Have you guys seen this chip, does it even work
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tem=7908854909&category=33597&sspagename=WD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tem=7908854909&category=33597&sspagename=WD1V
Peformance Chip for 80
- Thread starter Biff
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really not sure on this for 80's ..... not the theory or idea because I have plenty of buddies who have "chips" in their Duramax's, audi's, and i have even seen them in Heeps as of late. and they WORK... no questions asked.. i just have yet to see on or know of any one using one in an 80........ BUY it. let us know how it works... or contact him and tell him your a member of a forum and would do a product review if he gives you a discount...
B/C I don't want to go into the intricacies of it all, NO. Run with that.
Biff, I've really researched this chip thing for my rig and determined with the help of experienced experts that the factory computer is the most reliable method for running your rig. I have a UniChip, never used, sitting in storage. I'm not necessarily familiar with the way the 94 rigs compare but for 95 - 97, apparently, the fuel map and ignition curves are so good that it takes incredible amounts of energy and effort to improve them. Another problem with chips is that they take the tuning thing to another level alltogether in the sense that it is important to tune the rig on a four wheel dyno - not something sitting spare in my garage and not something I want to pay for each and every time I tune the rig. P.S. I've PM'ed you about your mats. Thanks.
hoser
SILVER Star
NW-sickboy said:
Yes, aftermarkets chips for turbo cars can give you significant, even huge gains. But most chips I've seen have little or no benefit for naturally aspirated engines. Unless you modify, supercharge or turbocharge your engine, the stock fuel maps and timing curves should be quite optimal for all-around power, fuel mileage and reliability.
the shed guy said:
Woweeeee, 10 psi boost!!!!!!!!!! I'm running in 6 to 6.5 psi range. I admit I am confused by what you mean by, "fix any detonation problems with 10 psi boost". Are you saying that the more the boost, the lower the detonation? Or, are you saying that at 10 psi compared to say 15 psi, you wont have detonation problems! Wow, 10 psi, wow wow wow wow, that thing must move awfully fast! Wow!
Raising boost pressure INCREASES chances of detonation. Some ways to control detonation are: higher octane gas, intercooler, enlarge combustion chamber in head, raise head with another head gasket, cooler spark plug, make sure EGR is working well, etc. Of course retarding the timing and boost also reduce the chances for detonation. One other thing that may help is a rising rate regulator to try to keep from running a lean condition.
<Edit> Oh, you can also add a Alcohol/water or Methanol/water injection system.
I've seen Shed post that before and also wondered what exactly was done to control detonation.
Bill
<Edit> Oh, you can also add a Alcohol/water or Methanol/water injection system.
I've seen Shed post that before and also wondered what exactly was done to control detonation.
Bill
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Jimmeney X-mas I can't imagine 10psi boost. My rig is only running 3.5psi and that absolutely kicks a! I'd be afraid I really screw something up running that much. I was thinking about getting the fuel pump from the turbo supra and putting it in my rig and maybe upping the boost to 5 or 6 but 10 is just to rich for my blood.
reffug said:
IIRC, the factory setting from safari is 6 to 8 psi. You should run somewhere around 6 at minimum. I think 10psi is totally insane although I regularly talk to tuners who tell me that 18 to 20 is possible with stock setup!!!! I think they want to see the head shoot through the hood! Anyway, 6 psi is possible with no worry. More boost, more boost, more boost, bang!!! I wish Shed would clarify the 10psi thing. How is he making it work without detonating and destroying things. Man that rig must run like crazy - he's probably pumping 400 HP. Woweeee! Woweeee!
the shed guy said:
Wow man, you are my hero! I would have loved to run your rig with you when you did the racing. What a rush. Wow Wow Wow. BTW can yanks come over and register to ride shotgun with someone? I'd volunteer to change tires or change fluids and filters, dig people out, rescue broken rigs, serve as human sand mat, whatever would help, I'm the man for the job!!!! What a rush.
turbocruiser said:
You mean you didn't install the UniChip that came as part of your turbo install?
Yomama
Craig Martin was the man who drove the 80 in the 2 Safari's here 95 and 96.
And the truck I mentioned earlier is running 20 psi boost on his [my old] 4.5 engine, his is auto running 38" swampers.
And the truck I mentioned earlier is running 20 psi boost on his [my old] 4.5 engine, his is auto running 38" swampers.
yomama said:
That is right, my UniChip is not installed, it is instead sitting in storage and probably will never work its way to my rig. Several super respected experts convinced me that the chip is so much less reliable than the stock computer, it is not worth it to install it, they also convinced me that the stock computer is so much more capable in the 95 -97 models in terms of fuel map, timing curves, etc. that it is really unecessary to install the chip. I was convinced.
turbocruiser said:
Interesting..... I have mine installed and have had no problems. Been two years now.
The company that designed this whole system must have felt there was a reason for it. Hey it is your rig and sometimes less is better, I just find it hard to believe that even though yes the onboard maybe very capable, I find it hard to believe it was designed with the extreme range the turbo adds to it.
Yomama
I just removed my Unichip from my 80 that has a Safari turbo system. I can't tell any difference in the way it runs from a performance standpoint. How do you go about tuning the Unichip Shed Guy. I had to remove my chip since it has an intermittent failure problem when it gets hot. Were you using the original Aussie made chip or the smaller, later chip? Thanks!
Shed,
Did that engine have a cast iron block and aluminum head? I assume it was a 95 or earlier motor since that was when you said you were running it but don't know how they were configured there at that time. Just wondering if you were getting that kind of boost with the US 95-97 setup since they appear to have more HG isues.
Bill
Did that engine have a cast iron block and aluminum head? I assume it was a 95 or earlier motor since that was when you said you were running it but don't know how they were configured there at that time. Just wondering if you were getting that kind of boost with the US 95-97 setup since they appear to have more HG isues.
Bill
Tom Doniphon said:
I have the original that came with the Safari system. Here is the response I got from Air Power Systems in regard to their chip they include with the Safari package.
"While it’s true the factory computer copes adequately for the turbo system, the custom tuning ability of a piggy back computer will make for a better state of tune. - Obviously in the hands of an experienced dyno tuner."
I had heating issues with my starter, not anything else. After swapping in a Mean Green starter I have not had any issues with it not starting after being hot since.
Interesting, I asked where I should install the boost gauge that I got from Junk and they told me anywhere on the intake manifold perferably "T"'ed into something none critical like the charcoal canister line. So the boost gauge is only reading vacuum from the intake?
I thought I would have to connect into that short blow by line on the turbo?
Anyone else know where your boost is measured from, is it only the intake pressure?
Yomama
Yomama,
I will try to take a shot of my setup and send it if it would help. Let me know.
I will try to take a shot of my setup and send it if it would help. Let me know.
