Parking brake adjustments after replacing shoes.

[cmassa]

I recently replaced all the brakes and rotors, including the parking brake shoes on my 2003 LC. I have adjusted the parking brake according to the FSM. The adjuster is backed out 8 notches. Now when I adjust the stops at the brake, I have to screw them all the way in and there is still too much clearance from the pad to the plate. I've also adjusted the cable as far in as it will go but the parking brake will barely hold the vehicle. If I put it in drive idling it might roll a bit. Everything went back to together as it should but the parking brake is worse than it was before. I used Napa parking brake shoes. Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Rebus Knebus]

The pdf linked in this thread helped when I was working my parking brake: Loose Hand Brake Cable - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/loose-hand-brake-cable.1296835/#post-14663012

 

[2001LC]

I recently replaced all the brakes and rotors, including the parking brake shoes on my 2003 LC. I have adjusted the parking brake according to the FSM. The adjuster is backed out 8 notches. Now when I adjust the stops at the brake, I have to screw them all the way in and there is still too much clearance from the pad to the plate. I've also adjusted the cable as far in as it will go but the parking brake will barely hold the vehicle. If I put it in drive idling it might roll a bit. Everything went back to together as it should but the parking brake is worse than it was before. I used Napa parking brake shoes. Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks,
Chris

We travel down a rabbit hole, anytime non-OEM parts used.

1. Check to make sure the 8 click back-off, was from where adjustor would not turn more and shoes hold drum firm/lock Make sure too have a minimum of 3 lug holding drum on. If this adjustment is correct, pull the drums (rotors).
2. Inspect for proper assembly of shoes. If this correct, measure ID of drums.
3. If drums measure within limit. You'll need to check size of shoes.
4. Only way I can think of too make sure shoes proper size. Compare to OEM.

 

[cmassa]

I've still not been able to fix my parking brake. The drums are new OEM. The shoes are new NAPA. I pulled one side apart and compared the old OEM to the new NAPA shoes and they look identical, holding them together I can't see any differences in size. I am unable to take up the slack in the linkage with the adjusting bolt on the dust shield/back plate per the FSM. I had backed off the adjuster 8 clicks as in the FSM. There appears to be excess movement/play in the shoe lever before the shoes start to move. The bolts are still all the way in and there is still play in the linkage. I've tightened up the cable to take up the slack but the parking brake still barely works.

Am I now just stuck buying OEM parking brake shoes? Any other ideas why there is so much more slack now? With the old OEM shoes, the adjustment bolts were less than half turned in.

Chris

 

[uHu]

I've still not been able to fix my parking brake. The drums are new OEM. The shoes are new NAPA. I pulled one side apart and compared the old OEM to the new NAPA shoes and they look identical, holding them together I can't see any differences in size. I am unable to take up the slack in the linkage with the adjusting bolt on the dust shield/back plate per the FSM. I had backed off the adjuster 8 clicks as in the FSM. There appears to be excess movement/play in the shoe lever before the shoes start to move. The bolts are still all the way in and there is still play in the linkage. I've tightened up the cable to take up the slack but the parking brake still barely works.

Am I now just stuck buying OEM parking brake shoes? Any other ideas why there is so much more slack now? With the old OEM shoes, the adjustment bolts were less than half turned in.

Chris

What I found was that if you follow the steps in the FSM carefully, you will succeed. The adjustment is slightly different than on some other cars, and I couldn't get my head around it the first time. (Can't remember the details tho').
Problems might be:
- Too high friction in the bellcrank - needs annual clean and lube.
- Too high friction in hand brake wire (between handle and rear axle) (buy a new one).
- Front and rear return springs swapped.
Using all new springs help, and a complete disassembly, cleaning and lube helps.

I tried an alternative "better" handbrake kit form OZ, with shoes and springs. The shoes were lousy, no grip. The springs were stronger. (Cost a fortune, but oem is better).
I have tried som napa brake parts, but found out that they do not fit exactly, just a lot of extra work to make them fit. For brake parts, I think there is nothing better than OEM.

 

[SteveH]

I replaced the axle in my Lexus with a '99 locking axle from a junkyard, whose parking brake didn't work, just like my original axle.

I may burn in flames on this forum, but I just pulled the rear disk/drums, adjusted the star wheel until the drum would not fit over the shoes, and then turned in the star wheel until I could just get the drums to slip on over the shoes. It was all the adjustment I needed - I get 5-6 clicks and it locks the rear brakes firmly. Nothing drags or squeaks or generates heat.

 

[Bear Lake Cruiser]

What SteveH says in above post. Same experience here.

 

[Bisho]

I just replaced the shoes and adjusted mine. It’s really easy to back the adjuster off two clicks and think you only did one. When I really focused on only moving the adjuster 8 clicks, I was successful.

 

[cmassa]

I followed the procedures exactly in the FSM for brake service. It's a California rig so it's rust free and the bellcranks move easily and have never required any specific service. On the last try, I only backed off 5-6 clicks and was very careful that I was only grabbing one click on the adjuster. It's a little better but I still can't take up all the slack in the linkage as specified in the FSM. All the springs and cables move fine. The only difference is the Napa shoes and springs. I may just have to buy the OEM and do it all over again but I'm really tired of taking the rear apart.

 

[beatle_bayly]

The park brake design is extremely sensitive to any wear in any of the components. So you need to ensure that the drum and shoes measure within factory specs for a start. But even if the shoes measure OK, they could be slightly 'wrong' if they are aftermarket (pivot points just a few thou different to OEM). Then it all comes down to wear at any/all metal-to-metal contact points.
And, just like the 80 series, I've not seen any vehicles where the problem was a stretched handbrake cable.

I have the same out of adjustment issue with the backing pad bolts. I've purchased some aftermarket/longer dogbones as a band-aid, but yet to install them.

 

[badlander]

How did the OEM lever fit onto the new aftermarket front shoe? If the pin on the shoe is undersize and too small for the hole in the lever, it would add extra slack in the take-up adjustment......

 

[badlander]

Another thought:
When the FSM talks about taking up the slack in the linkage it is refering to the "linkage" only. This should be a fairly small amount of movement. Do not try to adjust until the shoes actually move or engage the drum.
Forget the above, I was wrong about that. I'm now in the process of refurbishing my emergency brakes with new oem shoes and drum/rotors. As the fsm says, back off 8 clicks and pull out on the bellcrank until the slop is taken up, shoes are engaged with drum and adjust rubber bumper. I left mine at about 1/8" clearance rather than the one turn out per manual. That seems a little close to me but I'll see how this works. Still on jack stands.

 

[cmassa]

Well, I fixed the parking brake. I replaced the new Napa shoes with oem shoes and the adjustment is right back where it's supposed to be. And it will actually hold the vehicle now! I can't see any difference but the tolerances must be different. With the Napa shoes there was no way to take up the slack in the linkage with the bumper before the adjustment screw was at full travel.

Chris

 

[awesomeissquid]

Did you have to do any of the grinding on the new shoes that the FSM talks about?

 

[cmassa]

No. But I was never planning to do it anyway. It's holding fine and it's just a parking brake. I'm hoping that new drums match up with new shoes the way they're supposed to.

 

[uHu]

....holding fine and it's just a parking brake....

On a 100, to say "Just a parking brake" can be a bit misleading. WHEN, not IF, the booster fails, you will have so little stopping power left that the parking brake can be saving your life, or someone else's. Keep it in good shape - service annually.
(Sorry to sound a bit blunt, just trying to help staying safe)

 

[Mike NXP]

Taking the lazy way out here, and just asking instead of searching around and reading...

How would someone go about loosening the e-brake so the pads aren't so close to the drum? I ask because I've got this intermittent "tick tick tick tick" rotational noise going on... It sounds like a rock in the tire , but it's not that.

• When I crank the e-brake I think the noise changes / goes away
• A few months ago I had a mechanic try to adjust the e-brake / tighten everything up so I could get some life out of it but that didn't work out , said pads are too worn out but I know they tightened up all the adjustments or whatever , so maybe a bit too tight and now I'm getting this noise?

Any advice from the Mud world for this type of issue?

 

[Eyedaho]

It sucks. There's a small hole in the rotor that you have to line up at the bottom center, then stick a screwdriver in there and try to turn the little toothed wheel a click at a time. It's easier imo to just pull the rotor/drum off and make the adjustment if you're trying to just loosen it a little bit. Then you can actually see how it works too.

 

[2001LC]

Often time when we get a scarping or clicking sound from rear rotors. It the oil deflector gasket broken and a piece fell into drum. They are busted by lug bolt being over torqued.

Other times, the shoe retainer pin has been damaged. resulting in shoe not being held tight against brake backing (dust) plate. Pin's, get damaged, when removing rotor without backing off shoes.

When pulling the rear rotors off. We first mark position on rear wheel axle hub. So we can install at same orientation (run out). We then, need to adjust the E-brake shoe adjusters' (star adjuster), so the shoes don't get hung-up on drum of rotor. Otherwise, if shoes get hung-up, we may pull shoes with drum. This damages, the shoes retaining pins.

Pins

Pin with spring and lock plate on shoe

When installing rotors or just wanting to adjust shoes. We turn the star adjust, until they shoes make contact (can't turn rotor) drum. Then back off 8 clicks.

 

[Mike NXP]

Thanks for the responses above, lots of good info. A little bit intimidating just because I haven't worked on any of these component before.

The clicking / rotational ticking noise seems to come and go, and it also seems to happen more when I am driving slow. Sometimes when I pull the e-brake the noise goes away but I think that may be a coincidence....Today it was clicking pretty consistently , I don't think it's damaging anything but I need to figure out and fix whatever is going on... I was in denial for so long and was hoping it was a rock stuck in tire lol ... nope