Picking up a 77 - need trip advice (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 3, 2003
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Location
Minneapolis, MN, US
Hey guys - I'm back on Mud after what seems like 10 years after selling my 40. I'm picking up a 1991 HZJ77 in LA next Friday. The plan is to fly in with the wife and 3 kids and drive back to MN over 5 days. Plans aren't nailed down yet, but we'll probably be stopping a few places in AZ (Havasu, Monument Valley), maybe go east through New Mexico and up to Denver. Truck will be equipped with a Front Runner rack and RTT. I'm having sleeping bags shipped to the seller (wife's birthday present) so we don't have to pack them on the plane.

Anyhow, I'm curious to know what parts and tools it would be good to have on hand in an emergency. We'll have all the standard camping equipment, so just specific to the vehicle, my list thus far includes:

• Tire repair kit
• Jack if the OEM is missing
• AAA membership
• 24V Charging cable for phones
• Extra washer fluid
• Metric wrenches
• What else you got? TIA...

Also, pics:

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Tire plug kit, bike pump.
3/8 socket set, wrenches
cig plug usb for charging (your phone believe it or not will probably charge on 24v and is rated to)

Don't need a whole lot. You can get fluids just about anywhere. I always kept a quart under the hood.

Have fun!
 
I would check with the owner regarding hoses, filters, belts. Are there any spares with the vehicle?
The suspension looks pretty hammered, I would be careful offroad. Shocks are probably worn out also.
In addition to some basic metric tools, take a good Philips head screwdriver.
A small hammer
A test lamp or multimeter.
Small roll of wire
Insulation tape.
Spare 24v fuses
A good battery torch.
Jumper cables.
Your cig charger and cable should be good for 12v to 24v
If a 1HZ starts easy, it will probably run for few years without stopping.
Ive never had to fix a 1HZ on the side of the road in 10 years.
 
Bulbs or LED replacements. I'd think about replacing headlamps before you leave unless they're newish.

Make sure the wiper blades are new. Small thing but it matters.

Soft towelettes to wipe the grin off your face.
 
Yeah that looks like the one on CCC (Yota Inports) website. I like the way it looks too with that tent set up.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Yep - I'm picking it up from Duke at Yota Imports. Good call on the headlights - I was considering that, but wasn't sure how easy it would be. Does the LC use a standard H4 connector?
 
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Make sure the timing belt has been done. When was the last time all the fluids/filters were changed? May want to have that done to the truck before making the trip back. Wiper blades replaced. Otherwise anything else you might need should be available along the route.
 
Does the LC use a standard H4 connector?

I doubt your headlights will fail. In any case you can still drive in the daytime and they rarely fail both at the same time.
Batteries are the weak link on 24v landcruisers. If one goes, the other is useless as well.
 
Well, I know he put two new yellow tops in, so the batteries should be fine. I'm more concerned with the visibility at night. I have pretty bad night vision, and I've really gotten used to the HID output of a newer vehicle. Also, we love to travel at night because the kids sleep and there's less traffic. I'll probably have a couple of Truck-Lite's shipped to him and put them in before I leave.
 
Question on testing the batteries - I'm not too familiar with 24V systems. Do I need to do anything different in order to test voltage for each battery? I'd like to take cold reading then start the truck and take another reading to make sure the alternator is putting out. Do I set the multimeter to 20V as with a normal 12V battery?

Also, I have a question on the auto-locking hubs. I used to have an Xterra with auto hubs, and once they were engaged, you had to back up about 3 feet to disengage them, otherwise you just continued to spin the front driveshafts even without 4wd. Does the 77 function similarly?
 
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If the auto hubs are working properly they should engage and disengage quickly and with minimal noise, and shouldn't require any movement of the vehicle. They can be disengaged on the fly, but I am not sure if that is good for them. I have had them take a little while to engage, and I found it helps to slowly move the vehicle back and forth a bit.

Overall I would say don't overthink trip preparations; if the vehicle has been reasonably well maintained and you know its limitations, I highly doubt you would have any troubles whatsoever. Jump in and enjoy the trip home!
 
Some extra fluids in a milk crate (coolant, engine and trans oil).

Might be worth it to schedule a Dyno considering you just bought her and see if the 1HZzzzz is putting out the full ~ 120 HP. Gives peace of mind and serves as a good baseline for future mods.

Have a great trip!
 
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Some extra fluids in a milk crate (coolant, engine and trans oil).

Might be worth it to schedule a Dyno considering you just bought her and see if the 1HZzzzz is putting out the full ~ 120 HP. Gives peace of mind and serves as a good baseline for future mods.

Have a great trip!
A healthy 1hz puts out around 65-70hp at the wheels. 120hp is @ flywheel and because there is so little power, the loose nearly half through the drivetrain.
 
A healthy 1hz puts out around 65-70hp at the wheels. 120hp is @ flywheel and because there is so little power, the loose nearly half through the drivetrain.

@ 170k kms
 

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Well, that's the Dyno on my new-to-me 1HZ from last week despite the petrol typo. I believe OEM Spec is 96Kw @ 3800? (@ flywheel)

She's in good enough shape to travel...
 
Well, that's the Dyno on my new-to-me 1HZ from last week despite the petrol typo. I believe OEM Spec is 96Kw @ 3800? (@ flywheel)

She's in good enough shape to travel...

The newer 1HZ's do make more power to the wheels from the research I've done. The 65-70 whp mentioned above is consistent with a healthy early 1990's 1HZ. The later 1HZ's make closer to what you saw on the dyno (90 whp). Is yours a 2002?

Edit: I just noticed your graph is in kW? 90kW at the wheels does seem rather high. Maybe they corrected for driveline losses to give you flywheel power on the graph?

Don't the later ones have an 11mm injection pump (as opposed to the early 10mm pump)? Probably some other improvements too.... Based on the dyno plots above, it seems Toyota changed the tune to move peak power higher up the rpm curve. This would result in a higher peak power spec. They could also have improved transmission and transfer case efficiency?

Edit: This quote came up in a search I just did:

"LandCruiser's 1HZ engine was upgraded in May 1998 to meet European emissions standards.

Improvements at that time included a new piston and combustion chamber design, large injector nozzle holes, new injection timing, a new glow-plug system, increased oil pan capacity and the adoption of an hydraulic cam chain tensioner.

The improvements increased maximum torque, increased engine service intervals, reduced exhaust emissions, reduced noise, improved piston wear resistance and improved reliability and durability.

Emissions of HC and NOx are 35 percent of those mandated by the Federal Government.

LandCruiser's diesel engine delivers 96kW of power at 4000rpm and 285Nm of torque at 2200rpm.
"

I know that the method of rating flywheel hp changed around this time too. So could be the early and late engines are rated using a different method. So on paper it would appear the make the same power, but in reality the later one makes an extra 15-20hp.
 
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As far as horsepower goes, it can be broken down as follows:

Early 1HZ ....... Not enough
Later 1HZ ....... Slightly more than not enough

* Most other Toyota diesels fall in the category of "slightly more or slightly less than not enough".
 
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