Picking up an 07 UZJ on Monday

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Or the gas mileage department, apparently. :)

Yeah, that either. :D

Dropped in the 55W HIDs today and adjusted the beams down. I overdid it a touch on the height (a little too low), but the brightness is nice. The beam pattern on the lights is WAY better than the 00 to begin with. The HID's make the pavement look like daylight. I'll bump them up a few degrees tomorrow and see if I can get some pics on a dark street.
 
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I don't know if the earlier versions of the Nav system have this, but it's a really handy tool if you want to see what you can do with a feather foot to get the best fuel economy.

It's a real-time display (sliding bar) showing your current instantaneous MPG, plus the average for the tank and range. Also displayed is the average speed for this trip (since ignition) and distance covered for this trip.

Now that I've had my fun with the new-found power (275HP) and have been getting 14 around town and 16+ on the highway, I decided to see what this thing could do to SIP fuel. I have verified that this thing is accurate to within 1/10th of a MPG so far with hand-calcs.

I filled up 4-miles from home on my 25-mile commute into work this morning and babied it all the way to the office. Most of this was 45-55 MPH areas with some being 35MPH. I kept it at the speed limit and no more than 3-4 MPH above the limit. I did not drive under the limit unless traffic was moving slowly. I tried to keep the acceleration RPMs under 3K and preferrably under 2500 if appropriate. I let off and coasted to traffic lights and generally just drove to keep up with traffic without being stupid with the skinny pedal.

Anyway, here's the results.

Fuel Econ: 18.6 MPG
Avg Speed: 37 MPH (includes stop time at signals)
Distance: 21-miles

Not bad at all! :D I'm quite shocked to be honest!

Fuel-Econ.jpg



WOW....mine is an '06, and even driving it lightly, the BEST mileage i've ever gotten off that screen is 12.5...

Any ideas on maintenance that might need to be done? I feel like i'm losing (loosing) out on some mileage now...
 
Wow. That is also on 93 octane.

I would clean the MAF and TB if you haven't don those in a while. Check the air filter and make sure it's clean.

Have you ever dropped any seafoam in the tank to clean the injectors?
 
Some more MPG observations.

W/ 2 adults and 2 kids driving 68 MPH (cruise) I averaged 17.1 MPG over ~225 miles. This was on a 4-lane divided non-interstate highway in rural Mississippi. Change in elevation went from ~ sea level to about 850' and a lot of the drive consisted of hills up to 150' ele change at a time for most of the trip. There was a little mix of speed along the way w/ traffic signals and speed limit changes. In other words, not ideal although at lower speeds than an interstate.

Same trip, on the way back but averaging 73 MPH (ready to get home!) I got 16.2 MPG.

When I'm alone and truck unloaded, I can set the cruise at 61 MPH on flat roads at sea level and the RPMs are dead on 2000 and can get 20 MPG. Drop that to 53 and it jumps up to 25 MPG. It's painful to drive that slow though. :D

Amsoil goodies arrived today too! Plan to do a full ATF replacement along with front/rear diffs, transfer case, and oil. Also got grease and a 2X capacity WIX filter. I'll give it a couple tanks to get settled in and then check the mileage again to see if there's any noticable improvement at all after the full-synthetic change over. At least I will have zero lubrication worries for a while!

Sure doesn't LOOK like ~$500 worth...

Amsoil-1.jpg
 
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Wow. That is also on 93 octane.

I would clean the MAF and TB if you haven't don those in a while. Check the air filter and make sure it's clean.

Have you ever dropped any seafoam in the tank to clean the injectors?



Never done seafoam, no. The air filter is a new K&N.

I am going to be cleaning the MAF and TB now though...

Ever since this thread started I've been monitoring the screen and driving 'light' but still averaing 12mpg city. My last road trip (just my wife and I), driiving 75mph, i averaged 15mpg...
 
Never done seafoam, no. The air filter is a new K&N.

I am going to be cleaning the MAF and TB now though...

Yeah, I had one of those for a while too in my '00 UZJ. The oil kept gumming up the MAF and I had to clean it every 3K-4K miles or my MPGs would drop way off (2-3 MPG). Ended up taking it back to Advance and got an OEM paper filter and never looked back.

Ever since this thread started I've been monitoring the screen and driving 'light' but still averaing 12mpg city. My last road trip (just my wife and I), driiving 75mph, i averaged 15mpg...

12MPG city is a little low unless you've got a heavy foot. Same for 15MPG @ 75 - but it's not "horrible" for that speed. You might have the K&N oil on the MAF. Clean it w/ some MAF cleaner (from an auto parts store) or electrical contact cleaner and then put a paper filter in it. Maybe add two cans of either Seafoam ($10/can) or B-12 Chemtrol (same stuff but $4/can) to a 1/4-tank of gas and drive hard until the gas light comes on. That will clean out the injectors if they have any varnish buildup on the nozzles. Fill up and run that tank out under "normal" conditions.

After that, re-check your mileage. Wouldn't hurt to check the air in the tires too to make sure you're not a little low, creating more rolling resistance (and heat).

Also, on the highway, that rack on top will suck ~1MPG out of you. That happened to me on an old 4Runner. Take it off on long trips when it's not needed and you'll see a difference - if it really matters to you.
 
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Swapped out all the fluids today with some "liquid gold" :D

Liquid-Gold-Amsoil.jpg


Used a WIX oversized filter (for a 1995 Ford Taurus 3.0L V6) with the 5W30:

Filter-Comparison.jpg


And did the "shadetree bucket flush" to get a full swap of all the ATF:

ATF-replacement.jpg


So, for less than $250 shipped, I'm now good for 30K on the oil and 100K on everything else (except for the driveshaft grease). :D
 
Ok, so I had a few questions on my "shadetree transmission flush" and I thought I would share the basic procedure.

First of all, the UZJ-100's had different transmissions through the years and it is ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE that you look up your correct transmission fluid and ONLY use that specific type. Some use Dexron II/III, some use Toyota T-IV, and some use Toyota WS. THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE!

You will need:

  • 12-qts (minimum) of appropriate ATF
  • Hand Pump for fluid transfer (Amsoil sells one)
  • ATF/Oil Catch Pan
  • 5+ gallon bucket
  • Vice Grips
  • 14mm Wrench or Socket/Ratchet (trans pan drain bolt)
  • 12mm Socket/Ratchet (skid plate bolts)
  • 5mm Hex Wrench or Ratchet Bit (Check/Overflow Screw)
  • 24mm Socket with long handle (Fill Port Plug)
  • Oil Change Ramps for easier access to Transmission Pan and Fill Port
  • Misc Rags for Cleanup
  • Funnel

On the A750F 5-Speed Transmission, there is no dipstick, but there is a fill port and overflow "Check" port on the transmission body. If you have an A343* transmission, then you can skip any steps referring to the fill or check ports and just fill and check your level via the dipstick tube. It's still easier/cleaner to use the hand pump for fill rather than trying to pour the ATF into the tiny opening of the tube.

Remove front skid plates with 12mm Socket and Ratchet.

A750F:

A750F-TransmissionDiagram.jpg


I drove my truck up onto the ramps, put in park and set the parking brake, and placed the oil/ATF catch pan under the transmisison drain plug. If you have an A750* transmission, look on the driver side of the transmission housing, just rearward of the transmission pan drain plug up by the shift linkage to locate the 24mm Fill Port Plug. You will want to use the socket to remove this fill port plug FIRST. It has a "WS" embossed on the head. You can't miss it! Next you use the 5mm Hex Wrench to remove the overflow "CHECK" screw in the bottom of the transmission pan. LAST one to remove is the DRAIN PLUG from the pan.

Once you drain the ATF from the pan, then replace the Drain Plug and torque to 20 ft-lbs. Use the hand pump to transfer about 2.5-3 qts of ATF into the fill port (or down the dipstick tube for A343* users) until you get a tiny trickle of new fluid coming out of the "CHECK" port (A750F only).

Go to the front of the truck and use the vice grips to move the hose clamp from the DRIVER SIDE ATF HOSE going to the radiator. Pull the hose from the barb, place into the 5-gallon bucket. Adjust the screw on the vice grips and clamp them on the hose so that flow will be restricted somewhat and the vice grips will hang on the hose to weigh it down.

Now, go crank the truck. You will hear the ATF fluid squirting from the hose into the bucket. Now is the time to adjust the screw on the vice grips so that the flow is a small steady stream. You should drain 2-qts in about 15-20 seconds. Shut engine off at that time. If you hear the fluid "gurgling" or "sputtering", then it's time to shut the engine off!

ATF-replacement.jpg


Now, you have to go put more fluid in the pan. Transfer another 2-3 quarts (as much as you have removed via the hose/bucket) to the pan.

Start the truck and with your foot on the brake, move the gear selector through the entire shift tree at about 1/2-second intervals.

P-R-N-D-4-3-2-L-2-3-4-D-N-R-P

This will flush the old fluid from the valve body and replace it with new fluid. Be quick about is as you don't want the sump to run dry! Shut truck off.

Fill transmission pan again with 2-3 quarts and start engine again.

Repeat the above until you go through at LEAST 10-qts of fluid AND you get bright-red ATF coming out of the hose at the front by the radiator.

Once you've done that... Remove the vice grips from the hose, and put the hose back on the barb of the radiator. Now put the clamp back in place. Check the fluid level by topping off via the Fill Port until it flows from the "CHECK" overflow port. At that point, you will want to screw the check screw into it's hole and replace the fill port at the top of the transmission housing - finger tight is OK on both for now.

Start the engine, back the truck down off the ramps and let it idle for at least 5-min. With your foot on the brake, cycle the gear selector through the entire shift tree several times, with at least a 1-2 second interval for each gear. Shut off engine.

Check transmission pan temperature with IR gun or other means. It should be between 115°F and 130°F. If not in the specified range, then either allow to cool or go for a short drive to get in the desired range. Although this is not SUPREMELY important, you should heed the advise so that optimum fluid level is achieved in your garage using the DIY procedure.

Now that you have the transmission cooler and valve body full of fresh fluid and the truck is on LEVEL ground (truck RUNNING, wheels chocked, in Park with parking break on) you will need to get back under it and remove the CHECK overflow screw. If fluid drains from the overflow port, catch fluid and allow to drain until it stops. Replace screw and torque to 15 ft-lbs. Torque Fill port to 15 ft-lbs also.

If no fluid drains from the CHECK overflow port, then remove the Fill Port Plug and add fluid to the pan until it drains from the overflow port. Once fluid is "topped off", then install screw and plug and torque as described above.

Wipe down transmission pan of any residual ATF so you can see any leaks should they occur.

Now, take the truck for a short test drive, shifting through the gears, and return to garage. Check underneath for any leaks at drain, fill, and overflow plugs. Check for leaks at hose barb at radiator. If no leaks, replace skid plates and YOU'RE DONE!

THIS BULLETIN from Toyota shows the procedure for dealerships to basically accomplish the above and charge you $$$!
 
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Just playing around w/ some YELLOW 60W HighBeam/DRL bulbs next to the 4500K 55W HID's.

The mix of light on the ground/road is really ... well... interesting. I kinda like them. Certainly different.

2007-UZJ-Lights-1.JPG


2007-UZJ-Lights-2.JPG
 
Just playing around w/ some YELLOW 60W HighBeam/DRL bulbs next to the 4500K 55W HID's.

The mix of light on the ground/road is really ... well... interesting. I kinda like them. Certainly different.

2007-UZJ-Lights-1.JPG


2007-UZJ-Lights-2.JPG

It definitely reminds me of the standard Lexus foglights that are bright yellow against the xenons like on the IS/LS. I've always thought that combo looked cool!
 
LOL... Nice to know I'm not nuckin futz thinking that I'm going to leave it like that. :D
 
I like it. Looks either nostalgic or euro depending upon your slant.

On the downside, is there a chance that perhaps it might attract more attention from five-oh?
 
you shouldnt have your friggin hi-beams on when you're passing five-oh anyways. Especially if you dont want TheFuzz to light you up with "his" lights.
 
you shouldnt have your friggin hi-beams on when you're passing five-oh anyways. Especially if you dont want TheFuzz to light you up with "his" lights.

Ed Zachary. :D

That pic is high beams. On low, the yellow lights are off and only the HID's are on. When the lights are off and DRLs are on, the yellow lights are at a reduced voltage (about half-intensity) and the HID's are completely off.
 
you shouldnt have your friggin hi-beams on when you're passing five-oh anyways. Especially if you dont want TheFuzz to light you up with "his" lights.

I thought they were DRL's too?
 
I thought they were DRL's too?

LOL... They are. However, in DRL mode, they operate at a much lower light output due to the lower voltage being sent to them. Surprisingly, they aren't all that YELLER at the lower voltage - you can see the color, but it's not in-your-face obnoxious. When at 12V and 60W, the yellow kicks in and it's obvious.
 

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