parts for birfield repack (1 Viewer)

[9780]

hey all,
I have been reading that cruiser dan can get ahold of toyota factory service manual and all of the parts that I need to do the front birfields . I sure would like to get those items. Does that come in a kit like I have seen elsewhere or should I just go to the dealer? Dealer said about a month for fsm to arrive. I haven't asked about front gaskets and seals yet. I thought I would see what you guys recommend.
Thanks,
Mark

 

[IdahoDoug]

It's hard to even answer this question without feeling silly about it. Why? Why? Why would you even consider spending so much more at your local dealer and chance having the wrong parts arrive? It's almost beyond my comprehension that someone would ask it. These are not your words, but here's what you are asking to me when I read your post:

"Guys,

Should I pay full retail plus at my local dealer who knows virtually nothing about the 80 series? Is it really, really annoying to find in the middle of the repack process that they gave me a 60 series side plate gasket, or just kind of 'one of those things' (shrugs)? And should I also pay full retail for the FSM and wait a month for it? Or, should I order the stuff from CDan and save money, time and aggravation? I'm not sure what to do here, so help me out. Thanks."

Seriously, Mark. He's an 80 enthusiast who runs a parts operation at a Toyota dealership - what more could you possibly need?

DougM

 

[cruiserdan]

Doug, that reminds me.

Your promotional contract is about to expire. We need to get togther to extend it

Mark,

The knuckle gaskets and seals come from Toyota in a kit (04434-60051) or "loose". It is much cheaper to go the loose route. It will save you almost enough to cover the cost of new trunion bearings.(You are going to put new trunions in, aren't you?)

TMS has Toyota and Lexus divorced, so to speak, and since you have a 450 you will need to visit a Lexus dealer to get 450 specific components. For example the exterior trim mouldings, audio components and so on. The 450 FSM falls under that category. I have a 97 LC FSM in stock and it would tell you most of what you need to know but the Lexus-specific items would be missing. The front axle components are identical.





D-

 

[IdahoDoug]

:-X Sorry, that was kinda harsh...

Doug

 

[cruiseroutfit]

[quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=7609;start=msg63720#msg63720 date=1068970824]...local dealer who knows virtually nothing about the 80 series? Is it really, really annoying to find in the middle of the repack process that they gave me a 60 series side plate gasket, or just kind of 'one of those things' (shrugs)? ...[/quote]

Glad my local dealerships are fully of cruiserheads... Seriously, if I'm not calling them for parts, they are calling me for parts or questions... we use it to our advantages...

CruiserDan, what is the estimated cost of all the necissary knuckle rebuild parts from Toyota?

 

[cruiserdan]

If you piece what comes in the 04434-60051 kit and add trunion bearings, inner axle seals, lock washers and wheel bearing seals, the list price adds up to about 255 bucks +/-. That is from memory and not exact but very close. Smart shoppers pay about 190 bucks.


D-

 

[landandsea]

[quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=7609;start=msg63925#msg63925 date=1069029265]
:-X Sorry, that was kinda harsh...
[/quote]

Don't be sorry; I got a good laugh out of it.

Ed

 

[9780]

C dan, all,

I have read that you recommend 2 torque wrenches as the value in the middle of the scale is most accurate. ( 0-100 ft/lbs wrench would be most accurate measuring 40-60 ft/lbs of torque, my estimate)
My question is , if you had to buy only one torque wrench for a birfield repack and some brake pad replacement jobs, which size would you buy?
Can I purchase a 97 tlc fsm from you? How do I pay? Check?
I will study this manual and then order parts for my b-repack if possible.

Thanks so much
Mark

 

[scottm]

cdan, how much more for stuff for a rear axle bearing job? I have to clean out both axles on both trucks one of these days.

 

[cruiserdan]

Mark,

PM me at your leisure and we can discuss options.

Scott,

The rear axle job is straight forward. You need 2 wheel bearing seals, 2 axle shaft seals and 2 axle flange gaskets. That's it. The tool to remove the rear wheel bearing nuts is very nice to have but not absolutely required. Perhaps Doug has one, if not I could supply one that you could share.

D-

 

[IdahoDoug]

How much this SST is for inquiring consumers so we don't have to mess w/ making something? Perhaps we'll split it as the timing is good for you to use it, then I'll need it in about 2 yrs. We'll just stay on that schedule, eh? Heh.

Doug

 

[Riley]

Yea, I'm interested in this SST as well. Dan can you post the smart shopper price?

My rear wheel bearing are on my hit list as well. The front were so much fun that I thought I'd do it again.

 

[Beowulf]

This is what the SST looks like.

 

[Riley]

Looks like I need to spend sometime with my FSM tonight

 

[Beowulf]

Riley,
The rear axle is quick and easy.
-B-

 

[IdahoDoug]

Yep, piece o'cake. Evening deal, actually. I made mine a half day deal by also replacing the brake rotors and the lug bolts w/ fresh factory ones.

DougM

 

[Riley]

As I look at the FSM just a couple of questions:

Is the axle tube is fairly close to the end of the axle so I can get the seal puller on it?
i.e. like the front axle seals??

Do you guys bother with a special race installer tool for the wheel bearings?

Sorry if I already asked this but to me it seems to be a pain using the drift on the inside? races. If I could get a $15 tool that was just the right size, it would be worth it. Were doing Simon's front axle this weekend and with my rears coming up, I'd like to be prepared.

Riley

 

[Beowulf]

>> Is the axle tube is fairly close to the end of the axle <<

Yes. A T-handle seal puller works OK.

>> Do you guys bother with a special race installer tool for the wheel bearings? <<

Nope. Brass drift works OK.

-B-

 

[IdahoDoug]

The rear axle tube seal is easier to get to than the front by far. For installing the wheel bearings, I'll go with Wulfy's answer - piece o' cake. I bought a 3/8" brass rod about 3 feet long and split it with a buddy. Fits perfectly into the little cutouts on all the 80's bearings (front and rear) to knock races out. Installing is simple as well - sometimes you can use the old race to pound in the newer one on deeper installs. Be sure to orient the old race correctly so you have an edge to pound out after seating the new race.

DougM

 

[Rich]

Bearing & seal driver kits are inexpensive, but you'll likely have to spend more than $15. I've not done LC axles. I have a boat trailer that has been used mostly in salt water. I remove, clean, and replace the axle bearings yearly. As the seals are a very tight fit, and easy to bend and destroy if not driven in straight, I purchased a set similar to these: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-12980.html . They are nothing but round discs of aluminum and a handle.