, most likely a clogged breather and leaking when it gets warm. Its a standard 9.5 cruiser diff, most likely not a solid pinion spacer so take that into acct when you swap the seal. Do your own research on this. Outer seal on a full float is often removed, at least that's what I do. Oil the bearings not grease. Im talking about the little seal that goes inside the spindle. Ymmv, Pull the stub shafts and replace the paper gasket and back seal on wheel bearings, insure wheel bearings are good properly tightened, lift up, see if there's up and down or side to side play. Adjust wheel bearings and adjust accordingly. Make sure mating surface for paper gasket is flat and clean, insure studs are tight and not pulled, make sure cone washers are installed. When you say "pinion brake" are you talking about bracket on back of transfer case? You might need to find a local cruiser specific shop to help you out. Your brake pads are saturated and need to be replaced also. Or clean your breather, give it a good decrease, fill diff, drive and see if the leak continues, replace rear pads after leak is fixed. Beware your brake ability is bad with saturated rear pads. Rear full float seal bearing kit should be very standard on 40/80 series. Call a cruiser vendor that knows what you have and can assist with correct parts. Might be a bent rear axle housing also. You will know when you put the rear shafts back in the diff.

 

[Themcfarland]

Looks like an axle seal leak to me not a pinion leak, most likely a clogged breather and leaking when it gets warm. Its a standard 9.5 cruiser diff, most likely not a solid pinion spacer so take that into acct when you swap the seal. Do your own research on this. Outer seal on a full float is often removed, at least that's what I do. Oil the bearings not grease. Im talking about the little seal that goes inside the spindle. Ymmv, Pull the stub shafts and replace the paper gasket and back seal on wheel bearings, insure wheel bearings are good properly tightened, lift up, see if there's up and down or side to side play. Adjust wheel bearings and adjust accordingly. Make sure mating surface for paper gasket is flat and clean, insure studs are tight and not pulled, make sure cone washers are installed. When you say "pinion brake" are you talking about bracket on back of transfer case? You might need to find a local cruiser specific shop to help you out. Your brake pads are saturated and need to be replaced also. Or clean your breather, give it a good decrease, fill diff, drive and see if the leak continues, replace rear pads after leak is fixed. Beware your brake ability is bad with saturated rear pads. Rear full float seal bearing kit should be very standard on 40/80 series. Call a cruiser vendor that knows what you have and can assist with correct parts. Might be a bent rear axle housing also. You will know when you put the rear shafts back in the diff.

Amazing info thank you for this
I have info from previous owner that the wheel ends and axle bearings are all replaced less than 2100.miles ago . Pictures were sent , but I will follow the instructions to check the back of wheel bearings and paper seals
Guess what he did at that time ? He routed the vents to a higher point within the engine bay and I suspect its kinked where its tied off with zip tie.
Thanks for the Safety warning on the brakes . I will clean them up .. Just incase I need it

Regarding the park brake / pinion brake .
It looks like there is a bracket that was positioned to hold the caliper or cable management to the caliper , that is positioned towards the back of the drive shaft over the pinion area . That is what made me think pinion brake like a 14bolt sometimes had . I have not seen or heard of anything like that on a fj on that end of the drive shaft but im new to laddcruiser and stumbling my way through it
I truly appreciate you folks taking the time to.nudge me along . I know it's likely the same questions over and over from guys and it gets old . So I appreciate the effort..
I live in Louisiana im not gonna worry about the parking brake/ebrake . The parts are hard as snot to find .
I have everything but the drum and lever portion for the rear axle brake setup but lost motivation.
I have the pull lever cable and everything mounted for the rear disk/drum setup if I get motivated . This oil seal changed my direction .

 

[Themcfarland]

Wanted to follow up on this,
First, thanks everyone for taking the time..
I lucked out and although the nut had been staked, it backed off. We were able to tighten it up, put truck on stands and tighten it down removing any slop and slack that I was worried about.. we used a long T wrench and gave it hell letting the big 35's give some resistance . WE doubted it had been done correctly last time.
As a side note, also discovered the U joint on back shaft was dead.. we used a whole bottle of map gas and an air hammer to try to get the joint out of the flange. ended up cutting it with sawzall and tried again to get cups out.. NOPE.. So, I am going to buy a replacement flange and trying to get TOY factory joints instead of the ones that autozone carry. I had grabbed 2 duralasts that fit but I will use them as spares if needed.. rather for this, OEM or closer to it.

 

[71-CRUISER]

Good thing the LC pinion seals are basically all the same from ~1958-1998

Someone here will know the pn by heart. @OGBeno

 

[Themcfarland]

I had it in hand and replaced it. I aint playing. I bought parts for all the things like that as soon as I decided to buy.. I have belts and bearings sealed in bags.. What I dont have is that stinking pinion yoke .. lol TPI is not in today and I left a vm. I cant find the dems to verify anyone has another that is the same..

 

[65swb45]

If it hasn’t been modified, the yokes are the same from 74-84. You can use the bolt pattern chart Kurt posted on his website to see if yours is still the original size.

 

[Themcfarland]

Thanks , I went looking on the store front and couldn't find his original copy . I went digging and found this picture and then this one too. No years on the listing so many others use web based pics over and over without paying attention to details . I feel its the same one in the pic but if its the right one really. I wont know for a few days
I had to get a duralast bearing to.try to get lt back on the road and out of the girlfriends garage . I ended up not being able to get the caps out of the yoke, so now I have time to get Japan versions and ill throw the duralast in the spares box ..ill eventually get a spare set of drive shafts
I believe its original just cut up to fit the HZ and split case with the hf55 transmission. The year span for the truck worked to find a duralast bearing to fit the other half of rhe yoke

 

[onemanarmy]

how wide are the axles wms to wms?
60 series (and 80 series) axles are wider than 40/45/55

and did you determine it was indeed the axle seal leaking and not the pinion?

 

[Themcfarland]

It was the pinion seal the nut had backed off and was finger tight . The axle guts were fine and not leaking and intact . They were less than 2500 miles new but as anything goes if I didn't do it, I had to check as someone suggested . I did go ahead and verify the paper gasket too .
I have not found the frame tag or measured the wms to wms yet
I had a buddy over to work on getting that bearing out while I also took out the air cleaner and was tapping the manifold and installing a pyro.
I was pressed to get things done that he was better at before he left
We managed to fix the pinion seal , staked the nut after all the lifting the tires and getting it set.
We
got the pyro in , tried to also install a replacement AC compressor only to find the short one I ordered fit the bolt pattern but the clutch sticks out too far compared to where the existing one did
I am not sure how many oddball things are on this truck but its an adventure RHD
82 fj45 , 1 hz , 5 sp , split t case 4 wheel disk , was an UTE in Australia then to CO Florida and now me in Louisiana.
Ct26 was added to the HZ , but after what looks like 20 years of living, it needs some attention.
Exhaust manifold nuts are not really recognizable as a nut vs rounded off rust . The flange on the short end of manifold is leaking im sure if I try to remove them I will break them in the head . So I am waiting till I can afford a new head , and manifold
And while im there, and thing are out of the way, ill likely grab the IP and rebuild or replace with factory refurbished.