I have a 78 fj40 that I am stripping down. I want to get the frame powder coated. Can anyone tell me if paint is better than powder coating? Has anyone ever powder coated a body rather than paint it? Pros, cons? Appreciate any feedback!
Paint vs. powder coating
- Thread starter UNOUCME
- Start date
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SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
Definitely powder coat the frame. Looks great, no runs, much easier and cost effective. Durability-My experience, powder coating lasts about 3-5 years in direct sunlight. Base/clearcoat (high quality)much more durable lasts much longer - use for everything except frames. IMO.
Lots of info here pro con on powder coating frames. Do a search and read up!
Can't repair powder coating if you want to weld to it. I have cheap access to powder coating but am on the fence about it becasue of that fact. ie If I run my mini truck PS and decide I want sag down the road..frame is screwed.
I agree. Paint is better than powder for a frame or anything that will see the elements. I have HiLifted off of my pc'ed winch mount, knowing full well the repurcusssions. Once that eggshell cracks, thats it. The metal beneath pitted, lifted and rusted. If it were painted its an easy sand and spray, even if its a gloss black.
I use the Rust Oleum Textured Black rattle can. Works really well, looks as if I powdered it, and if/when it rusts, sand, etch and spray back on.
Stick with Magnetpaints or POR for your frame, just be sure to spend a little more on prep by degreasing and etching the frame.
I use the Rust Oleum Textured Black rattle can. Works really well, looks as if I powdered it, and if/when it rusts, sand, etch and spray back on.
Stick with Magnetpaints or POR for your frame, just be sure to spend a little more on prep by degreasing and etching the frame.
I had my frame hot-dipped galvanized. I didn't see any other way of making completly sure every little nook and cranny was covered/protected.
After it was galvanized I had it powder coated - only because the powder coating shop was right next door to the galvanizer and he knew how to powder coat over zinc (from what I understand it is a 'lot' different than over bare metal and not many powder coaters know the difference - especially if the parts were "quenched" by the galvanizer).
The powder coating is probably less durable than some type of paint, but if it gets scratched the glavanizing still protects the frame.
I was going to POR15 the frame after it was dipped, but I decided I didn't want to spend 3-4 weekends painting.
As for powder coating sheet metal body parts - the same powder coater I use had some parts from a '40 Ford that were primer coated cooling off when I was there. They looked great - I wouldn't hesitate to prime with powder coating, but its definitely not a finish coating for body parts (although I am (finish) powder coating some minor sheet metal parts such as the fuel-filler cover.)
After it was galvanized I had it powder coated - only because the powder coating shop was right next door to the galvanizer and he knew how to powder coat over zinc (from what I understand it is a 'lot' different than over bare metal and not many powder coaters know the difference - especially if the parts were "quenched" by the galvanizer).
The powder coating is probably less durable than some type of paint, but if it gets scratched the glavanizing still protects the frame.
I was going to POR15 the frame after it was dipped, but I decided I didn't want to spend 3-4 weekends painting.
As for powder coating sheet metal body parts - the same powder coater I use had some parts from a '40 Ford that were primer coated cooling off when I was there. They looked great - I wouldn't hesitate to prime with powder coating, but its definitely not a finish coating for body parts (although I am (finish) powder coating some minor sheet metal parts such as the fuel-filler cover.)
Hi yuurei,
I've look at the option of galvanizing, the guys at the shop told me there was a chance of warpage since the piece is heated up to over 700 deg. Did you have any problems with that?
I've look at the option of galvanizing, the guys at the shop told me there was a chance of warpage since the piece is heated up to over 700 deg. Did you have any problems with that?
The molten zinc is at about 825-850 degrees. This is not a problem for frames or any other heavy steel, but can cause damage to sheet metal parts. I would never galvanized (at least not hot-dip galvanize) any formed sheet metal body parts.
If you realy want to galvanized sheet metal, electrogalvanizing, where the zinc is deposited by electroplating, would be worth looking into - although I think the temperatures used are also quite high.
Hot-dip also leaves a fairly rough surface - not something suited for any more than underbody work.
As far as powder coating goes, the oven temperature is around 375-425 degrees and doesn't cause any damage to sheet metal (although I would definately have them heat it at the lowest possible setting).
Here is an article about zinc coated steels in automobile manufacturering (starting on page 196):
http://books.google.com/books?id=s0...zkniD&sig=OBUGN_50qIifdpU0cPto8I5-EeU#PPP1,M1
If you realy want to galvanized sheet metal, electrogalvanizing, where the zinc is deposited by electroplating, would be worth looking into - although I think the temperatures used are also quite high.
Hot-dip also leaves a fairly rough surface - not something suited for any more than underbody work.
As far as powder coating goes, the oven temperature is around 375-425 degrees and doesn't cause any damage to sheet metal (although I would definately have them heat it at the lowest possible setting).
Here is an article about zinc coated steels in automobile manufacturering (starting on page 196):
http://books.google.com/books?id=s0...zkniD&sig=OBUGN_50qIifdpU0cPto8I5-EeU#PPP1,M1
I too had my frame hot-dip galvanized (pics in build thread below). Like yuurei I couldn't see any other way that every little nook and crannie would get taken care of with any other method. Plus I didn't have to do any prep work and the $250 cost was far less than the time/cost I was looking at just to get it cleaned up. I painted afterwards but might have had powder coated had I known it could be done over zinc and had access to a place to do it.
As far as rust creeping under powder coating - I've seen that happen but I've also seen a lot more parts that have been scratched through the coating to bare metal (ATV frames, trailer hitch receivers, quality bumpers, etc) and the rust never migrated past the initial damage. Like all coatings, I'd guess that the quality all has to do with the initial prep work.
As far as rust creeping under powder coating - I've seen that happen but I've also seen a lot more parts that have been scratched through the coating to bare metal (ATV frames, trailer hitch receivers, quality bumpers, etc) and the rust never migrated past the initial damage. Like all coatings, I'd guess that the quality all has to do with the initial prep work.
where do i look?
just purchased my first '40... a 76
. its in great shape, but i have been entertaining the idea of 'dipping' the frame to prevent any corrosion probs. in the future. where do i go to find someone that can perform this process? also, since im new to all this i want to be sure i understood you. i dont need to have the frame sandblasted prior to 'dipping'? that would be awesome!!! any help/info is greatly appreciated.
just purchased my first '40... a 76
. its in great shape, but i have been entertaining the idea of 'dipping' the frame to prevent any corrosion probs. in the future. where do i go to find someone that can perform this process? also, since im new to all this i want to be sure i understood you. i dont need to have the frame sandblasted prior to 'dipping'? that would be awesome!!! any help/info is greatly appreciated.My frame was sandblaster prior to dipping, but I was orginally going to paint it. It also had a very nasty undercoating sprayed on it (thanks to the PO trying to hide things) and sandblasting was really the only way to get it completey off.
Prior to galvanizing the frame will be dipped in an acid bath. If the frame is pretty clean this should be enough without sandblasting. If you have places that are heavily rusted it might be enough to just spot sandblast those areas to clean them up prior to dipping. I would talk to the galvanizing company just to make sure. Nothing worse than hauling it down there and having to drag it back home because it wasn't clean enough.
I'm not sure where you're located, but I highly recommend Moore's Quality Galvanizing and Madera Powder Coating. Both in Madera just north of Fresno on Highway 99.
Galvanizing is by the pound and the frame weights about 300 pounds. I don't recall what I paid for the powder coating, but MPC told be it would be more if anyone other than Moore's would have dipped it.
Also, be sure to tell the galvanizer that you are going to powder coat the frame and not to "quench" the frame after dipping. Quenching is an oil dip after the galvanizing for cooling. You'll never be able to get the frame cleaned of the oil for powder coating (or painting for that matter) unless it is acid dipped again.
Prior to galvanizing the frame will be dipped in an acid bath. If the frame is pretty clean this should be enough without sandblasting. If you have places that are heavily rusted it might be enough to just spot sandblast those areas to clean them up prior to dipping. I would talk to the galvanizing company just to make sure. Nothing worse than hauling it down there and having to drag it back home because it wasn't clean enough.
I'm not sure where you're located, but I highly recommend Moore's Quality Galvanizing and Madera Powder Coating. Both in Madera just north of Fresno on Highway 99.
Galvanizing is by the pound and the frame weights about 300 pounds. I don't recall what I paid for the powder coating, but MPC told be it would be more if anyone other than Moore's would have dipped it.
Also, be sure to tell the galvanizer that you are going to powder coat the frame and not to "quench" the frame after dipping. Quenching is an oil dip after the galvanizing for cooling. You'll never be able to get the frame cleaned of the oil for powder coating (or painting for that matter) unless it is acid dipped again.
thanks for the info. i'm in oh., so fresno is out. ive never taken anything like this on so it seems pretty daunting to me. is it possible for me to take my 40 apart by myself... and get it back together?!?! what special tools will i need?
Galvanizers may be different but the place that did mine said don't worry about any prep. They first dipped it in the molten zinc bath to burn off any paint/crud (couldn't believe that it wouldn't somehow contaminate their bath but they said no). Then it went to the various acid prep steps (which also took off any initial zinc that adhered) and then back to the zinc.
Check out this thread wildman just Galvanized his frame
http://forum.neow.net/index.php?showtopic=61138&st=30
http://forum.neow.net/index.php?showtopic=61138&st=30
I am over in Rome, GA - where did you get your frame galvinized Waorani?
