Phoenix gets a new set of underwear (driveline upgrades to my FJ40) (1 Viewer)

[4xphoenix]

This thread is going to document in gory detail the upgrades to the 1974 FJ40 I recently purchased from Mike J. The first problem to be addressed is the ridiculous 2:1 low range. Well...my newest bestest buddy, Georg of Valley Hybrids, has provided a solution for that with the, just arrived, Orion 4:1 T-case.

 

[HungryMedic]

Should be fun!

 

[Bang Bang]

Purdy......

 

[4xphoenix]

It turns out that the ARB locker for the front was never ordered from ARB by Iron Pig even after they took my money...that explains the huge delay in getting it. I should expect that within 10 days. We will see...

 

[HungryMedic]

Ouch!

 

[4xphoenix]

Most of the parts have arrived; I need to order a couple of specialty tools and a pinion bearing; I am sparing no (cheap) expense with respect to tools...

Just studying the very detailed instructions from ARB for now.

 

[HungryMedic]

Tools are something I've always spent the money on. Even more so my trail bag... Last thing I need to do is break the only wrench that fits.

 

[4xphoenix]

I have been waiting to get the PS installed at Northshore. It is done, and it drives great. Here are photos of the install. They used an 80s vintage minitruck PS box (new), with a GM pump; alas, this required removing the OEM air cleaner and other unwanted parts like the nonfunctioning air pump and associated hardware. I am temporarily keeping the air cleaner and air pump mount bracket. The rest, including a manual steering box, are awaiting hauling to the steel salvage yared...free if anyone wants them.

 

[4xphoenix]

Unfortunately, while discussing the job with the engine idling, we noticed a puddle of gas on the ground. The fuel pump started leaking like a sieve even with the engine off. I tested this when it was warmer and discovered a secondary fact; the fuel gauge is dead on. I almost ran out of gas driving to Covington and ran out in my driveway attempting to reproduce the leak. However, when this gauge says E, you will know it within 5 minutes...LOL.

These are photos of the tools and parts I had to use/remove to get the pump off because I am neither Mr. Fantastic or possessing incredibly strong fingers. There were convenient access holes to get to the necessary bolts for the rock plate but the battery had to be removed.

I also found an old disconnected electric fuel pump, which indicates the long-term usefulness of these that served as a convenient plug for the fuel line, because the tank is so high that fuel pours out unless the line is plugged...LOL

 

[4xphoenix]

I now have all of the transplant organs required for Phx's surgery except the disc brake hub kits for the new (not) knuckles I got from Justin. The final solution to the bad fuel pump was an electric and, to solve the foreseeable trail problems from the factory carb that leaked and ran way to rich, is a Weber with a late model breakerless distributor. Fortunately, Justin's salvage was a "Seller pulls it" operation...LOL.

I now have the disc-brake hubs but they need some work; I have ordered the rebuild kits, new calipers and pads. Here is a photo of all of the ancillary parts required to install the Weber too.

 

[4xphoenix]

I have installed the electric fuel pump and the compressor for the ARB while I was fitting the mount plate. I have violated several performance and safety standards for the moment, however. I mounted the fuel pump at battery level, which is slightly above the fuel tank, but it pumped up in less time than the (leaky) mechanical pump did (less than 30 s), from an empty tank. I didn't want to deal with mounting low and near the tank, especially with the likelihood of water and mud damage. I also did not install a proper oil-pressure cut-off for now; it is just running off the ignition, but it has an in-line 15 A fuse, which may be large or small, depending on who you talk to. The power wire from the pump is only 16 gauge so WTF. I did use 14 gauge to supply power. The mount is a leftover 3/16 plate that seems to be a good ground and plenty sturdy. Following the phone guidelines from TPI, I put a filter on each side of the pump.

 

[4xphoenix]

Today I sort of finished the fuel pump installation. The fuel pump block-off plate I have is only 1/8 inch thick and it apparently flexed too much for the paper gasket to seal properly, so I used make-a-gasket to seal it. I waited 24 hr as instructed and it appears to be leak proof. I will revisit this installation when I remove the fuel tank to install the new transfer case...

I am starting to look at the distributor now, which is a breakerless Toyota non-USA unit modified for the 1F engine. The instructions from TPI warned about low voltage at the distributor, which should be 12-13 V to assure good performance and longevity. I measured only 6 V... They suggest inspecting and/or replacing any corroded connections at the fuse block, which actually had corroded OLD fuses in place when I got it. This requires more research before a solution is found but I will probably install the distributor and note this (additional) caveat for long-time operation...sigh!

 

[HungryMedic]

Have you tried cleaning the contacts and spraying a little contact cleaner on it?

I had all kinds of power issues on the 80. After a day, 2 cans of contact cleaner, some dielectric grease and a migraine later I had much better connections

 

[Bang Bang]

Tim, sooner or later you're gonna learn that with a 40 if it aint broke don't fix it because you will find all the other gremlins that you didn't know were there and then it's like dominos falling over.

 

[HungryMedic]

I'll end up with a rebuilt truck when I'm done with the 80 because of my "while I'm in there" curse.

 

[4xphoenix]

I grew up with these "old" vehicles (all makes are the same) and learned all of the lessons by trial and error, which makes this so much fun, like a trip down memory lane. I now have 12 V as I should with the new coil and distributor, and it starts instantly. As a necessary future repair (for reliability), I now have a generic wiring harness from Spectre, which I am looking forward to installing. The timing issue is a non-starter; I can't tell you how many of these vehicles I learned to time by listening as I rotated the distributor...LOL...but it works as long as you aren't looking for low emissions on an engine (vintage 1929) that produces peak horsepower at 3500 RPM and peak torque at 2500 RPM.

With the ignition system pretty much working, and much improved, I will now begin installation of the Weber carb. I have no useful photos of the coil/distributor because it looks the same except the coil is dry and looks like it came from a 60's TV set...LOL!

 

[4xphoenix]

The driveline upgrade is on track and I have begun disassembling the front axle. The brakes are like-new but the spacers really reduced the lug-bolt thread contact substantially, and the bolts were substantially looser than 85 ft-pts. Here is a pic of the spacers and protruding lug bolt...

 

[4xphoenix]

I began removing the rt knuckle today but I wanted to get any input on the knuckle dowel removal method because the rebuild kit didn't include new ones. I don't want to destroy them getting the steering arm off. I have looked at several threads on this and there is no simple answer.

I also noted that I am unlucky; the replacement birfields I bought last summer won't fit because they are 10 spline...won't fit the disk brake hubs from Justin.

 

[Southern01Taco]

If I can remember right or am even thinking of the correct thing, the studs should have cone washers on them facing down. Tap around them with a hammer then use a small flathead or something to pop them out. Then you should be able to pry the steering arm straight up with a prybar or something. Like I said, don't take my word on this because when we pulled that knuckle apart, it was raining, late in the day, and on a dead end trail lol.

 

[Bang Bang]

Since you are this far in and setting this up as a dedicated trail rig get the chromoly axles and birfs now. Go Longfield or Nitro. Back when I recommended you to get those birds I didn't know you were planning to convert to disk brakes.

As for your question, I pulled up a youtube video while we were trail fixing this (what Sean is referring to) and Matt was able to get them to pop loose. There are cone washers in there that you have to get them out. I believe the method we used was to back the nut off to the top of the threads and hit it with a hammer. The nut keeps you from damaging the threads. I'll see if I can find the same video and link it here. In the mean time, maybe @LouisianaFJ can help out.