P2714 : Pressure Control Solenoid code transmission (1 Viewer)

[take123]

Hi all,

I'm about to get back from a 4000 mile road trip and toward the end I started getting CEL and the VSC lights came on as well. Autozone says it's "

P2714 Code: Pressure Control Solenoid “D” Performance / Stuck Off​

and mention I should replace the solenoid as it's stuck and at same time replace transmission oil and gasket and filter. When having the issue, the car has sluggish acceleration from a stop, like it can't latch onto first gear. Pressing gas pedal down all the way it won't accelerate properly like the engine is straining, if I let go of the gas and press it down again sometime it latches on but it definitely feels out of gear.

Sometimes the issue goes away on its own and the CEL light goes off, or sometimes it goes away if I park the car and remove the key and start her up again. And for sure the issue goes away if I unplug the battery and plug it back on, and issue goes away until I encounter another stop sign or stop at an incline. And if I reset the codes with an OBD reader issue goes away too. The clearing code removing issue 100% of time makes me feel the solenoid isn't really electrically "stuck", as if I reset the computer it starts activating the solenoid again. So maybe the CEL code purposely deactivates the usage of the solenoid... I'm thinking maybe the fluid level is too low so the solenoid can't do its job (i.e. not enough oil going in it to change the pressure, then computer flips and deactivates usage of that solenoid).

The easiest way to reproduce the issue, is go through a drive in local roads with lots of stop signs, or on a slope incline upward with stop and go.

I check some posts and they mention the fluid level was the remedy:

Need Advice on Code P2714 - Transmission Issue

Hi all, looking for advice on how to proceed. First a little backstory: Bought 2006 truck, drove maybe 100 miles before having fluids changed including a transmission service. After changing out my MAF (battery disconnected for enough time to reset everything), I let it idle for ~10 mins but...

forum.ih8mud.com

Or this Tundra guy :

Transmission thunk noise when quick stops = Low Transmission Fluid - P2714

FYI Gentlemen/Ladies, So I wanted to put this up there if someone is having this issue. I have a new to me 2006 Toyota Tundra Double cab SR5 LSD 2WD...

www.tundras.com

A little history on this 2006 with 174K miles (so no transmission fluid level dip stick). The prior owner changed the tran fluid with World Standard at the dealer at 150K, and when I got the truck at 160K it was running perfectly when I got it (so I don't think the wives tail of old car change tranny fluid = slippage is the issue). I did a drain and fill with World Standard also, as I changed the radiator and some transmission fluid leaked out, and this is when the issues started. During the change job, I didn't have a code reader so couldn't 100% sure if the fluid is at right temp when I checked the over-fill level (i.e. oil may be too hot and too much came out, my garage was 93F ambient at the time of the job). Thinking back, my garage is also at a slight hill incline, so the engine sits higher than the rear of the car, this may cause more fluid come out, leading to lower than wanted level. When I first time finished the fluid job, I notice the car had this slippage issue from a stop and go, so I added more fluid, and the issue went away. But I guess on a 4000 mile road trip it had more chances to present itself and it started showing more on mile 2000 of the trip, so I was going to do a Proper fluid level check when I get back to my garage and buy some wheel ramps to level the car and get an OBD reader to measure the trans temp when checking level.

Let me know what you guys think! Fingers cross, driving 650 miles today back home. Usually if I'm on the highway, no issues. It's only more chance of showing up mall crawling or going through red light or stop sign districts.

I was thinking to just do a proper check on the fluid level (easy job) before doing anything more extreme, like dropping the pan or replacing solenoids.

 

[2001LC]

We flush all 12 qts of ATF, as a baseline. Since we really have no idea of what been added. Dealership typical only drain and fill ~3qts. Some use Toy WS ATF others bulk. Some set level based on what came out, others set at wrong temp. The TSB from Toyota, where they stated all 04-08 underfilled, lowered the AT #1 fluid temp to 96F-115f.

You can not be sloppy with this. Vehicle must be level and must bring temp AT #1 up to 96F. You must shift through all gears as you bring temp up, just before checking level. You must have engine idling & AT in P, while checking level.

Running AT at wrong level, mixing fluid or wrong fluids is hard on them. But in most cases a proper flush resolve, most issues. One indicator of a weaken AT is how fast temp increases and how high it goes. A very good A/T with good ATF, takes longer to reach 96F and runs cooler.

 

[take123]

For those wondering I had a Toyota mechanic do the flush, and it is shifting a lot better now and smoother.

Tested it around an hour local stop and go and some hill up stop and go. Good so far.

Will drive it a while and see.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I just experienced this morning, 2006 LX, last fluid service was 30k miles 6 years ago full fluid exchange and new transmission pan gasket, AT trans pan temp was 119°F, torque converter temp was 125°F, it just limped, no CEL. I braked hard on a stoplight and when it was time for me to go it wouldn’t accelerate as it normally does. Pulled over and ran my diagnostics using my OBD Fusion WiFi app;

Turned off the engine completely, ignition on (engine off) and cleared the errors, turned it off completely again key out, then and fired up the engine and limp mode as well the the error was gone. Interesting to experience this as I am scheduled to do a full fluid exchange again in 1-2 weeks.

 

[Malleus]

Just for the sake of asking, how did you get those temperatures?

I'd double check that trouble code with the ECU. An app might lie to you, but the ECU won't. The procedure is in the service manual, which is in the Resources section for you to download. It's split into discrete sections, because it's too big to post and download in one piece.

...unless you have Techstream, then just use that.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Just for the sake of asking, how did you get those temperatures?

I'd double check that trouble code with the ECU. An app might lie to you, but the ECU won't. The procedure is in the service manual, which is in the Resources section for you to download. It's split into discrete sections, because it's too big to post and download in one piece.

...unless you have Techstream, then just use that.

I use a realtime monitoring system / diag tool on my phone called OBD Fusion that is connected thru WiFi to an OBD dongle plugged in, here is the interface.

My bad, I actually cleared that P2714 error code that came up and that fixed the limp mode.

 

[2001LC]

Strange

I too, am interested in "pan" 119f and TC 125F and what fluid (Toy WS, Mobil MV FS, Valvoline MV SF, etc) in 12 qts flush, was used.


FSM/TSB A/T #1 temp. I like to set 97F -100F. 119F A/T is low.

 

[Malleus]

I'm just curious about the torque converter temperature; I wasn't aware the A750F had a sensor there.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Yup 12 quarts of ATF WS but used more than that when I did a fluid exchange, around 16 qts if I remember it right. And yes OBD Fusion app read 119°F at the pan and 125°F at the torque converter. I will get a better measurement of the fluid when I drain the pan AT soon.

 

[2001LC]

Look for A/T #1 and A/T #2 on your app. See if they read the same as your "pan" & "TC".

It may be worth, rechecking level.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Look for A/T #1 and A/T #2 on your app. See if they read the same as your "pan" & "TC".

It may be worth, rechecking level.

They don’t read the same, the AT#2 sensor (which I renamed to Torque Converter) always read higher temps. Yeah will definitely measure up the AT fluid when I drain it.

 

[2001LC]

They don’t read the same, the AT#2 sensor (which I renamed to Torque Converter) always read higher temps. Yeah will definitely measure up the AT fluid when I drain it.

Yeah, A/T #1 reads lower than #2. A/T #2 also, raises faster when loading A/T (in D, 4, 3, 2, 1. brake held, raise RPM) and shifting through (~5> seconds in each) all gears.
But, they do equalize, when A/T at rest (in park engine idling). Which I try to get equalized, as close as practical, while checking level. I find the healthiest A/T's, are harder to get A/T fluid temp raise. One's that raise quickly, even after a full 12qt flush. Are one's, that haven't been properly maintained. Some of these temps raise so fast, hard to catch under.

BTW: I've switch from Toyota WS to Mobil multi vehicle full synthetic ATF. Which is not the same as Mobil 1, nore rated for Toyota WS ATF)

Note: Do not load A/T in R.

 

[Zuberg]

Yeah, A/T #1 reads lower than #2. A/T #2 also, raises faster when loading A/T (in D, 4, 3, 2, 1. brake held, raise RPM) and shifting through (~5> seconds in each) all gears.
But, they do equalize, when A/T at rest (in park engine idling). Which I try to get equalized, as close as practical, while checking level. I find the healthiest A/T's, are harder to get A/T fluid temp raise. One's that raise quickly, even after a full 12qt flush. Are one's, that haven't been properly maintained. Some of these temps raise so fast, hard to catch under.

BTW: I've switch from Toyota WS to Mobil multi vehicle full synthetic ATF. Which is not the same as Mobil 1, nore rated for Toyota WS ATF)

Note: Do not load A/T in R.

Good information! Curious why you've switched from Toyota WS to Mobil MV? Better value?

 

[2001LC]

Good information! Curious why you've switched from Toyota WS to Mobil MV? Better value?

Full synthetic (FS).

Which IMHO, if Toyota WS ATF was a FS, they'd charge much more per bottle. Both are made by Exxon Mobil.

Also the Mobil, can be used in the 03. Which is only one that calls for Toy IV ATF.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I have WS ATF inventory in my shelf always and it has worked well for but those are good data for Mobil MV. The only aftermarket AT fluid I’ve tried is The Motul Dex4 fully synthetic on my old 04LC 1HDFTE 5-spd, same price range and same result, something you can consider to try as well.