PDX-area recco for AHC diagnostics, possible work? (1 Viewer)

[suprarx7nut]

Kind words, and I appreciate them, as well as everyone sharing the help here.
It can be tough to learn a new skill, but reading your email I was reminded how I got started in remodeling decades ago, back when all I owned was an Ace hardware nail bag and a 12' tape...you got to want to learn & be intentional about it. I always firewalled vehicle maintenance ( "I don't know anything about that stuff") from the carpentry, plumbing, and electrical that I was learning along the way, but of course the approach/attitude is the same.
Plus, I just learned that one our good local LC shops closed down this past spring, so now also more of a practical necessity.
And yes, my approach to having three tons of metal over my head will be = opening up a service panel. Overthink it & take your time.

If you can work through carpentry, plumbing and electrical you can definitely handle most mechanic work. It's just nuts and bolts.... and techstream.

 

[OregonB]

talked to Slee, I'm gonna try using factory LC springs. It's not a lot of $ relatively, and the thinking is, I'm not looking to get a big lift and mess with the AHC. If it doesn't help the rear pressures, I'll wait for the Kings to re- appear on the market and then try those. That's my thought process at least for now.
Only other idea is, while I've got the rear up and the wheels off, why not replace the stock rear shocks? 188k miles, and already in there... I've got a grinder, and time on my hands.

 

[ramangain]

Crank your tbars more before buying rear springs. Get the front pressure to 6.7 then reevaluate the rears. Cranking tbars is free, new rear springs are not.

 

[OregonB]

Ok.
I found my notes on the new distances from bottom of wheel well to centerline wheel. After 7 tb crank turns, I'm at 19-5/8" driver, 20" passenger. Thought I read here where the recommended spec was 19.75" (19-3/4). Knowing roughly you get .2" with ea full turn, I'll bump the driver side one turn, but I'm already over on the passenger. Am I misunderstanding this? Thanks.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Ok.
I found my notes on the new distances from bottom of wheel well to centerline wheel. After 7 tb crank turns, I'm at 19-5/8" driver, 20" passenger. Thought I read here where the recommended spec was 19.75" (19-3/4). Knowing roughly you get .2" with ea full turn, I'll bump the driver side one turn, but I'm already over on the passenger. Am I misunderstanding this? Thanks.

An important thing to understand is that the torsion bar adjustments have NOTHING to do with ride height on an AHC vehicle. The height sensors set height (by axle only, not by side). The torsion bars set the pressure and the left to right balance. If your pressure is high and one side is low in height, crank that torsion bar. Recheck and try again. If you get side to side even, crank both bars equally from there forward until pressures are on the low end of spec.

 

[OregonB]

Got it. The .2/crank # was for pressure change, not height. Failed the quiz.

 

[LndXrsr]

Coming along nicely! Glad to see another AHC setup going strong!

 

[OregonB]

Yeah only thing left is getting my Night Vision working again. Can't drive at night without that Night Vision.

 

[ramangain]

@nukegoat will be there in the morning to help you with night vision.

Some say he replaced his eyeballs with IR cameras ....

 

[OregonB]

Searching threads with keywords: Night Vision + new spare storage on dash