Painless wiring

[gb043075]

My 40 has been completely gutted and the years of patch job wiring removed (i kept the connectors and switches). That being said, I have some basic questions about a painless setup. They provide a 70 amp "maxi fuse" for use with high output alternators. While I don't have a high output alternator, my thinking is it doesn't hurt to have that extra fuse / safety - am I thinking correctly?

If so, where in the attached diagram does the voltage regulator go? I think it should go between alternator and fuse block (on 915 red)?

One more thing, how do I know if my alternator is self-exciting? The painless kit provides an excitor wire and I don't know whether or not I need it?

Thanks.
View attachment Painless.pdf

 

[dgangle]

Don' take this the wrong way but these are questions you should be asking Painless.

google the terms you don't understand

 

[grant5127]

Those kits are just a universal type with GM in mind.........

You'll have to make do with what is there........

Wiring for the wiper control, hazard lites and charging system and such is left up to installer.......

The charge exciter wire supplied can be used to energize an external regulator.....

It is what you make of it.............. its not PAINLESS by any means.....

 

[ocdbeetle]

On mine.....white wire #914 comes from the painless fusebox to the "ig" connection on the VR.....then, from the "f" connection on the VR, a piece of the same white #914 wire to the "F" connection on the back of the alternator....make sure you ground the VR.....

 

[gb043075]

On mine.....white wire #914 comes from the painless fusebox to the "ig" connection on the VR.....then, from the "f" connection on the VR, a piece of the same white #914 wire to the "F" connection on the back of the alternator....make sure you ground the VR.....

Thanks for the input - Attached is the layout I am going with.

View attachment fj40 wiring dia Model (1).pdf

 

[gb043075]

On mine.....white wire #914 comes from the painless fusebox to the "ig" connection on the VR.....then, from the "f" connection on the VR, a piece of the same white #914 wire to the "F" connection on the back of the alternator....make sure you ground the VR.....

Do you have the stock wiring loom coming out of the back of alternator or did you wire the "F" and "E" directly from the back of alternator posts to VR using a slide on connectors? Did you use the "N" (is this supposed to be connected to the ground on the VR)? Picture below showing E, F, and N similar to my Alt back view.



Thanks.

 

[ocdbeetle]

I have a non original alt that just has an F and R connection (other than the battery and ground lugs)

I used a piece of the #914 wire and added connectors on each end to go to the F on the alt and the f on the VR......
I have nothing connected to the "R" terminal on the alt.....would love to know what "needs" to go there?


Layout on mine looks same as what you're using.....The "E" going from the VR to Alt might be ground?

 

[Pin_Head]

E is the ground (Earth) lug for the ground wire between the alt and VR (not a bad idea to have one). N is the neutral wire from the stator and it is used to run the idiot light (in conjunction with the VR) in FJ55s and vehicles that have a light instead of am amp meter. If you just recreate the stock wiring harness between the VR and Alt you will be OK.

 

[gb043075]

Ok, I think my previous posts speak clearly enough for my lack of mechanical / electrical skills, but I'm pretty sure smoke coming out of the Voltage Regulator is a bad thing? Suprisingly enough, she did fire up (pardon the pun) and the electrical system otherwise seems to be functioning. I have (had) it wired as shown in my diagram above. Nothing is hooked to the "N" terminal from back of alternator. I do not have a ground wire running from VR, but it is bolted to the fender and the body of VR is metal so I assumed this forms the ground? Any ideas what would cause this? I shut it down and disconnected the connection from alt to VR pretty quickly, not A LOT of smoke, but definite smoke.

 

[grant5127]

That old 30amp crap isn't worth jacking with......

Up grade to a Delco 12si or better..... your gonna need more amps in the long run......

Hell, the later 55amp Toyota would be better..... internal regulated one wire energized...........

 

[gb043075]

That old 30amp **** isn't worth jacking with......

Up grade to a Delco 12si or better..... your gonna need more amps in the long run......

Hell, the later 55amp Toyota would be better..... internal regulated one wire energized...........

Any other options besides punting (buying a different alternator)? Different / beefier regulator?

Or did I just freak out too soon (see thread below)?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/336286-overcharged-batt-smoking-voltage-regulator.html

I did not mention the battery had to be jumped due to it sitting for so long so the battery was not fully charged if that matters. Again, not a lot of smoke, but noticeable.

 

[Pin_Head]

If it smokes continuously and gets too hot to touch, then it is a problem. On the other hand, it has a wire wound resistor in the bottom of it that gets hot, so it you got your greasy hand on it, it will smoke until the junk burns off. The bottom line is does it charge or not?

 

[FineWynsFJ40]

If you put a good voltage regulator on it, it shouldn't be much more than 15V, somewhere around 14.4V is ideal. If you have a bad electromechanical regulator like I did, and connect the wire sticking out of it to the ground instead of a condenser, then you will get a good showing of smoke before it either cooks out or you shut down... Very unsettling the first time you start it up! I've got my original alternator in mine, and an electronic voltage regulator from CCOT. The 50 amp fuse has blown once in the last 5 years since I've installed the Painless kit, but my dad was driving it at the time and he didn't tell me for 3 days...

 

[gb043075]

Update: Reconnected and fired it up, no detection of smoke and it seems to be charging properly (although it's reading less than 14.4V - high 12's, low 13's). Pin Head's diagnosis appears to have been correct - dust/debris or newness burning off i guess. I appreciate the input from everyone.

 

[Pin_Head]

The output voltage will depend on the charge state of the battery. The voltage will rise as the battery is charged. The amp meter will tell you if it is charging as it will deflect to the right.