Paint Questions? (1 Viewer)

[honk]

My problem with Omni was that it didn't cover well in a dark color and the metallics are thick. (This was a Dodge truck, not a cruiser).

With basecoat/clearcoat you've GOT to use the designed system for any hope of good and lasting results. This specifies which product at which temperatures, and is sensitive to coating thickness, called millage. It's great for shops because they can select a system and keep their onhand inventory of primers aand hardeners low but it reeally works best in high volume situations. The repair is simpler too, as described above.
For one tme use, especially home use, the enamels win hands down. If a good one is used (bite the bullet on cost!) several coats can be applied to give the rich solid color of cars of the fifties. It'll be buffable, it touches up well, and it's a lot less toxic to use (eurathanes aside).

Laquers can give the finest car finish there is but it's not appropriate for a cruiser. It's a pain in the ass to protect it from sunlight and fast changes in temperature. If not constantly attended to it'll milk under or between coats and look awful. Save laquer jobs for showcars and motorcycles not ridden much.

 

[desertdude]

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single stage PPG - Omni level - stay with the same product line for primer/reducer/thinner - save the POR-15 for the inside of the tub and floor- two coats of primer sanded finely will give you a smooth base for the color coat - three coats of color will do fine - sand lightly between coats as needed. Remember you want to wheel it so don't look to close - your paint job will turn out better than they did at the factory -