Painstakingly Slow Turbo Install (2 Viewers)

[uscmas412]

Mud,

This will be my documentation of the Wits' End Turbo Kit installation. It will be a slow process (due to my skills/time available) and hopefully this thread will help someone else along the way. If you have any recommendations or tips, please share!

Today I started unbolting the exhaust headers. Please note this step is not in the official instructions, but I wanted them removed for ceramic coating. The forward header was simple to remove, the rear is still in place due to the aft, bottom most bolt. It's a PITA to reach and remove, so I've sprayed more penetrating fluid and will re-attack tomorrow.

Pro tip, don't use a stud extractor with a cheater bar to remove stubborn studs. You'll end up with a sheared stud . I may just end up ordering new headers.

I'm pretty sure the catalytic converters are going to be impossible to separate. They appear original, so I'm going to cut the exhaust behind the second cat just to get them out of the way. The entire exhaust needs to be replaced anyway.

I'm not sure if this mount for the Y pipe was supposed to be removed, but it's disconnected now.

Up next will be ceramic coating for the headers, J-pipe, downpipe and turbo.

 

[NLXTACY]

That mount connected to the bellhousing is absolutely needed but the clamp that is attached to it can be tossed.

 

[Flank]

 

[uscmas412]

That mount connected to the bellhousing is absolutely needed but the clamp that is attached to it can be tossed.

Good to know. Any issues cutting the exhaust Behind the second cat? I envision a single cat replacement.

 

[NLXTACY]

Good to know. Any issues cutting the exhaust Behind the second cat? I envision a single cat replacement.

none I can imagine. You want a cat though, for the back pressure if for no other reason.

 

[thatcabledude]

When you get this thing on the road we need to meet up. I'd love to check it out.

Maybe line them up!

-Chris

 

[uscmas412]

Made a little more progress today. I was able to remove the last bolt holding the rear exhaust header and unbolt the exhaust behind the second cat, so no cutting was needed. Broke out the steam cleaner and ultrasonic parts cleaner to degrease the engine bay a little.

The bell housing mount for the stock Y pipe was pretty nasty, so it got a bath and a fresh coat of paint. After looking at the instructions again I see I'll have to drill a hole in it, so it will get more high-temp black paint after the drilling.

Next I installed the peace pipe and oil pressure sender, that all went together fairly easily.

I then moved to the vacuum side of the install and replaced the brake booster grommet, check valve and booster vacuum hose. Then came the air inlet fitting in the intake plenum. No problems here, all straightforward.

Moving along in the instructions, the orange/black check valve is going to be a PITA to reach. I was able to pull the old one out with a set of hose pliers, but there's no way I'm getting the new one in like that. I've also been unable to remove the lower intake support bolt. I think I'll end up removing the upper intake plenum so I can replace all the vacuum lines at once.

 

[uscmas412]

I had some time before work this afternoon and was able to remove the upper intake. Pretty straightforward minus the bolt closest to the firewall, I was only able to get a 1/4 extension through the small opening from under the engine. That plus a cheater bar and 6pt socket did the trick. There's 6 total bolts to remove and two nuts. Not all are the same length, so I did the cardboard diagram I've seen others do.

Now that I've gone this far....the lower intake is heavily covered in carbon deposits. I haven't read the directions on removal yet, but everything should be fairly accessible now. It would also be a good time to remove the injectors and have them cleaned/flow tested.

Obviously everything is readily accessible now under the upper intake. I've got a broken harness (circled below) that needs to be replaced and almost all of the hoses are brittle and need replaced. Time to track down those part numbers along with a few bolts that were nearly stripped during removal.

 

[uscmas412]

On a related note, since I have my EGR deleted and blocked off, can any of this mess be removed? @NLXTACY turbo instructions make it very clear the orange/black valve must be operational for the turbo. I need to do some more research before I drop another $500 on parts I may not need.

 

[uscmas412]

I've been researching the intake plenum (top of the clamshell) and intake manifold (bottom clamshell). I searched the FSM multiple times but could not find a process for removal of the intake manifold. Anyone have a diagram?

During my search, I found THIS THREAD regarding whether it's even worth it to remove the lower intake for cleaning purposes. That thread is a decade old, what's the current thought process?

Double posted in that thread for increased viewership.

 

[Rwhat]

The cats are not bad. You will either shear the bolt or grind off the captured nut bracket.

 

[uscmas412]

Spent most of the day working on my wife’s 3 year old GMC that has developed an A/C leak and bad taillight assembly . I’m slowly convincing her to get a Sequoia.

I did find some time to tinker, and found this orientation for the fuel return hose out of the fuel pressure regulator. It does not seem correct as it’s resting against the steering column. Anyone know the correct orientation?

Also cleaned up the MAF for s***s n giggles

 

[fjbj40]

On a related note, since I have my EGR deleted and blocked off, can any of this mess be removed? @NLXTACY turbo instructions make it very clear the orange/black valve must be operational for the turbo. I need to do some more research before I drop another $500 on parts I may not need.

If EGR is removed then you do not need the switching valve and associated vacuum lines for that under the manifold. I deleted mine when I did the EGR delete. I did however keep the valve for the carbon canister and it’s associated vacuum lines. There is a pic of it in my build thread.

 

[uscmas412]

Removed the fuel rail and injectors today. Glad I did, the exterior was nasty, especially #5 and #6. Most of the o-rings and gaskets were brittle as well. Got them packaged up and mailed for cleaning/flow testing.

I must have jostled the metal tube adjoining the PHH, I've now developed a slow coolant leak where it joins the block. I think it's time for a bypass kit.

 

[uscmas412]

I'm having trouble finding a machine shop to hot tank the intake manifolds. I tried carb cleaner on the upper intake plenum and I'm basically wasting my time. These guys seem to have a solution and I already have everything to get this done. It's a heated parts cleaner using degreaser. Basically the same thing I use from HF to clean all my small parts.

Please advise before I do something dumb.

 

[fjbj40]

I used a rim and tire cleaner, concentrated, diluted 50/50. It pretty much melted the goo out of there. Oven cleaner also works but a little harsh on aluminum. Simple green undiluted or purple power also works. the big trick is fill the laundry tub with hot water or bake the part to 200 then the goo really melts off with cleaner.

Just watched the video, that is an awesome idea!

 

[NLXTACY]

I watched a buddy use a pressure washer with SimpleGreen in the tank. Made crazy quick work of it.

 

[uscmas412]

Working on the turbo/waste gate side and confused by the instructions. What is the sintered air filter that goes into the top of the wg? I think my banjo bolt to the left of the opening is in the correct position, but the only other thing that fits in the top is another banjo bolt.

 

[NLXTACY]

Working on the turbo/waste gate side and confused by the instructions. What is the sintered air filter that goes into the top of the wg? I think my banjo bolt to the left of the opening is in the correct position, but the only other thing that fits in the top is another banjo bolt.

View attachment 2353671

View attachment 2353672

Oh ignore the sintered filter. I moved away from that. I should have updated the instructions. Just keep that banjo fitting and just add a vacuum hose to the firewall somewhere. Its a closed chamber so you aren't hurting anything nor need a filter for it. Just open air.

 

[uscmas412]

So the above picture of the wastegate with the two banjo bolts is correct?