Pinion angle correction (1 Viewer)

[misanthrope]

Hello all,

so after lifting my truck 3 inches I finally have the dreaded soul crushing noise coming from the driveshafts... and now a blown rear pinion seal.
I've used the search bar and read for many, many hours but decided to make a post in hopes of clearing up some of my confusion.

Now i'm curious, looking into extended lower control arms, adjustable uppers and frankensteining other Toyota DC shafts.

Which is the "best" solution? correct me for my stupidity.. if its not one or the other but from my knowledge the DC shafts are able to work because the diff is pointed down more than it was before lift... and DC joint is able to correct for that.

A set of adjustable upper control arms (at least for the rear) tilts the diff in a position where double cardan would not be necessary?

Either way the only solution (from my reading) for the front would be to buy a new shaft, wether that be a driveshaft shop shortening a rear tacoma driveshaft, or buying one from slee or Tom Woods.

Any replies would be greatly appreciated.

-Sean-

 

[gummycarbs]

DC for the front *only if* you rotate the axle enough that the pinion is pointing directly toward the transfer case output.

You don't need a DC rear with a 3" lift. Use adjustable arms or do it yourself with a welder.

Tom Woods is the fastest and easiest way to get a DC front drive shaft, but it won't use Toyota parts.

 

[baldilocks]

First off, figure out where the vibes are coming from. Probably front as gummy said. Tom Woods is a company that many have turned to and they do make decent drivelines but I prefer to keep driveline work local.

Ask for a 1310 size DC joint using Spicer Life Series joints in the DC (CV) joint. You could go with 1310 at the differential end but I stick with Matsuba original size joints there.

Also request that the DC mounting flange be machined to .290” no more than .300” thick, otherwise your nuts won’t engage all stud threads at the transfer case.

 

[landtank]

Do yourself a favor and talk with the vendors on here with the idea of them providing a complete solution that they will be responsible for.

To often people ask for help, get a lot of suggestions and advice and after installing parts have all sorts of problems with handling and vibrations.

 

[baldilocks]

The OP brings a simple and common issue after installing a 3” lift which is probably more like 4”.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Part time kit

 

[misanthrope]

Do yourself a favor and talk with the vendors on here with the idea of them providing a complete solution that they will be responsible for.

To often people ask for help, get a lot of suggestions and advice and after installing parts have all sorts of problems with handling and vibrations.

That was actually my first thought, but i've messaged a few and yet to get a response. If you could recommend a vendor that'd be awesome.

 

[misanthrope]

First off, figure out where the vibes are coming from. Probably front as gummy said. Tom Woods is a company that many have turned to and they do make decent drivelines but I prefer to keep driveline work local.

Ask for a 1310 size DC joint using Spicer Life Series joints in the DC (CV) joint. You could go with 1310 at the differential end but I stick with Matsuba original size joints there.

Also request that the DC mounting flange be machined to .290” no more than .300” thick, otherwise your nuts won’t engage all stud threads at the transfer case.

I may have left out some critical information. I installed an OME heavy lift, without rear armor/bumper. I'm debating getting mediums in the rear or just going with the 4x4 bumper and swing out like I had planned. That being said there is a considerable amount of stinkbug, (I have a front bumper and wench as well) which is making the car significantly higher in the rear. I have removed my front drive shaft and the vibrations/noise is coming from both the rear and the front DS's. I'm assuming to fix this I will need a double cardan shaft up front (I used wit's end 2.5'' weld in caster plates to correct for caster) and adjustable upper rear control arms? I'm willing to do the welding myself for the control arms, I've just yet to come across a weld in kit for sale.

 

[misanthrope]

For reference of parts i've used- OME 2850J / 2863J Springs, Front and rear sway bar drop brackets from delta and ironman, rear panhard lift bracket from delta, Dobinsons front panhard bar. I removed my front shaft to determine the noise/vibrations and it's coming from the rear as well as the front.

 

[REKCUT]

Each truck seems to represent a slightly different problem and solution. For me I installed the blackhawk extended lower arms to move the axle back to it original position and then ironman adjustable uppers. At the time the blackhawk uppers were on long time back order. This allows me to get my rear pinion angle correct and no noise or vibration.

 

[gummycarbs]

Get a digital angle finder and figure out what's wrong instead of guessing.

 

[landtank]

That was actually my first thought, but i've messaged a few and yet to get a response. If you could recommend a vendor that'd be awesome.

myself, Slee Offroad, Delta VS, Cruiser Outfitters, hopefully the place that sold you the springs and there are more. On top of that there are plenty of people on here that make suspension stuff and all of it can be found in the suspension sticky at the top.

While springs supply lift it's not a pre-determined outcome. The weight of the truck and accessories influences the outcome as far as the change in height. If you were to ask me, I'd first want to know the resulting ride height of the vehicle before giving any advice and I'm sure the shops that I mentioned would also want that or possibly an alignment done prior to giving advice.

This stuff can get deep quickly especially if you want to retain AWD and are lifting more than 2.5".

 

[Rwhat]

For reference of parts i've used- OME 2850J / 2863J Springs, Front and rear sway bar drop brackets from delta and ironman, rear panhard lift bracket from delta, Dobinsons front panhard bar. I removed my front shaft to determine the noise/vibrations and it's coming from the rear as well as the front.

Some Need DC shaft with J springs some don’t. The problem is you need to add rear weight with those springs or change them. That’s my opinion. J’s with your setup is more then 3” lift.

you don’t need a weld in kit for the rear lowers. You can sleeve them and extend them with DOM tubing depending on the size of your lower control arms.

 

[baldilocks]

The standard 863’s will help to level your rig out but without a heavier rear bumper and some gear in the cargo area she will still sit higher in the rear.

 

[misanthrope]

Get a digital angle finder and figure out what's wrong instead of guessing.

My alignment guy suggested this, figured there was only a few solutions to my problem however so I asked here.