Any recommendations on prepping and painting sliders and skids. Last set was primed and painted. Now, I hear about Bedliner products, POR etc. Suggestions??
I did the sliders, skids, etc on my FJC and FJ60.......here are some of my personal opinion after doing a few different things...others mileage may vary:
- bedliner is too thick and soft..once you gouge or scrape it on rocks it starts peeling off. I think it is good if you want to do something hard on just the top part for grip like Line-X but most of the other is even two soft for that with rocks in boots and such stepping on it daily. Not durable result.
- Powder coating is great looking but does not touch up as well if you actually wheel your vehicle and scrape or gouge them good. Some rattle can does the trick but never a match in color or texture if that is your thing.
- I preferred two to three coats of rustoleum primer.....thoroughly dry between coats. Then I put on 2-3 coats of rustoleum hammer finish black on the sliders....and just flat or semi gloss black on sliders. Keep a couple cans with you at garage and some cardboard so you can go around after vehicle is cleaned and dry to hit the bare spots you will get on the trail. Worked great...painless...and cardboard keeps overspray off your body paint.
-POR I thought did not do well if exposed to UV light (sunshine) so you would have to paint over it anyhow and seems like overkill when a good primer (after wiping down steel with acetone good first)....and paint will be as effective for less money.
my new setup on UZJ100 is all powder coat for bumpers....as I wanted even finish and the durability for daily driving on front and top surfaces.... sliders i powdercoated ONLY because it was middle of winter and wet and did not have room in garage to do them without risking overspray on wifes car or my motorcycle....so had them powdered. I prefer the primer and hammered finish look on sliders...semi gloss on skid plates and bumpers and they can be very nice looking and durable as well for regular offroad uses.
I've had really good results with rustoleum "stops rust" primers and paints which have a rust converter mixed in. I use the flat black flavor for touch ups on just about everything, rusty or not, knowing that if there was any surface rust I couldn't see the paint would take care of it. Seems to work great. I used it to paint the hardware on my ARB and touch up some of the underside of the truck and have been pleased, matches the powder finish on the ARB decently too (in small doses at least).
Too bad my ARB has corrosion on the powdercoated inner welds already...I guess they missed a few spots. Time to buy a few more cans of rustoleum I guess.
The best paint I have found for this stuff is Krylon Appliance epoxy. I never screw around with primer, just clean the surface with solvent, I use 99% pure isopropyl alcohol. I've found that one or two heavy coats will self level better than several light coats, unlike other rattle can paints I've used.
I painted the vents and trim on my FJ60 with black appliance epoxy a couple of years ago and they still look like new even though the truck is outside 24/7. This tells me it has good UV resistance.
Touch up is fairly easy, just sand to level the scratch then hose on more paint. Most of the scratches will be on the underside so even if it doesn't look perfect it won't be noticeable. The main thing is to seal the metal and stop corrosion.
I would never use truck bed liner, it just fails after a year or two. And it's hard to remove so you can start over.
I thought your appliance comment was interesting. I sprayed some of that stuff on our old kitchen aid microwave. The finish was niice and seemed to stick. Wife replaced with new appliances a short time later, but trim pieces sat in yard for a very long time (poa anger inserted). Anyway, I saw surprised how shiny the paint was when I hauled off looked good as new after months of sitting outside. Made me think I should have kept in the kitchen.
I like spray-on/rattle-can bedliner made by Rustoleum or Duplicolor (can't remember which brand, but i think both make this stuff) for spraying things that you may need to stand on with wet shoes. i've sprayed sliders, bumpers, motorcycles, plastic, sculptures, and lots of other stuff and it seems to hold up pretty darn well. if you need a respray, wipe and hose it off, let it dry, respray. although not as gritty as traditional bedliner (more like skateboard grip tape) the gritty texture is nice because it hides a lot of flaws. it's quite easy to get runs with it though because these cans tend to have lots of pressure inside to shoot out the grit, but you can just take a paper towel and soak up the "liquid paint", leaving the grit behind, and you can't really tell.
I use 99% IPA ( Isopropal Alcohol) to de-grease, mostly because we get it in 55 Gal drums at work, but also because it is fairly benign to use and relatively eco friendly which is also why we get it in 55 Gal drums at work. The local EPA hardly blinks an eye at IPA compared to most other solvents.
Well, I decided to a couple of coats of primer, then several coats of gloss black. I plan to put the hammered finish as a top coat on the sliders. Skids will just be lots of gloss black.