Phoenix gets a new set of underwear (driveline upgrades to my FJ40) (2 Viewers)

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If I damage them, they are available for ~$3 a piece but that is a relief. To clear up any misunderstandings, this vehicle is being built for the rest of my life as an ultimate daily-driver to replace the FJC. That is why I am going to all of this trouble. Also, Justin has offered me his old 2F engine to rebuild. I also found OEM rebuilds for $3500 (not likely) and warrantied used ones for $1600, but I do like to rebuild engines; I just need to find a good machine shop, probably in NO...any thoughts?
 
Thanks for the input on removing the knuckle dowels (official name)...I got them off with no problem. Here is a photo of the passenger side before removing the knuckle itself...comments?

Input requested here...is it okay to install the new knuckle assy before I reinstall the axle...I would like to get some parts off the bench and installed...LOL
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I am preparing to install the newer steering knuckles and I had a query if anyone has experience with these. Some of the studs came out with the nuts and several others were loose. I have replaced a couple that had damaged threads and I think it would be useful to install them with Loctite. Any comments on this?

I am putting them back to test the bearing pre-load with the same shims that came out of both the original and the replacement knuckles. I hope it works because I got sent a set of shims that are for a very different knuckle...the bolt pattern is much larger.
 
I have installed the new(er) knuckle on the passenger side following Paul Ks comment (red locktite on the knuckle pins) and I was attempting to remove the original axle from the new Birf, but it doesn't want to come off with the same method I used on the replacement Birf (from Justin B). My next step is to just hit the Birf with the 4 lb sledge directly with no conern about damage to the 10 spline outer axle. If that doesn't work I will but a 10 lb (I have one somewhere in the walls of my home...LOL) but I am not sure my 4 inch vise will hold...any comments?
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The original outer axle/CV was a lot harder to remove than the "newer" one from the 1976 axle but it succumbed to a 4 lb hammer directly on the inner race, after using an extension to tighten the 4 inch vise a little tighter than before. The new clip was obviously not as worn as the old one but no apparent damage was sustained, not that it matters...not much market for 10 spline outers that fit drum brakes...LOL
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...guess what is definitely going into the field repair kit!
 
The latest essential "magic" tool for the field repair kit arrived today and I used it on the tie rod ends. It is pricey ($70) but I have found that the better the method, the more it costs. After removing the tie rod, the rebuilt passenger-side knuckle feels just about right (~5 lbs pull to move the knuckle). It is complete.
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The driver-side was so worn that there was no preload on the knuckle bearings, but it was pretty easy to disassemble it without resorting to heavy blows. I will need to disassemble the "new" knuckle, which Justin was able to remove from the axle complete...
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I got the replacement knuckle cleaned up today and will install it tomorrow. There is some corrosion on the axle end but not in the bearing area. I should be removing the third member tomorrow and start installing the ARB...
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How difficult was the knuckle rebuild? Do you go OEM or use a kit?

I need to do a total rebuild of my front and do some PM on the rear.
 
There is no OEM for this job as far as I found out, but the distributors get the parts from any available source and send a box filled with parts. It is straightforward but there are a lot of parts...care and attention to detail are important. I am actually switching knuckles to 1976 disc brakes, so it is more complex than yours. I do recommend it on a high-mileage vehicle that will travel at higher speeds, however, because the bearings impact your handling.
 
I'm afraid of what the axle looks like 219,*** miles....lord only knows what kind of maintaining was done prior to the PO.

I have a receipt book 50 pages deep from the PO for work and parts over 6 months.
 
I finished the knuckle replacement today. The driver-side bearing seats weren't quite round (???) but the bearing races went in fine with some gentle (and I do mean gentle) tapping with a brass punch. It has the same preload as the passenger side so it is good...much better than the really loose bearing that came out.

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Tomorrow I pull the third member and figure out a way to mount it while I work on it, preferably without buying a $250 swiveling holder. If anyone "local" has one that I can borrow, or knows of an inexpensive replacement, let me know.
 
I couldn't remove the differential today...it is installed with make-a-gasket and it isn't budging. Tomorrow, I will try to: (1) use an air hammer and wedge a chisel between the axle housing and the carrier, and when that doesn't work; (2) try and remove the studs so I can get some wiggle out of it...damn silicon. Any other methods? I found nothing useful on the web.
 
Not sure how easy or hard those those housings are to crack.

No luck with a pry or big screwdriver and a hammer?
 
Well...methods (1) and (2) failed as I thought they would. I got the front differential loose by wrapping a chain around the driveshaft yoke and using a come-along anchored to the frame. It took more than 500 lbs to break it loose, actually compressed the front leaf spring, and required 5 minutes of load before the silicon let go...no bang, no lurching, just a sigh and the differential sat on the studs....the lesson is, NEVER USE SILICON MAKE-A-GASKET ON AN ASSEMBLY THAT IS ATTACHED WITH STUDS, unless you can get this kind of hold of it!
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I checked the backlash on the ring gear and it measured 0.012 inches, which is a lot less than the 0.059-0.079 inches I have seen in excerpts from the shop manual...this photo shows the setup to measure it, which I did ~5 times at different locations on the ring gear. The second photo shows what I found when I looked more closely when I prepared to check the wear pattern...corrosion! I will be replacing the R&P but the (positive) message is that we must go wheeling more often to avoid corrosion of steel parts in oil mixed with condensate in the differential!
.

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I took the plunge and ordered a set (front and back) of 4.56 R&Ps, which already arrived; however, Red Line sent 4.88 gears, which they are now replacing, but I also noted that this change to aftermarket (WTF) R&Ps requires a change to a 27 spline pinion, which means new pinion flanges. This could take a while from what I see on internet about R&P setup....more later.
 
Tim, just thought of something. Chris who was out at HP last weekend with the 60 may be interested in the Spartan locker(s) you are removing. He was asking questions about auto lockers since he is open, open. And I do believe the 40 and 60 thirds use the same lockers.
 
Bang Bang said:
Tim, just thought of something. Chris who was out at HP last weekend with the 60 may be interested in the Spartan locker(s) you are removing. He was asking questions about auto lockers since he is open, open. And I do believe the 40 and 60 thirds use the same lockers.
Click to expand...
He is welcome to them; what is his mud handle? What should I ask for them?
 
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