Pictures of the 'new' BJ70 Diesel Rag-Top!

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cont'd

Ya I did get the factory 16's, with virgin tires as well (love scrubbing the "nubbies" off new tires). The underside is almost too good to be true, it looks like it's never been driven. The frame, suspension, and even the exhaust is clean and rust-free. I crawled under there yesterday and was amazed. There was some oil and fuel underneath the respective filters, signs of a recent change, but other than that I could eat off the underside.
The body has about 4 spots of surface corrosion, in the corners of the doors under the window rubber, but nothing deep.

The interior was dirty, with a small tear on the driver's side vinyl, but again, nothing but good news.

I want to have a 'Cruiser expert look at the rattle I get when I let off the gas, but I'll take on the fluids and filters myself. I'm also going to swap out the belts and coolant hoses as well just to be sure.



Moose
 
nice pics! good looking truck. were in BC are you? I saw lots of moisture.
 
I'm on Vancouver Island...and "moisture" is a BIG understatement...rain rain rain the past couple of days. Looking good for Tuesday, and never goes below 5-6C, so can't complain. Spent 5 years in Edmonton, driving on square tires etc...

Moose
 
Cool truck Moose
Here are 2 from my neighborhood. Unfortunately not owned by me :mad: If I could just convince the Fire Dept. to sell! They never drive the thing :cheers:
 
Nice looking rig Moose. I'm a little jealous.

If you are going to change the belts, go to Napa;
The belts you want are B-width, as in they are 5/8" not 1/2". The guys behind the counter might look at you funny when you say 'B-Width Belt', but here are the part numbers;

NAPA:
Alternator belt (part no. 15A1205) $18.08
Power steering (part no. 15A1540) is $23.98

They are WAY WAY cheaper than Toyota belts. In fact, buy two of each, because if one ever breaks on a road trip, guarantee you'll never find a replacement at some corner gas station.

Also, when you are loosening the idler pulley tensioner to remove the PS belt, be sure to crack the nut on that pulley first, or you will shear the head off the tensioner like I did.

Craig.
 
Nice rare cruiser Moose ,when you get time can you do some close ups of the doors with the top off:cheers:

Thats also the 1st 7# series Ive seen with no vents on the rear 1/4 panels:eek:

BJ70-2.jpg
 
Lumpy70, thanks for the tips. Any advice you have for 5-spd tranny, diff's and transfer case fluid change, coolant change and valve adjustment would be appreciated as well. Working from factory manual.

Also, I'm trying to track down a low-frequency but pronounced vibration that I feel in the floor/tranny tunnel when I let off the gas and the drivetrain brakes the engine (decending a hill or approaching a stoplight). It feels like a loose mount somewhere, but it might just be normal. Do you have anything like that?

Rosco, if I get any sun this week, I'll pull the top and snap some photos. I want to have the soft-top cleaned anyhow.
 
Get that thing rust-proofed right away. Make sure you do a good job of getting the inside of the frame rails and cross members covered. There's also a few cavities on the body that are especially prone to rust. Might as well protect it now while it's cancer free. Again, congratulations!
 
Stone said:
Get that thing rust-proofed right away. Make sure you do a good job of getting the inside of the frame rails and cross members covered. There's also a few cavities on the body that are especially prone to rust. Might as well protect it now while it's cancer free. Again, congratulations!


Stone, what do you recommend in terms of product for rust-proofing? Can it be done at home?
 
The best rust proofing is to keep it in a dry garage in the winters. Buy a rusted out FWD shoe box and put some skinny but gnarly snow tires up front :)

Dave
 
beanz2 said:
The best rust proofing is to keep it in a dry garage in the winters. Buy a rusted out FWD shoe box and put some skinny but gnarly snow tires up front :)

Dave


We don't really get winters here, lots of rain, but no snow or salt. Nevertheless, I want to protect the door panels and the sills. How's that "Rust Check" product you get at Cambodian Tire? It's a penetrating oil if I remember correctly.
 
phone around to the local dealerships and see where they take their new trucks to for rust proofing. probably be better over on the mainland where they actually do get rust and bad. then there will the answer will be found, Grasshopper...
 
It can be done, but you need a few specialized equipment. You need an air compressor, a paint gun, and some special wands that can go into the nooks and crevices of your vehicle. Greg B. has shown me how to do it, and I recently did my BJ74. Greg uses a product called BeoShield...good stuff but expensive, made by Boeing. I went to Lordco and bough a 5 gallon pail of Pro Form wax-based rust proofer (creeping oil). After I did my frame rails, I realized that 1 gallon would have been a much better size. :D
 
Man, I'm so jealous of you Canadians! National health care and diesel Cruisers. I'd think about emigrating if it wasn't so darn cold up there.
 
Cold? No snow on the ground...little bits of snow falling, not sticking though. Most of the time it just rains here in the winter and that's why some people don't like being on the "wet" coast. Similar in climate to Seattle or maybe even San Francisco.
 

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