Phoenix gets a new set of underwear (driveline upgrades to my FJ40) (1 Viewer)

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Now that I am doing the air-locker install, I will be more methodical. I got a list (kinda) from Paul K. about some things to watch for. I will refer to this "list" during the procedure. For this post I will add responses below the itemized list.



  1. 0.0. ya gona find that that puller isn`t thin enough to pull the carrier bearings if ya are &

    0.1. I hope you are replacing all the bearings .

    As it turns out (see previous post) I am replacing the ring and pinions as well; thus I will not be pulling any carrier bearings; however, I procured a large-bearing puller from HF that would work.
  2. are ya doing a crush sleeve or solid.? This comment opens a can of worms. I had the same response as Bronco... did on the youtube video...there was no sleeve in this pullout. The OEM pinion has a shoulder behind the fwd bearing and a couple of washers were located there. There was another under the rear bearing race. The new 4.56 gears require a spacer. I am using a solid spacer ($40). Apparently, all aftermarket R&Ps use 27 spline and are shaped liked this. I will be buying a new pinion flange (another $36...cha ching).
  3. ps not sure the step drill will have enough shoulder depth to make a straight hole for the air line bulkhead fitting. I think this is why he was having trouble tapping the hole. I will use the old-school method and just drill the f*** hole...

  4. what are ya gona use the chisels for ? They weren't chisels but pry bars. I am using them all of the time...a lot better than screwdrivers.

  5. need to fab a spanner to fit the carrier bearing nuts . Or buy one...?

  6. plenty never seize strong holder to mount third. I am not sure what this is.

  7. if ya go crush sleeve need inch lb torque wrench up to 50 & half of LLK to pull the sleeve in to proper depth. NA

  8. get a couple hard nuts that fit the pinion don`t want to use the new one. I will buy new pinion nuts but I think this comment refers to (6) ...

  9. red thread lock ...where?

  10. lots n lots cleaner n rags non lint. No s***!

  11. matching paste & I have no idea wtf this refers to...

  12. lots n lots of patients . This I have in spades!

  13. keep us up dated take some pics...I have had minimal tech response thus far...

  14. well all can sat is good luck didn`t see a single HB tool

  15. way tooooo loose on the bearings if he runs anything past std tires puts in in a bind will be replacing R&P if not carrier as well ... please elaborate?...I will find available Toyota documentation...help here is greatly appreciated.

  16. no lube on assm didn`t check his pattern if he leaves the air line where it is will smash it when he puts it in the housing TG he has a rear cover so can watch it. ...A major concern of mine as well...he probably plans to smash it as being better than the ring gear cutting it...LOL

  17. never ever seen bearing caps n nuts installed that way guess it can work. ..I will follow ARBs instructions and any available documentation. There is some expert advice available on line.

  18. ARB & TJM both like 30 minutes of air held with no additional supply .an air locker that leaks sucks big time on the trail. ...I was going for 24 hours?

  19. ya don`t have a shop compressor in your rig ...I may be expecting too much and relax to 30 minutes...LOL

  20. over all he covers the basics. ...Not really; with the parts in my hands, I have questions he didn't answer or even address.

  21. guess that is why ya see a lot or R&P replacement after done under a tree & a six pack R too. and ...I can't guarantee no six pack...lol...but I like consistent correct work.

  22. yes Tim want to see a far superior & pro job that dim vids:)...I will do it like it flies, with hundreds of lives on the line...can't help it...
 
I'm enjoying following along.

Looks like you are as meticulous as I am.
 
I have gotten the correct 4.56 gears from Red Line and today ordered the rear/inner pinion bearing. I guess I have to break out the welder to fab the carrier bearing adjuster. The instructions for the gears are pretty explicit but they also do not mention assembly lube, which seems a little curious to me...it could affect the preload measurements. The ring gear almost slips onto the air locker. Here is a photo of the parts...I took the opportunity to clean up the carrier...
2015-03-13 16.33.40.jpg
 
I have another delay; the inner pinion gear is not yet available. I installed the ring gear today; 250F for 40 minutes and it fell on. It took all I could do to reach 70 lb-ft of torque for all 12 bolds with this setup and my bad shoulders...
2015.3.17.JPG
 
better get that shoulder working cause ya gona have to put way more on the carrier bearings than70 lb.
 
are you using a crush sleeve or solid spacer on pinion?
after reviewing the pic saw the crush sleeve. same goes of it as the carrier nuts . better get ya a young-un wit lots of muskles as popeye would say:)
 
I will adjust the preload on the carrier bearings to the required torque, which isn't given in either the ARB or Nitro documents...Do you have that number Paul. I will look (again) for real Toyota documentation on the web but it is not easy to find. Here is the setup for installing the pinion inner and carrier bearings with the press...perfect fit.
pos-1.jpg
 
Do you have the FSM for your truck?

There is a free version of most on this forum.

Give me a sec I'll find it.
 
While waiting for the pinion inner bearing from Cruiser Outfitters, I tried one of my Chinese bearing separators on the junk one. Here is a photo of what you get when you combine Chinese technology with American Capitalism...
pos-2.jpg
Lowes only had 3/8 and 1/2 bolts...the best fit to this POS is a 7/16...I will try Home Depot but I don't have a lot of hope about that...LOL!
 
I will check it out, Mike, but it is mostly an exercise in trying to demonstrate that these tools can be used...LOL On a more positive note, the pinion inner bearing arrived today but not the other important parts, and I installed it on the completely different pinion. Here is a photo showing how different the OEM (1974) and aftermarket pinion/bearings are...

I guess I start from scratch on pinion depth, preload, etc...LOL!

pos-3.JPG
 
The pinion flange and new nut arrived just now. It looks like I will need to pull the new outer (small) bearing on with the old nut because it doesn't slip on like the old one, which also does not slide easily on the new pinion. Since this will likely be removed a couple of times to get the pinion depth and preload correct, I will use the press to remove the bearing. I will post a photo tomorrow when I do the first trial. Nitro doesn't mention a tighter fit in their instructions...
 
I have checked both old/new pinion shafts/bearings and everything measures 1.18 inches on my cheap caliper, but I got measurements as low as 1.17 on all parts. I was planning to construct a support for the pinion in the pull-out when I remembered heat, with the help of a cheezy video on You Tube. I will try heating the outer bearing in the oven and see if it slips on...I can remove it easily with the press even in the pull-out. While this is a patience-testing method, it will be reproducible for multiple measurements of pinion depth and preload.
 
Well...250 F didn't work well enough. The outer pinion bearing would slip on easily only after moving it around some, which is impossible with it installed in the pull-out because it sets down in the front of the diff and it sticks as soon as it touches the pinion gear even with grease. I will try 350 F tomorrow...

The carrier bearings were a breeze with the 2 inch pipe mandrel on the press.
 

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