PHH OEM style close up pics

[Chris FJ80]

I changed out my PHH today. Took a long time. I don't know how some guys get this done in a couple of hours -- took me all day.

With so many great write ups out there I am not going to attempt another complete description, but grabbed some close up pics that might help the next guy.

Note: my hood is off (rebuilding after some wheeling damage), which made access to the heater valve / top of the PHH assembly somewhat easier.

Pics and notes below:

1. PHH hose before removal

2. PHH tube and engine nipple after cutting away the PHH hose

3. Removing the heater valve and engine wiring harness holder

4. The infamous lower PHH mounting bolt, just to the left of the red electrical connector

5. I was able to get a 12mm ratcheting gear wrench in there, but the bolt was in there so tight that I started to round the head, so switched to a (hex) flare wrench to break it free, then went back to the gear wrench. (Yeah, I have a string tied to it.... wish I had done this before dropping it once down into the abyss!!!)

(continued)

 

[Chris FJ80]

I changed out my PHH today. Took a long time. I don't know how some guys get this done in a couple of hours -- took me all day.

With so many great write ups out there I am not going to attempt another complete description, but grabbed some close up pics that might help the next guy.

Note: my hood is off (rebuilding after some wheeling damage), which made access to the heater valve / top of the PHH assembly somewhat easier.

Pics and notes below:

1. PHH hose before removal
View attachment 942064

2. PHH tube and engine nipple after cutting away the PHH hose
View attachment 942065

3. Removing the heater valve and engine wiring harness holder
View attachment 942066

4. The infamous lower PHH mounting bolt, just to the left of the red electrical connector
View attachment 942067

5. I was able to get a 12mm ratcheting gear wrench in there, but started to strip the threads, so used a (hex) flare wrench to break it free, then went back to the gear wrench. (Yeah, I have a string tied to it.... wish I had done this before dropping it once down into the abyss!!!)
View attachment 942068

(continued)

6. The heater inlet hose was making the wrenching difficult, and I wanted to replace this short hose anyway, so removed it.

7. Here is a close up of that PITA lower bolt. You can see where the corners started to round off.

8. Here are an assortment of pliers and wrenches that came in handy. Note the hose pliers form harbor freight. Useful for removing hoses, but when I tried to use them to get the PHH hose onto the engine nipple I caused some damage to the hose, so had to cut a new piece and start over, using only my hands this time.

9. The heater bypass valve assembly / pieces.

10. The PHH pieces: tube, hose remnants, clamps, and mounting bolts. Note the lower bolt with the string wrapped around it. I lassoed the bolt before it came all the way out so I did not have it dropping down into the black hole.

(continued)

 

[Chris FJ80]

6. The heater inlet hose was making the wrenching difficult, and I wanted to replace this short hose anyway, so removed it.
View attachment 942069


7. Here is a close up of that PITA lower bolt
View attachment 942070


8. Here are an assortment of pliers and wrenches that came in handy. Note the hose pliers form harbor freight. Useful for removing hoses, but when I tried to use them to get the PHH hose onto the engine nipple I caused some damage to the hose, so had to cut a new piece and start over, using only my hands this time.
View attachment 942071


9. The heater bypass valve assembly / pieces.
View attachment 942072


10. The PHH pieces: tube, hose remnants, clamps, and mounting bolts. Note the lower bolt with the string wrapped around it. I lassoed the bolt before it came all the way out so I did not have it dropping down into the black hole.
View attachment 942073

(continued)

11. Gates 5/8" ID hose I used.

12. Hose clamps. I used the constant torque (from NAPA) for the PHH hose itself. Used the other type on the hoses connected to the heater bypass valve.

13. Close up of the constant torque clamps on the PHH hose section. PHH hose section is 2" long.

14. Some of the write ups say to slide the PHH hose onto the tube up to the bend, then fasten the upper bolt to get the PHH assembly in place, then work the PHH hose off the PHH tube and onto the engine nipple. I could not get this to work -- way too much friction to get the hose to slide, even with ample dish soap, so I ended up removing the top bolt to let the assembly have more freedom of movement. I then adjusted the PHH hose so 1" was on the PHH tube and the other 1" was ready to go on the engine nipple. Once I did this, it was relatively easy to get it attached. Still took a lot of pushing and wiggling, but not having it bolted in up top allowed the wiggle room I needed. Here is a pic with the PHH hose almost all the way on and the clamps swinging loose.

15. PHH hose attached and clamps secured. I angled the outer clamp up a little so I could easily access the inner clamp for final tightening.

After getting the PHH hose and assembly back in I put the heater valve assembly back together and back in. All pretty straightforward. I did NOT put the lower PHH bracket bolt back in.

Good luck to whoever is next!

 

[vapilotda]

Nice write up and pics!

 

[ekberger]

Nice write up and that initial photo of the PHH sure looked ugly, I guess it was time for a change.

I recently replace a whole lot of hoses on both my FJ62 and my FZJ80, I mean a whole lot! One trick I found that made the job incredibly easy both getting them off and back on again was to warm the hose at its connection with my heat gun. Sometimes it's a little hard to get the gun into position, but it doesn't take much, but softens the hose up considerably letting you pull it off easily; same goes for reassembly. I know darn well that I'm not the first novice wrenched to do this but to people who are new at the game, it really works.

 

[fj80pb]

Congrats for the excellent write up. BTW, what's the rig mileage?

Cheers

 

[Hornd]

Nice pics and details.
Now that you have done this do you think replacing the whole metal pipe with one section of rubber hose is the way to go?
I think that is the approach I will take. I will use the Gates Green Stripe and Constant Tension clamps.

Did you blow thru the Denso heater valve to see if it held? Guy on here that has done many says that none of the original ones do and he was correct about mine.
Wasn't much but original was leaking when closed. My new one would not allow air past. Part was about $50 or cheap in the Land Cruiser world.
This site has so much invaluable information and experience it's truly priceless.

 

[Backwoods Rambler]

Oh man, I just had my heater valve off, but I didn't know about testing it

I'm not aware of any issue, but it would have been nice to do while it was already out.

Back to the garage...

 

[Chris FJ80]

R

Congrats for the excellent write up. BTW, what's the rig mileage?

Cheers

Rig mileage is 118,000

 

[Chris FJ80]

I did not know about testing the heater valve. I have had problems with the A/C not running as cold as I would like. I've adjusted the cable but not tested the valve itself. I have assumed that the AZ heat and/or a fan clutch that needs to be upgraded were the sources of the problem, but maybe this is part of it...

 

[Tools R Us]

All of the heater valves that we have replaced leaked, don't shut off completely. Possibly a design feature, allows some coolant flow, preventing the coolant from becoming stagnant in the cores, but also somewhat heats the cores? The aftermarket ones that we have used, seal when off.

Have seen more problems/failures with the heater valves than the PHH, it sucks when the nipple breaks off on the trail! Now carry a bypass kit in the spares bag. The plastic is aged, has lots of heat cycles, so brittle, people put those heavy ass clamps, etc, leading to failure. It's become a standard deal, when working in that area to replace the heater valve, if it's been "upgraded" remove the heavy clamps and replace with factory constant tension clip type clamps.

 

[Chris FJ80]

Tools - who sells the aftermarket heater valves? Are they direct swaps for the OEM valve?

 

[bajaphile]

I replaced my heater valve with an OEM. Still doesn't close all the way and the vent air always seems warm. Annoying.

 

[skhochay]

People are spending lot of time to install this pesky hose! but to fix is very simple - the metal pipe that connecting this hose have 2 mounts one on the top one on the middle - so unscrews one on the top and brake one on the middle, yes brake it you do not need that mount. It will hold strong with one top mount and the hose clamps . Took me 10 min to replace it.

 

[streetsoffire]

Just got a PHH kit........however, there's no way in hell I'm gonna attempt to do this job. I was wondering: what kind of cost would you guys attribute to this job? I wanna offer up having this done, but I don't want to lowball the mechanic.

 

[Tools R Us]

Tools - who sells the aftermarket heater valves? Are they direct swaps for the OEM valve?

Rockauto has them, direct fit.

 

[Tools R Us]

I replaced my heater valve with an OEM. Still doesn't close all the way and the vent air always seems warm. Annoying.

Correct, they leak, likely by design.

 

[JCruse]

I recently noticed that if the temp slider is even just a tiny bit off of full cold, pushed firmly all the way to the left, the hvac blows hot. Very hot. This is with outside temps in the 70's. Does this sound right?

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

<SNIP>

After getting the PHH hose and assembly back in I put the heater valve assembly back together and back in. All pretty straightforward. I did NOT put the lower PHH bracket bolt back in.

Good luck to whoever is next!

I wanted the lower bolt in my PHH tube assembly in and found out installing a short stud the tube bracket and then a nut was the way to accomplish this.

Nice pictures and write up

 

[mphilleo]

I don't want to be "that guy" but it's reasons like this that I'm okay with having a 3FE.

My wife and I once spent 4-6 hours doing spark plugs on a '96 Buick Roadmaster (the LT1 engine) and that was an experience I would not wish on my worst enemy.